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Old 11-05-2012, 04:51 PM   #1
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Exterior wall/siding dryrot: repair or replace?


Hi all, thanks for helping out...

Here is a photo of our current exterior wall/siding. As you can see from the picture, the downspout was not extended so lots of rain water caused the siding (wood) to have dryrot.. I didn't notice this problem until now and now there is a area of wood (6" x 3") that is really soft...

Here is a photo:




(click the picture to enlarge for more details)

My questions:

1. Would it work if I just scrape the paint and the rotten wood off, then "paint" it with "wood hardener" and wait for it to dry, then use "wood filler" to repair this area?? With wood filler how can I use it to keep the surface flat? I guess if I go with this route, I'm not sure how much "soft" wood I should scrape down.... I'm a bit worried that I will keep scraping as a lot of wood in that area is kinda soft...

2. Any other better way to repair this? Should I even consider to replace the whole area with new wood?? Thoughts or comments?

3. For the concrete floor that has some cracks, would it be a good idea to use UGL DRYLOK waterproofer at that area?? I guess I will also need to have a waterspout extension installed to redirect the water away from the foundation....but would like to do as much waterproofing in this area as possible

Thanks again!


Last edited by ohman; 11-05-2012 at 05:05 PM.
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Old 11-05-2012, 08:42 PM   #2
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Exterior wall/siding dryrot: repair or replace?


the siding needs to be patched in with new siding and the crack is not a crack in the concrete but looks like a build up (berm) that was created to shed water out away from the foundation.. that is a form of T1-11 siding and it is the 8" or 9" smooth version which could be harder to find.

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Old 11-05-2012, 09:35 PM   #3
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Exterior wall/siding dryrot: repair or replace?


That whole thing was built wrong and will always cause you problums.
T-111 should never be installed any closer then 6" of any grade. (in fact that code most places)
There's always water going to be getting in under that wall.
There's two ways to fix this. The best way is to rebuild the wall and this time have a row of block on the slab and build the wall on top of that.

The second way is to snap a level line just above the rot (making sure it comes out to a common width that PVC lumber comes in, 5-1/2, 7-1/2, 9-1/2)
Make the cut and remove the wood, Pry the siding out a little, pime and paint the bare area. Once dry install a piece of Z molding up under the siding.
Then use a heavy bead of silicone all along the bottom plate. Now install a piece of vinyl lumber using Stainless steel trim head screws.
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Old 11-06-2012, 02:27 AM   #4
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Exterior wall/siding dryrot: repair or replace?


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The second way is to snap a level line just above the rot (making sure it comes out to a common width that PVC lumber comes in, 5-1/2, 7-1/2, 9-1/2)
Make the cut and remove the wood, Pry the siding out a little, pime and paint the bare area. Once dry install a piece of Z molding up under the siding.
Then use a heavy bead of silicone all along the bottom plate. Now install a piece of vinyl lumber using Stainless steel trim head screws.
That whole area (house extension) was added later on about maybe 20-30 years ago (the house was built in 1935), so I think you were right that it wan't built correctly...

Anyway, I think at this point I can only consider the second way. Is there any youtube video or online tutorial that shows people how to do that?

Last edited by ohman; 11-08-2012 at 03:04 AM.
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Old 11-06-2012, 06:47 AM   #5
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Exterior wall/siding dryrot: repair or replace?


Be sure to hold the siding up a ¼” up off the flashing and also paint that bottom edge before you install it. Also the siding on the upper right really should be flashed too. The siding shouldn’t be sitting on top of the foundation like that.

The wall should have been built so the siding could have hung over and down the foundation about an inch protecting that joint from water intrusion.

If you can, post a link to that video you’re referring to. Just because it’s on You Tube doesn’t mean it’s good information. I’ve many of those videos that were just flat out wrong.
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Old 11-08-2012, 03:19 AM   #6
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Exterior wall/siding dryrot: repair or replace?


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Also the siding on the upper right really should be flashed too. The siding shouldn't be sitting on top of the foundation like that.
Thanks for the info. So how should the siding be sitting on top of the foundation then? Just curious. Thanks again!
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Old 11-08-2012, 03:24 AM   #7
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Exterior wall/siding dryrot: repair or replace?


Here is a photo at the corner of that storage space (the interior side of the rotten siding)...is that dry rot or even a crack, or mold? Is there anything that I should be concerned about in this picture? Thanks!


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Old 11-08-2012, 07:31 AM   #8
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So how should the siding be sitting on top of the foundation then?
The siding “should not” be sitting on top of the foundation at all.

It should be hanging down over the edge of the foundation an inch or so protecting the bottom of the wall from wind driven rain.

What’s keeping water from entering under the wall and into the structure?

It’s a mistake the framer made. The only way to properly protect it know is with flashing.
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Old 11-08-2012, 05:05 PM   #9
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Exterior wall/siding dryrot: repair or replace?


So we had one contractor came over and he recommended to install stainless flashing on the outside, like kwikfishron recommended. As for the current wooden siding that has dry rot, he recommend to replace it with masonry siding. I don't know if there are some type of concrete/cement board (CBU?) that can serve for siding purposes (fiber cement board??)... any recommendation about such product? Thanks!

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Old 11-08-2012, 05:23 PM   #10
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Exterior wall/siding dryrot: repair or replace?


I just found a product called tyvek (is it considered as fiber cement board?), would this work with older house (1930's)?? Thoughts or comments? Thanks!

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Old 11-08-2012, 08:49 PM   #11
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Exterior wall/siding dryrot: repair or replace?


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Originally Posted by ohman View Post
So we had one contractor came over and he recommended to install stainless flashing on the outside, like kwikfishron recommended. As for the current wooden siding that has dry rot, he recommend to replace it with masonry siding. I don't know if there are some type of concrete/cement board (CBU?) that can serve for siding purposes (fiber cement board??)... any recommendation about such product? Thanks!

for full out replacement of all the siding on that wall then go back with fiber board t1-11 siding, otherwise to match while just repairing what is rotten will require the same siding to go back with proper flashing of course.
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Old 11-09-2012, 04:06 PM   #12
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Exterior wall/siding dryrot: repair or replace?


OK the contractor was debating for that particular siding that is rotten, whether he should replace with redwood siding or fiber cement board T111 siding. His reasoning is that redwood quality these days are not as good as before (although still expensive), so he doesn't know how long it can hold. On the other hand he mentioned that fiber cement board are so cheap and he doesn't trust these cheap materials... Any thoughts or comments?? I think for us the priority is low maintenance and duability. I think how it looks come second... thanks
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Old 11-09-2012, 04:28 PM   #13
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Exterior wall/siding dryrot: repair or replace?


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Originally Posted by ohman View Post
OK the contractor was debating for that particular siding that is rotten, whether he should replace with redwood siding or fiber cement board T111 siding. His reasoning is that redwood quality these days are not as good as before (although still expensive), so he doesn't know how long it can hold. On the other hand he mentioned that fiber cement board are so cheap and he doesn't trust these cheap materials... Any thoughts or comments?? I think for us the priority is low maintenance and duability. I think how it looks come second... thanks
Doesn't matter what you use, as long as the siding is down on the ground like that you’re going to have problems. Your siding guy should have told you that.

Re-read post 3... You need to get the siding “off the ground”. The second option with the pvc trim would be the least expensive option.
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Old 11-09-2012, 06:15 PM   #14
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Exterior wall/siding dryrot: repair or replace?


Quote:
Originally Posted by kwikfishron View Post
Doesn't matter what you use, as long as the siding is down on the ground like that you’re going to have problems. Your siding guy should have told you that.

Re-read post 3... You need to get the siding “off the ground”. The second option with the pvc trim would be the least expensive option.
Thanks for your help, kwikfishron, here is the situation...

For the outside, the ground is actually higher than inside (don't know why it was built like that at the first place).. Here is a picture, the "red" line indicate roughly where the outside ground is...



So, because of this, I guess unless that we continue to stack concrete (or bricks?) on top of the bottom plate (the horizontal joist), which I don't know if it's a good idea (probably need to remove that bottom plate first right?) Otherwise no matter what type of siding we use, it WILL be close to the ground..

By the way, I don't know if you can see it from the picture, but when they built this house extension 25-40 years ago (my guess), they probably already stack up and added more height for the current foundation wall, as you can clearly see two different colors of foundation...

Because of this, the siding contractor suggested to just replace the rotted plywood T111 siding with redwood siding, THEN, on the outside, install two layers of stainless steel flashing (one would covered with redwood siding and the concrete on top of it, the other will be exposed) to prevent water sipping in. He will also build a concrete floor (triangular shaped) on the outside so that the water will not get close to the foundation. Would this plan work? Thoughts or comments? Thanks!

Last edited by ohman; 11-09-2012 at 06:23 PM.
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Old 11-09-2012, 06:34 PM   #15
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Exterior wall/siding dryrot: repair or replace?


Honestly, I’d be getting bids on building up the foundation. Anything other than that is just a Band-Aid.

Why are there no studs in that wall???

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