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Mijotter 02-24-2013 05:05 AM

Finishing my Basement Advice
 
1. What is the proper spacing of nails when attaching the bottom stud plate to the concrete floor?

2. Since I'm using PT studs for the bottom plates do I still need to put a visqueen barrier or sill foam between them and the concrete floor?

3. What is the best way to frame a single door in a double wall assembly?

4. I'm planning on putting down rubber floor tiles directly on the concrete http://www.allmats.com/site/439205/page/1423635 , should I seal the bare concrete with an epoxy first? Will this work as a vapor barrier/moisture barrier? Will the rubber have any insulation value aka keep the floor from feeling like you're walking barefoot on an ice rink ;-p

5. Should I include washers with my Ramset Nailers? And what size should they be? 2 1/2" good to get a nice hold in the concrete?

Thank you.

oh'mike 02-24-2013 05:23 AM

Nail the bottom plate to the concrete--about 32 inch spacing---a foam sill sealer under the bottom plate is a good practice--it will act as a capilary break if the concrete is ever damp===I don't believe it is a code requirement--

Gary is very good with these details---if he chimes in--pay attention to him.

Check with the rubber tile maker for their recommendation----I wish you were close---I have cases of epoxy floor adhesive left over from a recent job----

hand drive 02-24-2013 10:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mijotter (Post 1123536)
1. What is the proper spacing of nails when attaching the bottom stud plate to the concrete floor?

2. Since I'm using PT studs for the bottom plates do I still need to put a visqueen barrier or sill foam between them and the concrete floor?

3. What is the best way to frame a single door in a double wall assembly?

4. I'm planning on putting down rubber floor tiles directly on the concrete http://www.allmats.com/site/439205/page/1423635 , should I seal the bare concrete with an epoxy first? Will this work as a vapor barrier/moisture barrier? Will the rubber have any insulation value aka keep the floor from feeling like you're walking barefoot on an ice rink ;-p

5. Should I include washers with my Ramset Nailers? And what size should they be? 2 1/2" good to get a nice hold in the concrete?

Thank you.

a barrier is good practice under a wall on top of concrete, keeps drafts out and moisture. for the double wall most likely treat it as needing a door header in each wall and jacks and king studs along with the header. you could probably just use 2x8 as the king jack assembly if it is two 2x4 walls next to each other. set the door to the side that you want it to swing toward and use jamb extensions to fill the rest of the wall thickness. depending on your concrete you might have a hard time getting ram sets to work, consider tap cons instead...

Mijotter 02-24-2013 11:06 AM

The concrete i'm nailing it to is fairly new(in concrete age) at 7 months old since I waterproofed the basement last summer.

And i'm building a room within a room for sound isolation reasons(this is going to be my theater room). So there will be a 2 inch gap between the walls. Sorry I should have explained that originally.

Would the 2 1/2" driving nails be sufficient and should I use a washer when driving them?

Thanks so far guys.

hand drive 02-24-2013 11:17 AM

I'd get a box of 2 1/2" and 2" and try the 2 1/2" first. if the 2 1/2" do work then take the 2" back to the store. if the 2 1/2" do not work then use the 2". depending on the psi of the concrete will determine how well they sink. We had a 12" slab built up in the air off the back of a house once to be based as a heat sink for the back part of the house and that concrete was the hardest stuff ever.

Gary in WA 02-24-2013 04:43 PM

I followed the link and there was no reference for vapor permeability. I expect they allow some moisture through, though hard to say how much without an IECC paper on them. I would not use adhesive until a heating/cooling season to watch for mold/mildew/moisture under them. A lot will depend on if there is a vapor barrier plastic installed under your new slab, or not. That will limit the moisture but do nothing for insulating or keeping the floor surface warm enough to prevent summertime condensation on the slab/mat interface. You need to take into consideration the sub-surface water temps as well. http://www.epa.gov/athens/learn2mode...enrys_map.html The deeper the slab, the warmer the temps. I think the pay-back of R-2.5 (1/2" XPS) seems reasonable as you would be retarding the moisture, insulating against interior condensation, and keeping your bare feet warmer. Depends on moisture content of the soil under the slab for the amount of capillary draw, as well. (Unless a poly is present). Use 1/2 XPS (with beads of caulking against air movement-one each side of f.b.) under ALL the walls as well- to prevent them from becoming "heat sinks" coupled directly to the earth through the slab.Thermal/air barrier in continuity; http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/ic...002_par021.htm

And: http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/ic...002_par022.htm

Gary

Mijotter 02-24-2013 11:12 PM

wow Gary that was a lot of information to take in but much appreciated as with everyone else. I don't believe there is a barrier under my slab. My house was built in 1944. I have the walls, rim joists, ceiling all taken care of properly. Unfortunately my basement ceiling isn't the tallest and i'm installing drywall on furring channels so with only the slab i'll have about 3 inches of head room(I'm 6'4"). So my options are limited as far as flooring goes, plus i'm building said theater room to resemble the inside of a submarine which is why I love the look of the "metal grate" rubber floor tiles.

So i'm guessing sealing the slab with an epoxy will have no positive benefit? I have quite the dry basement too btw.
http://menards.com/main/building-mat...718-c-5651.htm

http://www.sherwin-williams.com/home...technical-info

Gary in WA 02-24-2013 11:45 PM

The paint/mat stop water wicking but you may get condensation from moisture in the room air in the summer when the basement floor lags 2-3 weeks behind ambient air (outside surface) temps. With the slab at 50*F and room air at 70*F, the dew point would be 49%RH. With R-5 (1"XPS) you're safe up to 59%RH. Anything above that would condense on the slab/mat interface, depending on the permeability of the mat (give them a call for R-value), and temp of the slab. Try it without insulation (foamboard) or glue, and check it later. Insulation warms the flooring to stop condensation as well as convection, page #4; http://www.buildingscience.com/docum...g-your-basment
If you don't go with f.b., I hope it works for you!

Gary

Mijotter 02-25-2013 10:12 PM

Ok so on a side note. I'm doing all of this for my theater room and I'm sealing off my glass block windows. I put cement board over them but the cement board is quite cold. Should I put a 1/2" layer of XPS touching the glass block THEN the cement board. 2 layers of 5/8" drywall will go over the cement board. I'm concerned with condensation on the warm side of the cement board that touches the drywall. Thanks a ton.

Gary in WA 02-28-2013 06:45 PM

The foam board raises the dew-point temps for no/less condensation; http://www.buildingscience.com/docum...bout-diffusion

Gary


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