Go Back   DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum > Home Improvement > Building & Construction

CLICK HERE AND JOIN OUR COMMUNITY TODAY...IT'S FREE!

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 02-24-2013, 05:05 AM   #1
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Toledo, OH
Posts: 205
Rewards Points: 0
Share |
Exclamation

Finishing my Basement Advice


1. What is the proper spacing of nails when attaching the bottom stud plate to the concrete floor?

2. Since I'm using PT studs for the bottom plates do I still need to put a visqueen barrier or sill foam between them and the concrete floor?

3. What is the best way to frame a single door in a double wall assembly?

4. I'm planning on putting down rubber floor tiles directly on the concrete http://www.allmats.com/site/439205/page/1423635 , should I seal the bare concrete with an epoxy first? Will this work as a vapor barrier/moisture barrier? Will the rubber have any insulation value aka keep the floor from feeling like you're walking barefoot on an ice rink ;-p

5. Should I include washers with my Ramset Nailers? And what size should they be? 2 1/2" good to get a nice hold in the concrete?

Thank you.


Last edited by Mijotter; 02-24-2013 at 05:17 AM.
Mijotter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-2013, 05:23 AM   #2
DIY staff
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Kane county,Illinois
Posts: 21,633
Rewards Points: 22
Default

Finishing my Basement Advice


Nail the bottom plate to the concrete--about 32 inch spacing---a foam sill sealer under the bottom plate is a good practice--it will act as a capilary break if the concrete is ever damp===I don't believe it is a code requirement--

Gary is very good with these details---if he chimes in--pay attention to him.

Check with the rubber tile maker for their recommendation----I wish you were close---I have cases of epoxy floor adhesive left over from a recent job----

__________________
New members: Adding your location to your profile helps in many ways.--M--
oh'mike is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-2013, 10:51 AM   #3
AHH, SPANS!!!
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Durham NC
Posts: 1,664
Rewards Points: 2
Default

Finishing my Basement Advice


Quote:
Originally Posted by Mijotter View Post
1. What is the proper spacing of nails when attaching the bottom stud plate to the concrete floor?

2. Since I'm using PT studs for the bottom plates do I still need to put a visqueen barrier or sill foam between them and the concrete floor?

3. What is the best way to frame a single door in a double wall assembly?

4. I'm planning on putting down rubber floor tiles directly on the concrete http://www.allmats.com/site/439205/page/1423635 , should I seal the bare concrete with an epoxy first? Will this work as a vapor barrier/moisture barrier? Will the rubber have any insulation value aka keep the floor from feeling like you're walking barefoot on an ice rink ;-p

5. Should I include washers with my Ramset Nailers? And what size should they be? 2 1/2" good to get a nice hold in the concrete?

Thank you.
a barrier is good practice under a wall on top of concrete, keeps drafts out and moisture. for the double wall most likely treat it as needing a door header in each wall and jacks and king studs along with the header. you could probably just use 2x8 as the king jack assembly if it is two 2x4 walls next to each other. set the door to the side that you want it to swing toward and use jamb extensions to fill the rest of the wall thickness. depending on your concrete you might have a hard time getting ram sets to work, consider tap cons instead...
hand drive is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-2013, 11:06 AM   #4
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Toledo, OH
Posts: 205
Rewards Points: 0
Default

Finishing my Basement Advice


The concrete i'm nailing it to is fairly new(in concrete age) at 7 months old since I waterproofed the basement last summer.

And i'm building a room within a room for sound isolation reasons(this is going to be my theater room). So there will be a 2 inch gap between the walls. Sorry I should have explained that originally.

Would the 2 1/2" driving nails be sufficient and should I use a washer when driving them?

Thanks so far guys.
Mijotter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-2013, 11:17 AM   #5
AHH, SPANS!!!
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Durham NC
Posts: 1,664
Rewards Points: 2
Default

Finishing my Basement Advice


I'd get a box of 2 1/2" and 2" and try the 2 1/2" first. if the 2 1/2" do work then take the 2" back to the store. if the 2 1/2" do not work then use the 2". depending on the psi of the concrete will determine how well they sink. We had a 12" slab built up in the air off the back of a house once to be based as a heat sink for the back part of the house and that concrete was the hardest stuff ever.
hand drive is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-2013, 04:43 PM   #6
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 9,968
Rewards Points: 0
Default

Finishing my Basement Advice


I followed the link and there was no reference for vapor permeability. I expect they allow some moisture through, though hard to say how much without an IECC paper on them. I would not use adhesive until a heating/cooling season to watch for mold/mildew/moisture under them. A lot will depend on if there is a vapor barrier plastic installed under your new slab, or not. That will limit the moisture but do nothing for insulating or keeping the floor surface warm enough to prevent summertime condensation on the slab/mat interface. You need to take into consideration the sub-surface water temps as well. http://www.epa.gov/athens/learn2mode...enrys_map.html The deeper the slab, the warmer the temps. I think the pay-back of R-2.5 (1/2" XPS) seems reasonable as you would be retarding the moisture, insulating against interior condensation, and keeping your bare feet warmer. Depends on moisture content of the soil under the slab for the amount of capillary draw, as well. (Unless a poly is present). Use 1/2 XPS (with beads of caulking against air movement-one each side of f.b.) under ALL the walls as well- to prevent them from becoming "heat sinks" coupled directly to the earth through the slab.Thermal/air barrier in continuity; http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/ic...002_par021.htm

And: http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/ic...002_par022.htm

Gary
__________________
If any ads are present in my answer above, I do not condone/support/use the product or services listed, they are there against my permission.
Gary in WA is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-2013, 11:12 PM   #7
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Toledo, OH
Posts: 205
Rewards Points: 0
Default

Finishing my Basement Advice


wow Gary that was a lot of information to take in but much appreciated as with everyone else. I don't believe there is a barrier under my slab. My house was built in 1944. I have the walls, rim joists, ceiling all taken care of properly. Unfortunately my basement ceiling isn't the tallest and i'm installing drywall on furring channels so with only the slab i'll have about 3 inches of head room(I'm 6'4"). So my options are limited as far as flooring goes, plus i'm building said theater room to resemble the inside of a submarine which is why I love the look of the "metal grate" rubber floor tiles.

So i'm guessing sealing the slab with an epoxy will have no positive benefit? I have quite the dry basement too btw.
http://menards.com/main/building-mat...718-c-5651.htm

http://www.sherwin-williams.com/home...technical-info

Last edited by Mijotter; 02-24-2013 at 11:17 PM.
Mijotter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-2013, 11:45 PM   #8
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 9,968
Rewards Points: 0
Default

Finishing my Basement Advice


The paint/mat stop water wicking but you may get condensation from moisture in the room air in the summer when the basement floor lags 2-3 weeks behind ambient air (outside surface) temps. With the slab at 50*F and room air at 70*F, the dew point would be 49%RH. With R-5 (1"XPS) you're safe up to 59%RH. Anything above that would condense on the slab/mat interface, depending on the permeability of the mat (give them a call for R-value), and temp of the slab. Try it without insulation (foamboard) or glue, and check it later. Insulation warms the flooring to stop condensation as well as convection, page #4; http://www.buildingscience.com/docum...g-your-basment
If you don't go with f.b., I hope it works for you!

Gary
__________________
If any ads are present in my answer above, I do not condone/support/use the product or services listed, they are there against my permission.
Gary in WA is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-25-2013, 10:12 PM   #9
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Toledo, OH
Posts: 205
Rewards Points: 0
Default

Finishing my Basement Advice


Ok so on a side note. I'm doing all of this for my theater room and I'm sealing off my glass block windows. I put cement board over them but the cement board is quite cold. Should I put a 1/2" layer of XPS touching the glass block THEN the cement board. 2 layers of 5/8" drywall will go over the cement board. I'm concerned with condensation on the warm side of the cement board that touches the drywall. Thanks a ton.
Mijotter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-28-2013, 06:45 PM   #10
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 9,968
Rewards Points: 0
Default

Finishing my Basement Advice


The foam board raises the dew-point temps for no/less condensation; http://www.buildingscience.com/docum...bout-diffusion

Gary

__________________
If any ads are present in my answer above, I do not condone/support/use the product or services listed, they are there against my permission.
Gary in WA is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to Gary in WA For This Useful Post:
Mijotter (02-28-2013)
Reply

Tags
concrete, frame, plate, stud, wall


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Basement Finishing, Where to start? Ceiling? swarren Remodeling 8 01-08-2012 05:27 PM
Advice about Waterproofing Basement Walls Firehawk734 Remodeling 2 12-08-2010 03:23 PM
Finishing Basement - Expanding PEX? kpfeif Plumbing 2 09-17-2009 08:08 AM
Need unbiased help on finishing basement - Dry wall or panel system? mmr1234 Building & Construction 6 08-29-2009 10:30 AM
Basement finishing order MugsynSax Building & Construction 1 08-23-2009 05:57 PM




Top of Page | View New Posts

Copyright © 2003-2014 Escalate Media. All Rights Reserved.