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Old 09-26-2008, 01:58 PM   #1
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Exterior insulation


Im having a draft problem at my rim joist prety much right aroud my house. People who built the house way back when wherent the smartest cookies.

The front end of the house was added later on, and the rim joist is not covered by the siding, they put metal lath with parging, its only about 4 inchs exposed. Problem here is that the parge has a few cracks, holes, and even missing at some parts, I can see the rim joist at many areas and im sure if I try hard enough, I can put a finger right through and have my finger show in the living room! I want to fix this draft problem...

The way i was thinking of doing this was to put foam board on the concrete wall. I wasnt going to do the entire wall from the footing to siding, just about 2 inch bellow earth to the siding itself. Once finished, i would be able to seal the seam at the siding and foam to prevent air flow from entering from the seam.

Im not doing this for the R value really, thats why im not insulating to the footing. I just want to fix my draft problem for this winter, and next year im going to put some leth and parge it to make it look prety to the eye.

What do you guys think? am i attacking this the right way?

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Old 09-26-2008, 02:36 PM   #2
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Exterior insulation


Can you insulate the rim joist from the inside with fiberglass batts?

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Old 09-26-2008, 02:44 PM   #3
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I have and it helped in the basement somewhat. The problem is im getting a draft from the crack from the top of the rim joist and the starting of the first level wall.
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Old 09-26-2008, 03:40 PM   #4
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Exterior insulation


How about spraying in some minimal expanding foam insulation.

I do not like the idea of burying the foam, I'd keep it off of the ground at least 8".
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Old 09-26-2008, 04:00 PM   #5
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Well as for spraying foam, it would still have to be done outside right bellow the siding where the crack is. Its not really a crack but a bunch of little cracks and holes. This would be hard to get all the area and not make it look like a mess.

As for the foam, i would be using exterior PlastiSpan or DuroFoam made for outside foundation walls, weeping tile to top. The info sheet i have for it here has "meets national building code requirements for above and bellow grade application".

Are you hesitant of the foam because it might not be weather proof? This outside one should be ok

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Originally Posted by 47_47 View Post
How about spraying in some minimal expanding foam insulation.

I do not like the idea of burying the foam, I'd keep it off of the ground at least 8".

Last edited by simonb; 09-26-2008 at 04:07 PM.
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Old 09-26-2008, 11:17 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 47_47 View Post
Can you insulate the rim joist from the inside with fiberglass batts?
After having a home energy audit earlier in the year, rim joist were high on the priority from which the auditor made his list.

I'm still in the process of finishing this project myself and have conducted much research.

Normally the above mentioned is how many approach this but is very inefficient. Fiberglas batts alone, which I had, were acting just like a fiberglass air filter. The auditor pulled the fiberglass from my rim joists and showed me the ring of dirt that had collected around the perimeter. (FYI - House was allowing 3X more air than it should.)

The proper way to do this is from the inside. Easier said than done if your basement is finished (luckily, mine is not). My auditor highly suggested using 1"-2" minimum spray foam but I am taking an alternative, less expensive route. I've sealed the perimeter of the rim joists with caulk or foam (caulk cracks up to 1/4" & use foam for anything bigger), replaced the fiberglass batts (trimmed to the proper size), placing 2" foamboard over that and sealing the perimeter once again. Accomplishing both the removal of drafts or sealing & then insulating with increased R-value.

If the basement is ever finished, drywall will go over that.

If you really belive you can't accomplish this from the inside, post some pictures of your current setup.
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Old 09-27-2008, 07:20 PM   #7
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Well i tried to take pictures but they dont turn out nice and arent easy to see, so i found a pic online and changed it to show you what im talking about.

The green arrow is where the siding stops, half way down the rim joist. The red line is where the cold air is entering the house and going to the main floor.

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Old 09-27-2008, 08:29 PM   #8
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If you have vinyl siding, you could remove a couple of rows and do this correctly and more efficiently.

Are you feeling a draft below a baseboard? What type of flooring? You could remove the baseboard and seal there as well??

I've altered your image on how I'd proceed with this project.

Blue = caulk or foam
Yellow = fiberglass batts
Pink = 2" foamboard
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Old 09-27-2008, 09:47 PM   #9
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As for the siding, its aluminum, wouldnt be easy to add a row! half my living room doesnt have baseboards at the moment, when we bought it they wherent there. Ive already looked and thought about spray foam or caulk, but again its not a definate crack, its more of a bunch of little holes and cracks that cant be seen. To top this off its new carpet and im afraid that the can foam will make a hell of a mess and expand. To top the top of things, some electrical was ran bellow the drywall where the baseboards go, not in the studs, just tucked in.... real smart.

This is why i was thinking the plan of attack, stop the draft from even getting to the rim plate and possibly moving up behing the siding.

Another problem is the corner where im having problems i dont have a basement there, about 7x7. Im getting air drafts from the floor cracks, so i dont know how well insulated it is under there. Of course when im moving to the living room reno, im going to pull up the floor and see what i have under that area.

Guess this comes with buying an older home!
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Old 09-27-2008, 10:07 PM   #10
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I wasn't indicating that you should add a row, but as to whether or not it could be removed so you could seal behind it.

Don't put foam anywhere near carpet.

How big of a gap is there under/behind your aluminum siding? Could you run a bead of caulk or a combination of the caulk saving foam and caulk? But then, this doesn't allow your siding to expand, hmmm? But then again, I don't see how your going to completely "seal" the draft by butting up some foamboard to the siding either?

Maybe just the caulk saving foam by itself, stuffed up and under the siding? If you're not familiar with caulk saving foam it's shaped like a snake with various diameters and does as is named. Saves from having to fill areas with caulk. This would be a very inexpensive and easy fix if it would do the trick??
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Old 09-27-2008, 10:12 PM   #11
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Behind the siding there are a few layers of something, old siding, old foam for the siding and some other things. In total i would give it maybe 1/2 inch space from the siding to the wall. I was going to slide the foam board under the siding about 1/2 as it would fit nicely. once everything is in, I was going to caulk the seam thats left over from siding to foam board.
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Old 09-27-2008, 10:42 PM   #12
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The foamboard IMO only leaves you with more work to cover it up later. (More projects to add to your list )

You also mentioned you are not interested in the r-value of the foamboard. Again, I think you may want to take a look at the caulk saving foam at your local hardware or home improvement store and see if this could be a viable option? What do you have to lose? If you're looking for the quick fix, this would be it and with minimal expense.

Best of luck.
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Old 09-28-2008, 03:20 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 47_47 View Post
How about spraying in some minimal expanding foam insulation.

I do not like the idea of burying the foam, I'd keep it off of the ground at least 8".
That's what I would suggest. Just covering the gaps from the inside with insulation still lets the air in and will get mold and moisture on the insulation canceling it's effectiveness. Some of the smaller sprayfoam kits will give you a solid 1" covering, act as a vapor barrior if it is a closed cell design, and add a R7 insulating value. Then you can stick you insulation back in adding even more R value.

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