Flashing/sheathing for new const. window in siding that will be redone in stucco

tsaign · 09-17-2011, 01:00 PM

Have an issue with termite damage, I am repairing the damage, and installing a new window. Pella Thermstar 6x5 slider.
Currently the siding was plywood, but will be stucco.
House was built in 1986 area is San Diego, CA.

Question(s) regarding sheathing/flashing.
Originally just paper/taped very few places.

Should I cover with wood?
Should I use paper or plastic house wrap, tape, or peel & stick?

If it's recommended to use wood sheathing can I use 7/16 OSB, or should I stick with 11/32 plywood like it had on there?

I'd much rather use paper since I'm not sold on plastic housewrap seeing what UV does to the stuff.
Not to mention the cost difference.

Here's a pic of what I'm dealing with...

Ron6519 · 09-17-2011, 01:25 PM

I'd use what was there originally and matches the rest of the house.

tsaign · 09-17-2011, 02:17 PM

This is the only spot on the house that has wood siding.

Never really liked it, and it needs to be replaced in some areas already.

Ron6519 · 09-17-2011, 02:51 PM

If you're going with stucco, I'd use 3/4" ply, 30lb tarpaper and galvanized wire lath.

tsaign · 09-17-2011, 08:52 PM

Would OSB 7/16" be acceptable? 3/4" plywood is ~$50/sheet.

OSB is ~$8/sheet.

Cost is a concern here, we have no money.

Ron6519 · 09-17-2011, 10:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tsaign

Would OSB 7/16" be acceptable? 3/4" plywood is ~$50/sheet.

OSB is ~$8/sheet.

Cost is a concern here, we have no money.

Personally think OSB is crap and I wouldn't build a dog house out of it. Professionally, I don't think 1/2" of anything should be a substrate for stucco.

AndyGump · 09-17-2011, 10:48 PM

Generally speaking, here in So Cal. their doesn't need to be a substrate for stucco, might be a good idea though if you are going to do the stucco yourself.
If the ply is really siding and not shear (and I see a let-in brace in your picture that is probably the shear) you need to use two layers of grade "D" paper then put your wire lathe nailed to the framing.
You will also need weep-screed, min. 2" above a slab or 6" above earth.
Stucco is a real bear to do and do it well. Three part stucco is a scratch coat about 1/2" to 5/8" thick, then the second or 'brown' coat is about 1/4" -3/8" thick then your finish coat with the texture.
I say again VERY difficult to do correctly
Looks like there is stucco on the second floor too. You should tie the lathe to the existing lathe of the second floor and don't stucco to straight lines of existing stucco.

There are other considerations but too long to go into here.

Andy.

tsaign · 09-17-2011, 10:52 PM

We get almost no rain here, so water really isn't an issue.
Your profile lists NY as a location.
You've got snow/rain/freezing temps, etc. to deal with.
We have none of that here.

The house was/is just paper + stucco and it's doing just fine for 25 years.
No stucco issues anywhere on the house and there is nothing but paper behind it.

Yes OSB is cheap, but plywood doesn't hold up any better than it from what I've seen.
UV degrades plywood pretty badly it gets brittle as ****.
OSB holds up better to UV than normal plywood IMHO, doesn't get as brittle.

Water is another story...but we don't see much of that here.

tsaign · 09-17-2011, 10:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AndyGump

Generally speaking, here in So Cal. their doesn't need to be a substrate for stucco, might be a good idea though if you are going to do the stucco yourself.
If the ply is really siding and not shear (and I see a let-in brace in your picture that is probably the shear) you need to use two layers of grade "D" paper then put your wire lathe nailed to the framing.
You will also need weep-screed, min. 2" above a slab or 6" above earth.
Stucco is a real bear to do and do it well. Three part stucco is a scratch coat about 1/2" to 5/8" thick, then the second or 'brown' coat is about 1/4" -3/8" thick then your finish coat with the texture.
I say again VERY difficult to do correctly
Looks like there is stucco on the second floor too. You should tie the lathe to the existing lathe of the second floor and don't stucco to straight lines of existing stucco.

There are other considerations but too long to go into here.

Andy.

I'm all ears...feel free to PM me for an email address/phone number.
I don't plan on doing the stucco, just everything in preparation for it.
My main concern is the sheathing/flashing/window install.
No second floor, single story house.
Plan was to chip up/bust up the straight line where the wood was.
From what I've read, a jagged edge is easier to blend than a straight edge.

Ron6519 · 09-17-2011, 10:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tsaign

The house was/is just paper + stucco and it's doing just fine for 25 years.
No stucco issues anywhere on the house and there is nothing but paper behind it.

Stucco is not applied to "just" paper, even in California.
Listen to other opinions. I'm sure there will be a few coming along.

tsaign · 09-17-2011, 11:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ron6519

Stucco is not applied to "just" paper, even in California.
Listen to other opinions. I'm sure there will be a few coming along.

Yes I understand there is wire mesh under there too...

My main questions from original post still stand.
Cover studs with OSB, then paper.
-(Stay away from tyvek or similar plastic wraps?)
Flashing...paper + stick & peel okay for new window?

tsaign · 09-17-2011, 11:22 PM

No more daylight but it looks like this now...
Not as much as I wanted to get done, but such is life...
New hangar on header, rough opening enlarged from 71.5"x59" > 72.25"x60"
No more termite chewed to hell wood...YAY!

AndyGump · 09-17-2011, 11:36 PM

Header is not to code, cripple studs not spaced at 16" O.C. the hanger for the header may or may not be right.

Permits?

Andy.

tsaign · 09-18-2011, 12:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AndyGump

Header is not to code, cripple studs not spaced at 16" O.C. the hanger for the header may or may not be right.

Permits?

Andy.

'

Header is unchanged from original.
Cripple studs replaced per what was there originally as well.
Hanger was added because there wasn't one there, just a flat plate tied/nailed to 2x4 stud I had to replace.

Pic(s) of the wall before I removed/replaced stud/sill/hanger/cripple studs.

Several issues with the wall when the house was built.
Wood that wasn't even nailed together just hang in' around.
Wall always seemed "loose" to me, but when I'm done @ least everything will be nailed together.

Permit will be pulled next week. Was going to get one last week, but the 11/mo. old baby was not cooperating.

AndyGump · 09-18-2011, 12:25 AM

You are dong a significant repair/change to the wall, they will want it brought up to code so the header is under-sized, prescriptive code calls for the header to be bearing on a trimmer, cripples aren't that big a deal but they may want to see them on 16"s.
Permit for electrical required, plan of the framing showing cross section of wall with header, stucco, paper, insulation, etc.

CF-1R for the new window, prescriptive only no computer generated output, MF-1R attached to the plans.

I am just letting you know what you could expect from the Building Department. I do this for a living here in California so I am pretty confidant that they will ask for all this and more.

Andy.