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Old 12-30-2007, 08:14 PM   #1
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framing ABC


i got a makita compressor and AN923 framing nailer. i hope to start framing soon (after all the concrete is done).

i have two basic questions:

1. the manual does not specify which angle of nail sets it uses and i noticed there are different angles available (e.g. 30 and 28 degree). does anyone know which one to get to save me the trouble of calling the manufacturer ?

2. i just looked at the hose that i got and the threaded metal pieces at each end are not swiveled, i.e. the whole hose turns as you screw it in. i thought that definitely should not be the case, i.e. all that should be turning is a swivel piece or an adapter. am i doing something wrong and is there an adapter i can get for both sides. the hose i am using is 3/8 x 50 good year black weather-resistant. do not tell me there isn't a swiveling solution.

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Old 12-30-2007, 08:25 PM   #2
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framing ABC


The gun I can't help you with

The hose now needs the fittings, both male and female couplers and nipples. Your local hardware store or the store you purchased the compressor and air gun should be able to set you up. HD use to sell a kit which came with a combination of fittings along with a blower and air chuck...something around $ 20.00 if I remember correctly.

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Old 12-30-2007, 08:30 PM   #3
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framing ABC


Don't know about the nailer angle, but a couple of phone call will solve that for you. As for the hose, do not screw it directly to the compressor and nail gun. Use quick disconnects (get universal, not automotive size) from big boxes or local hardware. Install a male on the nail gun (so that the gun will always be void of any pressure when disconnected), male and female on opposite ends of the hose, and a female on the air compressor.
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Old 12-30-2007, 08:32 PM   #4
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framing ABC


21 degree nails.

http://www.makita.com/menu.php?pg=product_det&tag=AN923
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Old 12-30-2007, 08:36 PM   #5
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framing ABC


is 3.5 the size most commonly used in residential framing ?
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Old 12-30-2007, 08:44 PM   #6
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framing ABC


The Makita AN923 takes a 21 degree round head nail, plastic or wire collated, it will have it somewhere in the manual or on the box it came in.

Chris is right, you need to purchase a connector kit for the hose. it will consist of the items Chris mentions and you can get the complete kit for a good price rather than try and figure out each individual piece you will need.

If you are unfamiliar with the use of a framing nailer, be careful. I've seen one or two ugly accidents involving folks who don't realize that this tool can be dangerouis in the wrong hands. Always nail away from you, stay away from edges of timber where there is a possibility of "shooting through" and when nailing, keep your hands out of range of the impact area. Try a few nails on a test piece of timber until you get the hang of it. By then you'll understand what I'm saying.

Good luck.
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Old 12-30-2007, 08:58 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amakarevic View Post
is 3.5 the size most commonly used in residential framing ?
I usually use 3 1/4" nails.
I think the most common ones for framing nailers are either 3" or 3 1/4".
3" and 3 1/4" for nailing 2X material, and 2 3/8" nails for plywood.

Last edited by pavola; 12-30-2007 at 09:15 PM.
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Old 12-30-2007, 09:22 PM   #8
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I bought a box of 3 1/4" nails one time. Every door opening that has two 2X4s nailed together and those 3 1/4 nails poked through and cut everyone's hand that came in contact with them.

All your top plates will be double 2X4 and if you shoot those nails, the tips will poke through the other side. If you do not want that, then get the 3" nails. They are more user friendly.

I've never seen 3.5" nails for framing. Other than that one time, all I've seen is 3" smooth shank nails.
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Old 12-30-2007, 09:38 PM   #9
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I use 3 1/4 cos sometimes it's the only thing I can get for the Bostitch 21 degree nailer. Have three of them, they're super reliable.
Make it a habit of pumping all my nails on an angle. Never have a problem with the nails coming through.
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Old 12-30-2007, 09:48 PM   #10
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"All your top plates will be double 2X4 and if you shoot those nails, the tips will poke through the other side. If you do not want that, then get the 3" nails. They are more user friendly."

Top plate nailing should be over the stud anyways. Makes life easier for the other trades so they're not drilling/cutting through nails when installing ductwork, drains, wiring, etc.
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Old 12-30-2007, 10:26 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pavola View Post
"All your top plates will be double 2X4 and if you shoot those nails, the tips will poke through the other side. If you do not want that, then get the 3" nails. They are more user friendly."

Top plate nailing should be over the stud anyways. Makes life easier for the other trades so they're not drilling/cutting through nails when installing ductwork, drains, wiring, etc.
Since the first plate is nailed to the studs, I've been nailing the top plate in other places. That way, I don't drive nails right on top of other nails.

And I don't have to shot my nails at an angle. Your way is better, no doubt. But I believe my method is more than enough.

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