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-   -   Finished Basement : Phase 1 : Framing (http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/finished-basement-phase-1-framing-34536/)

DWilde 12-28-2008 10:29 AM

Finished Basement : Phase 1 : Framing
 
So i will be contacting the local building department monday to find out exactally what i need for permits. Good times...

My next question is with regards to framing.

1.) My basement is VERY dry, no moisture issue, have a dehumidifier that just about never runs, no leaks in the foundation. It is poured concrete with fiberglass insulation with the plastic on the outside to serve as a vapor barrier. Do i absolutly NEED to use PT for the bottom board?? I have heard both ways. I have heard that if the basement is dry, its not really an issue, but i'm wondering what an inspector will knock me for?

2.) with regards to the height of the framing. i have heard to leave a bit of a gap. because the floor slopes in some areas, its not exactally straight and level everywhere in order to help move water to a drain (heaven forbid a flood did occur). One source i have read says to leave like 1/8" to be able to stand the walls up, some are saying 1/4". Doing some basic measurments, over an 8ft section of wall, the height can change upwards of 1.5". Again, just need to know what an inspector will be concerned about.

3.) I had a section of wall right by the stairs where the previous owners had torn the insulation, looks like they came down the stairs with something big and put a huge hole in it. Then took clear plastic and taped over it. it looked hideous. Last week, i ripped it down, took 1x3 furring strips, used tapcons and secured the furing strips on, then used 3/4" poly stryrene insulation, and drywalled over it. Will this be a problem with pulling the permit to do the remaining work?? When do they actually come in and inspect??

Thanks for the info.

Dave

iMisspell 12-28-2008 11:21 AM

1) yes use PT.. not only do you have to, you have to for a reason.
Concrete has water in it, wood will soak up water, wood on concrete will = rot.

2) I would nail the top and bottom plates in place then cut the studs one by one if its that far out. Not that its gonna hold that much weight, but you want the top plate securly nailed to the bottom of the floor joists above. If you have a 1/8 thats not bad you could shim, but if your saying 1.5 then that seams like alot to me... im sure someone around here will have a trick or two which might help building the wall flat on the ground then kicking it up. You could also use ttwo bottom plates. Nail one down, frame the wall like you would normaly with twop and bottom plates then kick up the wall and left it on top of the bottom plate which you already have nailed down, that way will make it easyer to flip up also..

3) when you say, tapcons screws it seams like you are talking about fasening the furring strips to concrete ? Im pretty sure you need PT any time wood touchs concrete, any time (could be wrong).

Any chance your gonna post pictures of your progress once you start :)

_

Wildie 12-28-2008 12:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by iMisspell (Post 203413)
1) yes use PT.. not only do you have to, you have to for a reason.
Concrete has water in it, wood will soak up water, wood on concrete will = rot.

2) I would nail the top and bottom plates in place then cut the studs one by one if its that far out. Not that its gonna hold that much weight, but you want the top plate securly nailed to the bottom of the floor joists above. If you have a 1/8 thats not bad you could shim, but if your saying 1.5 then that seams like alot to me... im sure someone around here will have a trick or two which might help building the wall flat on the ground then kicking it up. You could also use ttwo bottom plates. Nail one down, frame the wall like you would normaly with twop and bottom plates then kick up the wall and left it on top of the bottom plate which you already have nailed down, that way will make it easyer to flip up also..

3) when you say, tapcons screws it seams like you are talking about fasening the furring strips to concrete ? Im pretty sure you need PT any time wood touchs concrete, any time (could be wrong).

Any chance your gonna post pictures of your progress once you start :)

_

I like your idea of a double plate on the bottom! I'm planning a similar project and running a PT plate, Tapconed to the floor will work well for me! Thanks for the suggestion!

DWilde 12-28-2008 12:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by iMisspell (Post 203413)
1) yes use PT.. not only do you have to, you have to for a reason.
Concrete has water in it, wood will soak up water, wood on concrete will = rot.


Any chance your gonna post pictures of your progress once you start :)

_

I may happen to have a section or two down already that has non-P/T wood at the base. Its being held in place by power nails driven by a powder loaded remington gun. Is there any trick to getting these out so i can change out the bottom??

on the Pics, Ofcourse!

Termite 12-28-2008 12:58 PM

Use PT lumber. Not an option.

The gap at the bottom is optional in most cities, but some cities with expansive soils require it. If the floor slab is moving I'd suggest that you consider it. If it is not moving then cut your studs to fit the plates as suggested. Or shim the walls.

They'll do an inspection of any underslab plumbing you install, a rough-in of the framing, plumbing, HVAC, and electrical, perhaps an insulation inspection (normally all at once), perhaps a sheetrock inspection (doubtful and stupid), and a final inspection.

ponch37300 12-29-2008 02:52 PM

You can try a pry bar to get the bottom plate up. It will depend on how well the nails attached to the concrete, some concrete accepts these nails better than others. If a pry bar doesn't work you can use a sawzall to cut the plates where the nails are and remove the plates and then use a grinder to grind the nails flush with the concrete.


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