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hohandy 12-14-2005 02:08 PM

Easy Drywall Question
I have a high ceiling that is very close to the roof, I think the drywall may get kinda of cold up there in the winter. Before I moved into this place someone, I think retaped the drywall seems up there. But in less than one year the tape is lifting and cracking. Very bad job. What is a very good tape and compound anyone would recommend for this kinda of job that is very strong and will hold up for years to come. And any tips would be great for removing the old stuff nicely and putting new tape on. Thanks.

jproffer 12-14-2005 05:39 PM

Is the ceiling CLOSE to the roof, or is it....the roof?

If it's close, as long as you have enough insulation, the drywall shouldn't get cold. (and definately not cold enough to do what you are saying). Treat the "sickness" not the "symtoms", in other words, find out why the drywall is getting that cold (assuming that really is why the tape failed) and fix it, don't justify it by trying to use better tape/mud.

SOOOOOO...what I'm saying is....take a step back. Tell us what you have exactly?(no detail is too small) What have you tried doing already to fix it? How well did it work, if at all? Do you have attic space accessible to check the insulation? If so, go up and measure the insulation depth. Also note the type of insulation. Is it blow in or fiberglass (itchy with paper backing)? Look up into the rafters. Is there insulation there?

If the space above is not accessible, drill a small hole in the drywall and look for insulation directly above it. If there is, the hole can be patched easily. If there's not, you need to put some in there. I hate to say it, but if there's no insulation, now would be a good time to take the drywall down and put some in. The tape is failing anyway, afterall. step at a time. Take a look and see what you find. Let us know and we'll go from there.

hohandy 12-14-2005 06:54 PM

I have not done anything yet. I wanted to get idea of best tape to use and compound. As for it being cold I was just thinking that. I did look and there is a crawl space between roof and ceiling. There is the fiberglass type insulation in there. I cant tell how thick on roof but it looks to be at least 10inches thick on ceiling though. As for why the tape came off I think someone didn't do a good job, someone that just didnt know what they were doing or didnt care. That is why Iam asking to use what good products that you have had great success using upside down on ceiling. There is no blow in insulation that I can see. But the insulation job looks nice. It dont look like the person who did the insulation did the drywall tape job, that's for sure. Looking for more tips.

jproffer 12-14-2005 07:37 PM

OK...another question (I swear I'll answer your questions the best I can after I have all the info I can get :D )...You said:


There is the fiberglass type insulation in there. I cant tell how thick on roof but it looks to be at least 10inches thick on ceiling though.
Does that mean that, if you're laying on top of the ceiling, in the "crawl space" or attic, there's insulation below you (on top of the ceiling) AND insulation above you between the roof rafters? Also, is this insulation backed (have paper on one side)? I'm wondering about moisture problems is why I ask.

As far as tape, there's no particular brand that's leaps and bounds above the rest IMO, but paper tape and standard (regular weight) mud for the bedding coat, then lightweight for the next two coats.

DecksEtc 12-14-2005 08:00 PM

As jproffer says, paper tape is pretty standard as is the mud. Without seeing your problem and from what you describe, my guess is that is was just a poor job from the beginning. If you remove all the old mud and tape, scrape it down to the drywall and mud and tape the seams properly you'll probably be fine.

Teetorbilt 12-14-2005 08:49 PM

How about some info on the structure? Many old homes move more as they age.

hohandy 12-15-2005 02:51 AM

Yes if you were in crawl space there would be insulation on both sides of you. The insulation on the ceiling side (on top of the drywall) has no paper on either side of it. The home has a ridge vent down the entire length of the home. The home is about 10 years old.

jproffer 12-15-2005 04:59 AM

There shouldn't be any insulation under the roof in an unfinished space. I'm guessing the insulation above has paper on the bottom side? Could be trapping moisture, and with no barrier on the ceiling insulation, it could be getting to the drywall. I'm not saying this is related to your problem, but it could be a problem just the same.

I suppose the need for the extra insulation depends on where you live, but if your house were where I live, I would suggest taking out the upper insulation and replacing the ceiling insulation with faced insulation, paper down. Second best would be installing a vapor barrier over the insulation.

Bonus 12-15-2005 06:00 PM

JP, you sure you meant to say install vapour barrier OVER the insulation? VB should be installed on the "warm in winter" side of the insulation, which means between the insulation and the drywall. Otherwise the water vapour could get into the insulation and condense, causing all kinds of problems. Apart from that, I agree, remove the ins. between the rafters, see if there is a vapour barrier under the ceiling ins. If there is, great, if not, retape/finish the drywall and use an oil base paint to act as a VB on the ceiling. Make sure you have adequate soffitt venting and you should be fine.

jproffer 12-15-2005 07:24 PM

I meant over (at the time anyway). Rethinking is a beautiful thing though:D , and I have done that, and vapor barrier would do exactly as you say, trap moisture down on the drywall, which was my original concern. I don't know what I was thinking putting it over the insulation. I guess at the time I figured vapor barrier in the wrong place was better than none, but that's not true at all.

It was 5AM, gimme a break:D

Bonus 12-16-2005 12:18 AM

:D More coffee :D

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