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Old 07-27-2011, 06:38 PM   #16
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Finishing my Basement


This is from Owens Corning's website. The majority of contractors said they would put a vapor barrier in the basement...

Question: What is the proper way to install a vapor retarder?

Tim writes from Hainesport, New Jersey: "I'm trying to determine the proper way to install a vapor barrier. I've just recently begun refinishing my basement; even though I've never experienced any water or moisture problems I chose to seal the walls and floor with DryLok just as a precaution. Now I plan to install 2x furring strips along the walls and put up 1 1/2" extruded foam insulation, tape all seams and caulk all joints. Then I will frame the walls with 2 x 4's and insulate with fiberglass batts. My confusion comes with the installation of the vapor barrier. Some things I have read state to install the vapor barrier closest to the warmest side of the room directly under the drywall. Others say to install the plastic along the concrete walls. Which is correct? Wouldn't the installation of the DryLok and rigid foam essentially be a vapor barrier? And, should I use fiberglass insulation that has a paper facing, or not, in conjunction with a plastic vapor barrier? Sorry this question is so long but I want to make sure I do the right thing."
Answer: We do not recommend a plastic vapor retarder anywhere in the basement. In your application there is no need to install an additional vapor retarder over the foam. You can install either unfaced or Kraft-faced insulation in front of the foam. If you choose Kraft-faced insulation, the vapor retarder should face the inside of the wall, which will be the warm side in winter.


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Old 07-27-2011, 07:56 PM   #17
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Note: The vapor barrier is ONLY to be installed where the building is "ABOVE GRADE". Installing a vapor barrier below grade is not good, as concrete is not water proof and will allow moisture to penetrate it, therefore you need to allow it to move. The idea of a vapor barrier is only a small part of what is necessary to keep a basement dry. Drain tiles being set at the proper height, ground slope, soil type, location of house (city) etc etc, they all play a part in determining the needs of the building.
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Old 07-27-2011, 10:55 PM   #18
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Won't the basement end up being way too humid with no vapor barrier? My neighbor didn't have one installed and his drywall molded. I'm planning to just spray foam the concrete to act as a vapor barrier and insulation.
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Old 07-27-2011, 11:32 PM   #19
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Spraying your foundation walls with spray foam is a completely different set up all by itself. By the way, will you be using open cell foam or closed cell foam?, as there is a big difference and the end result might not be the outcome you would like.
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Old 07-27-2011, 11:36 PM   #20
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bmw 38, where is your location? This on fire-blocking, required in most all the U.S: R302.11 Fireblocking. In combustible construction, fireblocking shall be provided to cut off all concealed draft openings (both vertical and horizontal) and to form an effective fire barrier between stories, and between a top story and the roof space.

Fireblocking shall be provided in wood-frame construction in the following locations:
1. In concealed spaces of stud walls and partitions, including furred spaces and parallel rows of studs or staggered studs, as follows:
1.1. Vertically at the ceiling and floor levels.
1.2. Horizontally at intervals not exceeding 10 feet (3048 mm).
2. At all interconnections between concealed vertical and horizontal spaces such as occur at soffits, drop ceilings and cove ceilings.
From: http://publicecodes.citation.com/ico...002_par031.htm







Page #2 should help you: How to fireblock framing


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Old 07-27-2011, 11:44 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fixrite View Post
Spraying your foundation walls with spray foam is a completely different set up all by itself. By the way, will you be using open cell foam or closed cell foam?, as there is a big difference and the end result might not be the outcome you would like.
Closed cell. I'm doing it more for the vapor barrier than anything.
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Old 07-27-2011, 11:49 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikegp View Post
Closed cell. I'm doing it more for the vapor barrier than anything.
How do you plan to keep it adhered to the wall? Concrete will sweat moisture, it's how it cures, and it never stops. Too much over time and it will delaminate. Also with that, closed cell foam application is extremely sensitive to moisture content. Do you have really dry concrete that's within the manufacturer's recommendations?

Be sure with closed cell foam not to spray in more than 2" lifts to a maximum of 6" thickness. higher lifts than 2" contains the exothermic reaction within the foam and actually melts the foam's "closed cells" and creats large air pockets, deformations, and cracks which render the foam to a much lower R-value than it's suppose to have and negate it's vapor retardation capabilities.
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Old 07-27-2011, 11:57 PM   #23
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How do you plan to keep it adhered to the wall?.........With blankets and then tuck it in....how do you think spray foam is going to be held in place????? Ok I won't say anymore
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Old 07-28-2011, 12:05 AM   #24
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I was hoping it would stick to the concrete. I've only heard of a few people that had issues with it not sticking.

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