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-   -   framing an awning...quick question (http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/framing-awning-quick-question-5090/)

sjrhome 11-29-2006 05:59 AM

framing an awning...quick question
 
Im framing a shed roof awning coming off of the back of my house. it will extend out about 15 feet with a pitch of about 3 or 4. What sixe lumber should I use? @ x8 of 2 x 10"? This is for shade. There will never be anything built on it...Just roof and snow load.

Also, there is a concrete patio about 6" think. Can i just teco the posts onto the patio or should I pour some footings. Thanks in advance

concretemasonry 11-29-2006 08:39 AM

If you have a snow load, you have frost.

You can expect the slab to come up and down during the seasons. so getting a good attachment at the house will be difficult if you want it waterproof.

If you put a ledger on the house, take off some siding and install flashing. If not, you could have a leak into the house with moisture, rot, mold, etc.

jbob 11-29-2006 09:32 AM

Awning
 
For light to moderate snow load, 2x8 rafters on 16 inch centers
should be OK. Be sure to install at least 1 row of solid block
bridging...2 would be better with a 15 foot span.
With such a long span, I would also sheath with plywood
instead of OSB.

I would also recommend digging for some type of footing support
below the local frost line. If you don't, you risk cracking of
your patio due to frost heaves and the extra weight of the awning.

If you want your posts mounted to the patio surface for reasons
of apprearance, dig holes under the patio at the points where
you will have posts and fill with concrete.

neslaf 12-01-2006 08:38 PM

adding to the problem at hand
 
I have two additional questions but this may be a roofing question how do you seel this to keep it from leaking when adding a tin roof to brick exterior as if to add a garage flashing i am sure but, but i need more detail. thank you just, found this site, this place is great.

jbob 12-02-2006 09:33 AM

Hi,

I've done it as illustrated below

I'm not a professional roofer, so there may be an easier way.

With a 4 inch grinder I grind out the mortar of the right course
of brick about 1 inch deep. Have flashing fabricated (not very
expensive), Insert top of flashing into groove in mortar, tuck
new mortar into groove, install comp roofing. Seal top course
of roofing to flashing with NP1.

May be completely different for metal roofing, but this may
give you an idea:)

http://www.gulfmeridian.com/images/FL.gif

sjrhome 12-03-2006 06:36 AM

In your drawing, you show the flashing laying under the roofing. It should sit on top of the roofing.

jbob 12-03-2006 09:49 AM

The NP1 seals the flashing to the roofing for a better appearance.
The NP1 is so tough, it will outlast the roofing.

neslaf 12-03-2006 11:24 AM

thank you
 
i just wanted to say thank you for all of the help and information. This place is great and hope that all of your projects are full of fun but not to much excitement.


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