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Old 03-18-2013, 09:50 PM   #16
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Egress Window Header


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Min window height is 24", and min window width is 20"
I think you mean clear opening width is 20" and clear opening height is 24", at least that is requirement under the 2009 International Residential Code. Depending of if the window is casement or double will affect the actual size of the window.

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Old 03-18-2013, 10:35 PM   #17
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The opening opening refers to the actual clear opening available with tools to remove anything to get in or out quickly. Almost every window has units that are certified as meeting egress requirements and they have a stick on the window. - Keep the sticker there until everything is in, done and approved.

Even with a certified unit, it must be located properly in the wall.

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Old 03-18-2013, 10:50 PM   #18
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I know the egress codes. My current plan falls in line with code. I just don't know about the header part. Thank you for your input everyone.
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Old 03-19-2013, 07:50 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by sgjordan View Post
Where can I find this window, that will work as an egress, with the rough opening width of 27.25"?
The Casement I am referencing in my case is made by HiMark. There are several manufacturers that make egress compliant casements and most will provide you with what the certified net clear opening size is once you provide them with the rough opening size.

In this case, a RO of 27.25" provides you with a net clear of 20" (right at the code compliance minimum). You will still need to have more that 24" of clear height to get the minimum 5.7 square feet and make sure that you minimum height clearance is met as well.

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Originally Posted by concretemasonry View Post
Find out what your local requirements are for egress windows. This is a critical item on any code inspection or for a pre-purchase inspection to determine the liveable area. - No qualifying egress window, the livable home square footage goes down along with amount available to be financed.

Many localities modify the national model codes because of necessary local conditions, such as fire fighting equipment to get in and just for kids to get out of and that maximum height to the opening (not sill) is usually 42" or 44". A deep pit that is narrow is also a no-no because it can be difficult to gain egress or exiting.

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Always check local codes and don't put the window right at the edge of the floor height. You never know how stingy one inspectors tape measure will be.
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Old 03-19-2013, 08:51 AM   #20
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It's clear you want to use a wider window for egress than you have, I don't blame you. Can you explain exactly what's going on over the window though. What is this "tie beam" consist of, and if it's concrete block, why is it wider than the rest of the wall????
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Old 03-19-2013, 06:53 PM   #21
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I spoke with the building codes guy in the area. He said that I will need to make some type of header. He said he couldn't tell me what to do, saying I would have to come to him with plans and he could ok them or not. He did however hint that 2x8's could be used. So, when you make a header like I would stack five 2x8s together, standing tall, and I would have to knock the top blocks on both sides out and fit in there right. Meaning that the block wall would have to hold up the header and I shouldn't just use a bracket and attach the header to the block, right? Also, if I wanted to go with a stell I beam or something instead where would I find that? And how would I know the size and thickness to equal the 2x8's or greater. Thanks.
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Old 03-19-2013, 06:57 PM   #22
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The tie beam is poured concrete. I'm guessing there is rebar in it. I'm not sure exactly why it sticks out. Maybe just decorative. I will investigate further.
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Old 03-19-2013, 09:19 PM   #23
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I would leave the "tie beam" alone in that case, and place a new header underneath. Ideally, the tie beam should hold it's own weight fine for that distance, but it's near impossible to verify that without knowing for sure what it has for steel re-enforcement, if any.

I'd scrap the wood header idea entirely. I'm sure the building inspector didn't understand you're situation, as there's no way anyone in his jurisdiction should be telling you to sandwich wood between concrete & concrete block. If available, a precast concrete lintel would be the best bet, followed by a "lintel beam", which is just an 8" steel beam with a wider plate welded on the bottom to carry block shells. The former would be found at a concrete block manu./supplier, the latter at a structural steel supplier..........
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Old 03-20-2013, 11:57 AM   #24
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Yeah, I was thinking that steel is the surest route to go. The tie beam should act about the same as a concrete lintel, but if it failed... Game over. I am hoping to find a steel I beam that will only take up 3-4".

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