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Old 03-28-2010, 11:37 AM   #16
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first deck build...need some help


you can definately build onto of the concrete by laying down sleepers as the substructure. Is the concrete sloped at all? if so you want to put the sleepers in that direction so water drains from underneath the deck properly. Idealy you want the sleepers (joists) running away from the house since decking looks much better if its running parallel to the house. How far is the door threshold off the concrete? what decking materlial were you thinking of using.

To do Sleepers An easy way that I dd this is I bolted 2X4s PTE flat on the concrete using Galvinized 3/8" redheads and then screwed 2x4s PTE or in your case 2x6s to the 2x4s. I also glued the sleeper to concrete and 2x4s. Before I put decking on I coverd the whole assembly with *****ethane flashing to waterproof it even more. My Patio was sloped so I had to cut my sleepers to get the deck level. this was the hardest thing to do and takes a little practice.

Another thing you can do is use slate tile or something to cover the patio. Slate is not that expensive and probably won't cost or take you any more time than a deck.
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Old 03-28-2010, 11:40 AM   #17
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Oh another solution instead of bolting 2x4s down is to fasten them with concrete nails. You can see from the picture above I had some issues synch the nails all the way in even on highest charges so I stuck with redheads. I have done on a previous deck with no problems and its a lot faster.
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Old 03-28-2010, 04:44 PM   #18
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At count 1:25 he says:
"with the joist hangars in place we're ready to assemble all the pieces and nail them after . . . " then they pick up their piece and just rest it on top of the supports without attaching it at this point.
It looks like they're trying to fit a bracket onto the support, but they're just balancing it on the edge. (at least that's what it looks like)

It doesn't look like there is a bracket on top of the support and under the deck rail - but there should be (maybe a true floating deck doesn't have them, but that makes no sense in a place like florida with hurricane force winds) - So the best bet is that there is a cap-bracket on top of the support which attaches to the underside of the top joist. . . it would look just like the bracket that attaches the support to the slab itself.
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Old 03-28-2010, 08:20 PM   #19
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first deck build...need some help


what is the best type of connector to use for the post to concrete connection? planning on doing a design similar to the one in the video, no connection to house.


strong tie connector (is this ok?)

Last edited by joetab24; 03-29-2010 at 08:31 AM.
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Old 03-28-2010, 08:43 PM   #20
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ok here's a design i'd like to try.....but I need to get this on paper.......need some help


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Old 03-29-2010, 07:52 AM   #21
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http://www.strongtie.com/deckcenter/...ource=category

Under the category listed as "Beam to Post" there are a variety of brackets that are called "caps" - these are for the top of vertical supports. Choose it based on the support size and the beam size, as well as the location of the bracket (inside/outside - where exactly does it need to support the beam overtop, center or off-center, etc).

I built our deck without base or cap brackets - the only brackets I used were joist hangars. I used 5x5's for the posts and the beams hang on the side of the posts with lag bolts. My design, however, exceeded code (which isn't strict around here) - but I know that if I lived elsewhere I'd be required to use the brackets, which would have been no big deal to purchase anywhere and install (and can be installed in the future if things change)

You don't have to be classic with your deck, either, if you're designing your own you can be as creative as you want and personalize it for your needs.
I refused to just build a box deck. Several reasons - for one, our yard is huge and a box deck looked good on paper but really was tiny in comparison. I needed to bring it into the yard but was limited by my budget. I, also, didn't want much of the deck to be near the house - I've yet to install gutters and always thought it dumb to have a deck next to a wall which would detour that area from being used - such as when it rains or when hornets decide to invade the soffets, etc. I, also, didn't want kids all up in "my space" when I'm outside tanning and so on.
To solve these things I designed it with a bridge from the doorway that extends out and away from the house - with a step down to a larger deck for chair-lounging and at the other side is a step-up medium sized deck for adults-only.
There is an alcove dirt area next to the house and I've turned that into a smoke-corner for our grill and so forth, complete with a wind shield and overhang.

Now - back to your deck picture.
There are several things I see that you need to keep in mind and consider. #1 - in the photo the deck boards (which are called 5-quarter or 5/4 board) are on an angle and the angle turns the other direction in the middle.

This means that their joists probably run in direction of the door to the step. There is also a beam running left-right in center (which is likely supported in the center with a support post) so the diagonal beams can be supported at the inside where direction changes.

They likely used traditional step-forms that are pre-cut and then just nicely boxed off the steps to conceal it.

The upper deck overhangs on the front (this is called cantilever) - however, it's not a true cantilever because they have installed supports from the lower portion of the deck/step to the upper deck. You don't need this. If you double your beam that extends out past your post you can properly cantilever your deck (how much depends on the size post/beam used)

Hope that helps some - I'm out of time Good luck, read up on decking and crunch some numbers. Sketch out some ideas on paper.
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Old 03-30-2010, 11:10 AM   #22
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trying to get the space and my ideas on paper

noticed a typo i meant 16'9" (not 16 X 9)





after watching the bob villa video above, i put together this drawing, showing the connection to the concrete.

in the video, it looks like he built a frame using 2 X 6s, attached joist hangers to the rim joists and ran them across. there was a beam in the center (a girder?) to prevent the joists from sagging. can i run 2 X 6 joists 16' 9". I've never worked with wood of this size.

I have about 10" from the slab to my door. The drawing above takes me to 9 3/8 (3 1/8 + 5 1/ 2 + 3/4 for decking)


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Old 03-30-2010, 11:48 AM   #23
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Don't mean to butt in, but need more info. Where are you located and what is the frost depth? How thick is the slab and does it have a suitable foundation? Is the vinyl sided bump out an add on or part of the original house (foundation)?
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Old 03-30-2010, 12:04 PM   #24
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please butt in

I am in SE PA

not sure of frost depth...

the slab measures 16" from the ground

i am not certain the slab has a foundation...when i examine it, the larger portion seems to be "sitting on" a slightly smaller section. is there anything else i can look for?

the part of the addition where the windows are is original...from the door to the left (you can see a different roof) is newer.
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Old 03-30-2010, 01:58 PM   #25
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My concern is that both parts are just on slabs and will move independently with frost. This could ruin your new wooden deck or house. Can you check if there is a record of previous permits or inspections?

I'd seriously consider demo the slab and start from scratch.
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Old 03-30-2010, 02:19 PM   #26
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first deck build...need some help


Hey Joetab,

Have you checked with your city (or county) to see if there are permits required and/or codes. I know a free standing deck (ie not attached to the house) in my area as long as it is less than 1 feet off the ground require no permits.
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Old 03-30-2010, 02:37 PM   #27
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4747

i know the patio was built in '93....it has held up very well. no permits are on record for the work, although I happen to know the person who did the job. He actually lived in my home before the previous owner. He did my front porch concrete work.


I guess I can call him. What should I ask him?
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Old 03-30-2010, 05:50 PM   #28
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In my State a deck that low to the ground is considered landscaping and not a structure, no permit is required.
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Old 03-30-2010, 06:02 PM   #29
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i called today to check...haven't gotten in touch with anyone.
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Old 03-30-2010, 08:07 PM   #30
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here's another drawing, a bit crude. but good practice for me, as i think about the project. this is a for a basic deck, all straight lines. if i am going to do something more than that i need to figure out the basic design first. thanks for the help


SEE REVISED BELOW

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