Exposed sill plate/gap at stairs... how to protect?

thinksincode · 09-21-2012, 11:44 AM

Happy Friday, all!

So a friend of mine recently helped me rebuild my deck stairs. Unfortunately I noticed a bit of a problem. The tread on the replacement stairs were a bit smaller than the old ones and now there's some wood from what I think is the sill plate exposed to the elements, along with a gap that surely will let water get trapped in there and cause rot.

What is the right way to seal/protect this to prevent damage?

Here's a picture:

hammerlane · 09-21-2012, 12:01 PM

That looks like a rim joist. Can you post a photo a little further back?

thinksincode · 09-21-2012, 12:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hammerlane

That looks like a rim joist. Can you post a photo a little further back?

Ah, I should've known I'd get the terminology wrong.

I will get a wider angle photo for you this afternoon. Thanks!

allthumbsdiy · 09-21-2012, 12:46 PM

I am going to guess but that wood you see next to the step is an exterior plywood. Your rim band/joist and sill plate(s) would be on the other side of that plywood.

I think the correct way to protect your plywood, rim joist/band, and sill plate(s) would be to temporarily remove those steps, peel back siding, install a house wrap (i.e. Tyvek), then some type of self-sealing bituminous membrane (i.e. Ice Dam Shield), then re-install siding.

I would also leave a 2" gap between the siding and the steps as well.

Good luck

PS. Make sure the ice dam shield extends about 3" below the line where plywood meets your basement foundation to prevent water from kicking/wicking up

thinksincode · 09-21-2012, 04:22 PM

Here's a wider shot.

**kwikfishron** · 09-21-2012, 05:46 PM

Have any more of that siding laying around?

joecaption · 09-21-2012, 07:38 PM

The stairs should have been built out away from the siding so there was room for the siding.

**Gary in WA** · 09-21-2012, 10:14 PM

It appears you lost the minimum tread depth required by code, otherwise it would fit; http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/ic...?bu2=undefined

Your riser heights vary by way more than code maximum; http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/ic...?bu2=undefined

The nosing is wrong also: http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/ic...?bu2=undefined

I'd just rebuild them, use 4 stringers if required (maximum 16" or 12" - check with manufacturer), unless you have it, hard to measure my screen picture...

Gary

Pianolady · 09-21-2012, 11:07 PM

Could he remove the treads on that stair and use something like this as flashing over the exposed wood? Even comes in blue.

joecaption · 09-21-2012, 11:17 PM

Why pay $80 and only need 2' of the material?
Just rebuild them right and there's no wall exposted.

Pianolady · 09-21-2012, 11:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by joecaption

Why pay $80 and only need 2' of the material?
Just rebuild them right and there's no wall exposted.

I believe you can buy it by the foot instead. Don't need 50'.

joecaption · 09-21-2012, 11:27 PM

Where would you find a place to buy any color but white by the ft.?

Pianolady · 09-21-2012, 11:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by joecaption

Where would you find a place to buy any color but white by the ft.?

Any of these work?

This product comes in a wide variety of colors, not sure where you could buy it, but imagine you could contact them and find out.

joecaption · 09-21-2012, 11:37 PM

Still would not address all the other issues and the messed up J moulding that going to now let water in behind the water.

Pianolady · 09-21-2012, 11:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by joecaption

Still would not address all the other issues and the messed up J moulding that going to now let water in behind the water.

True. But it would be better than doing nothing if OP doesn't want to rebuild the steps. Even prime & paint would be better than doing nothing. I'm not claiming it would be the ideal solution. The j molding is messed up either way and needs to be adjusted or replaced.