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Old 01-04-2011, 11:56 AM   #16
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Frame over blanket insulation?


Not a problem! I know what it tastes like too.....
I was shocked when doing the research on low density f.g. I didn't know about the testing until a few years ago. Not many people know about the convective loops as most sites state it but the gravity of it all doesn't jump at you. I think I may need to change my "How to" title as only a few have read it.

I'm starting another different one on sheathing that is just as interesting......

p.s. Been there, done that, will again.

Gary

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Old 01-04-2011, 03:02 PM   #17
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Frame over blanket insulation?


I have had nightmares about convective loops in my walls. But, it keeps my Exxon stocks moving along.... j
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Old 03-02-2011, 03:14 PM   #18
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Frame over blanket insulation?


It's obvious you guys know your stuff - but I'm getting lost. So, rip out the blanket insulation, put the foam against the exterior walls, frame to it and then put the fiberglass between the studs?

I need a newbie newbie forum.

Ben
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Old 03-02-2011, 09:35 PM   #19
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Frame over blanket insulation?


That'll work, but I would chit can the fiberglass and use rock wool or wool batts, as they are apparently much less susceptible to vapor, and they are better insulation. 1 or 2" of foam, and no vapor barrier. That is my take on the deal. Have a good one. j
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Old 03-03-2011, 09:12 AM   #20
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Frame over blanket insulation?


Thanks -

Just when I think I have a handle on it, someone at home depot or lowes asks me about what I am using for a vapor barrier -- I then start to think that I have missed something and read the threads again!
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Old 03-03-2011, 09:34 AM   #21
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Frame over blanket insulation?


Jklingel,
How do you have 13" of FG in your WALLS?
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Old 03-03-2011, 10:15 AM   #22
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Frame over blanket insulation?


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Jklingel,
How do you have 13" of FG in your WALLS?
sounds like an envelope house with dbl exterior walls
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Old 03-03-2011, 11:57 AM   #23
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Frame over blanket insulation?


what does it mean when it says to install a capillary break on top of the footing between the footing and perimeter foundation? When it is not new construction but simply finishing a basement, what can you do to prevent that rising damp or the effects of it?

also, their diagram shows optimal insulation in new construction having rigid foam below the concrete slab floor. Again, with finishing, do you all advise rigid foam on top of the slab (even one that has a good finish that needs no leveling, etc.)?

Great article.
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Old 03-03-2011, 12:33 PM   #24
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Frame over blanket insulation?


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Jklingel,
How do you have 13" of FG in your WALLS?
I built a 2x6 wall, 12" OC and made a ram for my loader; jammed it right in. Kidding. It is, as mentioned, a double 2x4 wall, in between which I stacked 5.5" batts like hay bales. It was a bit tedious, but it works OK. With two of us in 2400 sf, we average about 750 gallons of fuel a year. My new house will have 19" of dense packed cellulose in the walls. I had planned on only 17 1/2" but when I moved the slab down flush w/ the top of the ICF foundation wall (thermal break) I then moved the wall to cover the foam on the top ICF cord. Thus, 19". I refuse to touch FG insulation again; I hate the stuff. In its defense as an insulation, I have heard that newer stuff is a tad more dense than before, so it has improved; but still not the greatest insulation.
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Old 03-03-2011, 12:46 PM   #25
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what does it mean when it says to install a capillary break on top of the footing between the footing and perimeter foundation? When it is not new construction but simply finishing a basement, what can you do to prevent that rising damp or the effects of it?

also, their diagram shows optimal insulation in new construction having rigid foam below the concrete slab floor. Again, with finishing, do you all advise rigid foam on top of the slab (even one that has a good finish that needs no leveling, etc.)?

Great article.
A capillary break is an EPDM gasket, or such, or DryLok paint. On an old slab that does not have a vapor barrier underneath it, I have not heard of a great solution. Whatever you do on top to stop the wicking will leave the slab wet. All I can think of is to take the whole thing out and re-do it; not a great choice, either. As for insulating now, I think you'd be OK w/ rigid foam and all-weather wood framing, (a couple options there) but it better be vapor open on top (no vinyl flooring, etc) so it can dry. That is assuming that you have a relatively dry basement. But, this is only a guess on my part.
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Old 03-03-2011, 12:54 PM   #26
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Frame over blanket insulation?


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It's obvious you guys know your stuff - but I'm getting lost. So, rip out the blanket insulation, put the foam against the exterior walls, frame to it and then put the fiberglass between the studs?

I need a newbie newbie forum.

Ben

Lets get down to some further details here. Yes, rip it all out. When you place your foam board (assume 2" thick here), you will glue it to the walls. Use the right glue and do a good job of applying the glue. You may have to fasten them to the walls as well but that will have to be your call depending on wall configuration. In between the panels, you will want to caulk or spray foam or tape joints. Now if the joints from each side of the foam panels fit together tight, you might be bale to leave out the caulk/spray foam but you should still tape ALL seams. You are looking to make it airtight as possible. If you need to caulk, do it. 2" foam gives you a vapor barrier. No need for any more poly.

As for the floor, if you have the head space, putting down a 1" of XPS foam and then 5/8" or 3/4" T-n-G plywood is one method. You lose a little less than 2" of headspace this way. If you have the space, great. If you are going to do this, do the floor first then the walls. You will end up screwing the plywood-XPS sandwich to the floor with tapcons or similar. Don't need to glue XPS to the floor. If you do the floor first, then the walls, when you frame in the walls, the bottom plate will then go on top of the floor plywood directly. With a fastener, you will need to go through the bottom plate>plywood>foam>concrete.

Overall you are making a 5 sided pink or blue foam box. You need to make it tight as possible. It is not a cheap method. I would also recommend going over to youtube (if you can watch videos w/o a problem) and search on "holmes on homes basment" or something like that . He demonstrates the method and seeing it done is good.

New construction may put XPS under the concrete. Unless you are willing to rip the floor up, put it on top.

If you add more insulation between studs, others said to use roxul. That is good.
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Old 03-04-2011, 12:26 PM   #27
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With two of us in 2400 sf, we average about 750 gallons of fuel a year.
Wow...only 750 gals for a year is great.
How is the weather in Hawaii this time of year!

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