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Old 03-29-2012, 12:15 PM   #1
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Fixing covered porch framing


Good afternoon everyone,

It's been awhile but I am working on my next major house project. As is usual, I am spending 90% of my time and money correcting the horrible mistakes of the original owner. This project is taking my enclosed, covered porch into a covered concrete patio. Below is a picture of the before:



Here is mid-demo:



Couple of discoveries of interest:
1) Three of the four posts are destroyed by termites and not supporting the roof.
2) The wall on the left facing out and the wall on the far side were added when the porch was enclosed. The wall on the far side isn't even on the slab. It was poured on the dirt. It will fall over with a light push.
3) The consists of 2x6's attached to the house. Here is where it gets interesting...The 2x6's attach to a 2x6 "header". This header isn't doubled up and vertical. It's laying flat with 3"x4" "posts".
4) The ceiling and included mini attic is nothing more than 2x4x10's with plywood on top and sheet metal ceiling.

Here is my plan:
1) Remove wall facing back yard and far wall.
2) Remove ceiling
3) Hire contractor to replace posts with 4x4's holding up 2x8 header under existing flat header .
4) Cover retaining wall with stone veneer.

I know this isn't the best solution. Realistically I should pull the whole thing down and start over. That just isn't possible so I gotta do the best thing possible.

Thoughts?

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Old 03-29-2012, 04:24 PM   #2
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Fixing covered porch framing


I assume you are keeping the slab? If so you should put in new footings for each post, i.e sono tube and plastic footing forms 4 feet deep, unless you hit ledge. You can use an engineered lumber header, say a 3 1/2'' X 7 1/4" in one piece. It is heavy but much stronger than one in sections of the same size. You should keep post spacing under 8 feet. The less span the better. Check your local lumber yard. They can help with span calculations from manufacturers books. If replacing the slab, cut the footing forms flush with the ground, form around them and pour both slab and footings at once. You don't pay for a small load fee for the concrete that way.

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Old 04-01-2012, 12:00 PM   #3
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Fixing covered porch framing


Update on this project:

Demo is done. I was happy to discover the slab is 8"+ thick with footers where the posts were. I've already jacked up the roof to nearly level. I jacked it up where I could put paired 2x4x8s in place of the non-existent beams. From the ground to the bottom of the "header" is 97". I plan on nailing down the metal brackets for PT 4x4s. I'll put 2x6 headers on top of that with a bracket.

Here are some pictures of the post-demo porch.



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Old 04-01-2012, 04:16 PM   #4
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Fixing covered porch framing


Your next move should be getting that thing braced up before it kills someone.
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Old 04-02-2012, 06:42 AM   #5
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Fixing covered porch framing


As a remodeler in an area that requires permits even to change your mind......is there one??? Was the old porch built under permit?? Many say, I don't need no stinking permit, just government intrusion. Not quite true. The permit requires inspections to prove that it meets certain minimum code, which means it is safe for people to work/play under.
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Old 04-02-2012, 07:24 AM   #6
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Fixing covered porch framing


Bill, I don't live far from you. I did not get a permit before starting because the initial project was simply to remove the cinder block and windows. The roof and posts were original with the house. The original owner added the rest. After discovering the posts were destroyed I did what was necessary to secure the structure. I will be calling the township L&I today as I have secured permits for all of my previous major projects. I always pass with flying colors.
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Old 04-05-2012, 06:58 PM   #7
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Fixing covered porch framing


The framing is done. Here is what I did...Drilled into the concrete to into 1" standoff with 5" bolt. Posts are 4x4 PT. Headers are 4x6. Bolted existing header and framing using 5"x1/2" hex bolts. Will also add joist hangers on both sides of the joists this weekend. The roof was so bowed that it took some work to actually get it to settle down. When I had the header leveled and secured the outsides of the old framing was 1-2" higher. I pulled them down using clamped and bolted them in place.

I realize the perfect solution would have been to demo the entire roof and start over. The reality is that I don't have thousands of dollars laying around to do so. I made a decision based on what I have to work with. I made it as safe and solid as I know how. Last week I would shake the posts and the entire structure would wobble. When I did that tonight it didn't move...at all.

Now on to figuring out the siding situation to tie this all together.





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