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Old 08-16-2012, 09:04 PM   #1
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Frame this wall


I have included 3 options on how I should frame this non load bearing wall. This wall will however have multiple cabinets attached to it. They are for the back part of a bar.

1) Picture 11 shows the top of my wall (upper left)

2) Picture 12 Option A(upper right)
3) Picture 14 Option B(lower left)
4) Picture 15 Option C(lower right) and buy a 2' 6" for the top I have 2.75" extra that I would need the board to come out.

Thanks for any help you may provide.

Sincerely,
Joe
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Frame this wall-amelia-14-months-011.jpg   Frame this wall-amelia-14-months-012.jpg   Frame this wall-amelia-14-months-014.jpg   Frame this wall-amelia-14-months-015.jpg  


Last edited by altja; 08-16-2012 at 09:06 PM.
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Old 08-16-2012, 09:13 PM   #2
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Frame this wall


Those pictures are pretty use less.
Back up a little, we need to see more of that funky framing to see how to tie it all in.

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Old 08-16-2012, 09:14 PM   #3
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Frame this wall


If you can install some blocking perpendicular to the floor joists, you can put the top plate wherever you want to. If not, you can use something wider and rip it lengthwise with a saw to bring it flush.
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Old 08-16-2012, 09:43 PM   #4
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Hi, Option A , Except the wall needs to be built floor to ceiling about 1/4" to 1/2" away from the concrete wall. Blocking can be added up into the joist bay for the wall top plate to attach to. consider using a 2x6 or 2x8 for the top plate like you show with the 2x4 in the last pic and that will help for fireblocking the wall at the top plate.
Also, add plenty of studs into the wall where you have cabinets going up.
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Old 08-16-2012, 10:34 PM   #5
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If you can install some blocking perpendicular to the floor joists, you can put the top plate wherever you want to. If not, you can use something wider and rip it lengthwise with a saw to bring it flush.
I can't put blocking perpendicular as it is the last joint by the side of the house.

What about option 1 or 2 does that work instead of ripping a 2 x 6?
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Old 08-17-2012, 07:59 AM   #6
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I can't put blocking perpendicular as it is the last joint by the side of the house.

What about option 1 or 2 does that work instead of ripping a 2 x 6?

if you measure from the bottom of that last joist up 1 1/2" and add/nail a 2x4 turned up right against the joist on the wall side with the bottom edge 1 1/2" up onto the joist all the way down the joist as far as the new wall goes, this will allow you to add another flat 2x4 up against the other up right 2x that is turned sideways like a top plate and flushes out with the underside of the joist. After both of those 2x's are on there frame your wall and the top plate for the wall will have something to nail up to.
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Old 08-17-2012, 08:19 AM   #7
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What is the depth from the edge of that plate to the end of the stud you have in the picture? Can you place a 2x6 up there, and have enough meat for a 2x4 stud? I would think outside the box other than be inside.
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Old 08-17-2012, 10:35 AM   #8
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If another 2 or 3 inches could be spared into the room the wall could be framed over to the front edge of the last joist.Pop a chalk line up there and make sure the joist is straight. There will be a large air space behind the entirety of the wall and that needs to be filled for fire proofing reasons, use a 2x10 top plate and that will cover the space behind the wall. Frame the studs along the front edge of the 2x10 top plate...

the top plate needs to be figured out first and then plumb down to figure out the bottom plate, and then fill in with suds..
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Old 08-17-2012, 03:03 PM   #9
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Boy Hand drive, talk about taking the hard way of doing something simple.
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Old 08-17-2012, 09:24 PM   #10
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Boy Hand drive, talk about taking the hard way of doing something simple.

What would you plan to nail the wall top plate to?
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Old 08-17-2012, 09:35 PM   #11
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Old 08-17-2012, 11:30 PM   #12
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I stopped at suds. Made me thirsty. Lol
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Old 08-18-2012, 09:26 AM   #13
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What would you plan to nail the wall top plate to?
Blocks laid between the joists, or Cripples, then toenail for further support. Then attach the wall to the floor. It is not a structural member, meant to be load supporting. Again, you have to think out of the box when doing this stuff.
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Old 08-18-2012, 01:08 PM   #14
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Blocks laid between the joists, or Cripples, then toenail for further support. Then attach the wall to the floor. It is not a structural member, meant to be load supporting. Again, you have to think out of the box when doing this stuff.

that is one way.As opposed to multiple blocks would it not be easier to just put one 2x10 up there that nails to the underside of the joist, sits on the cement foundation, and butts against the foundation sill plate. This seals the space behind the wall also so fire will not spread if there ever was one. Much faster than blocking and then fireblocking everything after the wall is built.

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