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Fix or Replace Porch Concrete Slab

14K views 10 replies 5 participants last post by  Majoram 
#1 ·
Hello,

I can't seem to get a straight answer on this, so I'm hoping someone here can help me.

My porch is a concrete slab that sits over my cold room.
It sits on a wood frame.
The cold room has about 1 foot of it above ground.

The slab has a crack in one corner.
Moisture also soaks into the top 3 to 4 inches or so of the cold room wall that is just below the slab.

So I'm wondering what to do.
Can I fix this? Or should I hire a contractor to completely replace it?

Here are the options I've been advised on so far:
- Replace the entire slab
- Cap the slab with a 1 inch layer or so of concrete. My uncle (civil engineer) recommended using SikaSeal brand concrete but said I would need to find the right type.
- Contractor suggested completely sealing the slab and any part of the cold room that is above ground with NuCrete.
Added bonus is that they can stamped it to our preferred style.

Below are pictures of the:
- Crack in the slab (2)
- Portion of the cold room that is above ground (2)
- Soaked wood frame below the slab (2)

Thanks for any help anyone can give with this.










 
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#2 ·
Chip out the top edges of the crack, caulk w/urethane caulk. There is even a flowing urethane caulk that will fill all gaps. It will allow movement along the crack and not harden. Simple, inexpensive.

I would keep an eye on the wood supporting structure. If it has been damp, watch out for rot. It would not hurt to spray it with a preservative.

That is obviously and older house, and replacing the slab would be expen$ive, tyr the easy way first.
 
#3 ·
Thanks for replying.

Ok on the urethane caulk. Also I think I remember someone saying to use an epoxy as well.

That only takes care of the crack though.

1) What about the sides? Water still comes through there somehow.
Basically the area between the slab and the foundation is the problem (where the wood frame rests).

When wet in some places, the mortar?! is firm but it rubs off easily using my fingers.

2) Also I don't know how to tell if the wood is still good or not.
When wet it's a bit soft but that is only on the ends of 2 or 3 of the beams?!

Sorry if I am getting some of the terminology mixed up. Hope my meaning comes across clearly though.

Thanks again!
 
#5 ·
Just an FYI for anyone wondering how this turns out.

I think I'm just going to get it "sealed" up.

The crack I can handle on my own.
But it's not just the crack. The sides have water coming in as well.

A contractor has offered to seal the top and the sides with NuCrete.
I assume it's this stuff: http://www.sonomastone.com/stoneinfo/nucrete.html

This will seal it and also be aesthetically pleasing. Added "curb" appeal and home value.

The damage for this though is about $1600.
Any thoughts?
 
#6 ·
It would seem to me that the corner where a stair post or other support is screwed into is cracked all the way through. I don't see what miracle coating (Nucrete) he is going to apply that will fix this. It will crack again IMO. Nucrete seems to be a concrete-based product and will likely perform like concrete in not expanding and contracting well, be exposed to freeze-thaw cycles, and crack again. Ask your contractor about how he sees this coating preventing future cracking. $1600 is a bunch to end up where you started.
 
#8 ·
fixing cracks in concrete is nearly impossible. if concrete wants to move, its gonna move. at this area where the crack is at, what is that post supporting? the wood below looks as it will need to be addressed also. sealing up the cracks with something like Sikaflex will help prevent future water from doing more damage but i feel this will that the structual issues will only get worse over time.
 
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