Go Back   DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum > Home Improvement > Building & Construction

CLICK HERE AND JOIN OUR COMMUNITY TODAY...IT'S FREE!

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 03-28-2011, 10:40 PM   #1
Newbie
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Prince Albert, Saskatchewan, Canada.
Posts: 7
Rewards Points: 10
Default

Drywall, insulation, framing and basement.


Im not new to a saw. I have drywalled with family. Roofed. I can hit a nail with the first swing. Ok on to my post.

Basement - Going to frame the outer walls with 2x4's. Will frame out about 1 inch from the walls as most basements are not straight or square. As such I will have to put some insulation behind the 2x4's. Was thinking because I'm going to out on average, one inch, I would use R-20 as you would use this with 2x6 construction. Would this be a correct way of doing it?

On to drywall. Will keep the drywall off the floor about 3/4". As for vapor barrier.. I'm not sure what to do here. I've looked through all kinds of posts and some links posted here and I found that putting up poly will stop the concrete from breathing. Trapping moisture behind the drywall in the wood and insulation. I guess this would be moisture from the outside that might seep through the wall. I can see the poly being needed to keep the moisture from the air inside from getting to the cold concrete and producing frost in the winter then melting in spring and creating mold. Should I make sure that say at the bottom the drywall isnt super air tight to allow some "breathing" room. Or when I poly up the wall to leave the top unsealed to allow it to breath up there. And yes it gets cold here in the winter. (Northern Saskatchewan)

Thanks for any suggestions guys. Oh and I love this site.. learned alot here. Tim.

Timothyv is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-29-2011, 05:18 AM   #2
DIY staff
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Kane county,Illinois
Posts: 21,902
Rewards Points: 2,452
Default

Drywall, insulation, framing and basement.


I don't put up a plastic vapor barrier over the foundation---I believe that the plastic would hold moisture and bread mold.

If you wish to add a bit of air behind the wall---cut in a couple of return air registers (on opposite ends of the wall)----cover with a magnetic sheet in the winter.----Mike---

__________________
New members: Adding your location to your profile helps in many ways.--M--
oh'mike is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 03-29-2011, 08:45 PM   #3
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Fairbanks, AK
Posts: 1,847
Rewards Points: 1,000
Default

Drywall, insulation, framing and basement.


A couple of thoughts. Fiberglass batts are poor insulation. Rock wool will work better. If you have an air gap behind a wall, you get convective loops which kills your insulating ability. Were it mine, I'd sheath the wall w/ rigid foam first, sealing/taping joints. No vapor barrier over concrete.
jklingel is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-29-2011, 09:03 PM   #4
Newbie
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 20
Rewards Points: 10
Default

Drywall, insulation, framing and basement.


the building code in Alberta for frost wall installation in basements requires 6 mil poly to be installed on wall, after the wall has been insulated, and joist ends insulated with the joist end poly being long enough to be draped over the top of the wall and be tied into the wall poly and sealed with tuck tape or caulking. If your joist end measures 12 inches by 19 inches, cut your piece of poly 24x24 so as to ensure that you can staple it easily and possibly tuck tape or caulk it to from a good seal.

Also, the "gap" at the top of the wall, (the 1 inch air space between the rim board/concrete and the wood/steel frost wall), must be insulated with either the joist end insulation piece, or a seperate strip.

To frame your walls 1 inch from the concrete correctly, you must measure 1 inch at the TOP of the wall. Taking your 1 inch measurement from the rim board at the top, installing your top track/plate first and then plumbing down your wall will ensure that your walls are square because it is the rim board that was squared-up by the framer/cribber. The concrete walls may differ here and there, but not the rim board.
wwsteel7 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-29-2011, 10:50 PM   #5
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Fairbanks, AK
Posts: 1,847
Rewards Points: 1,000
Default

Drywall, insulation, framing and basement.


Wow. Does the code say "6 mil poly", or is that what people say it says? An inspector here told me several months ago that "We only accept 6 mil poly", till I asked him to read me the code. It really says "A vapor retarder of 1 perm or less." But, if the code says poly, then poly it is. That is contrary to current building science (generally), but wth?
jklingel is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-30-2011, 12:01 AM   #6
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 9,968
Rewards Points: 2,000
Default

Drywall, insulation, framing and basement.


I know your Codes are different in Canada, wwsteel7. Wouldn't you have the option for interior foam board without the exterior below grade insulation? Here, at Fig.2:4, ; http://www.nrc-cnrc.gc.ca/eng/ibp/ir...199/part2.html

Figure 2:11 gives the option of strapping on concrete with foam board and drywall as the air barrier and fire-stopping.

Gary
__________________
If any ads are present in my answer above, I do not condone/support/use the product or services listed, they are there against my permission.
Gary in WA is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-30-2011, 09:33 AM   #7
Newbie
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Prince Albert, Saskatchewan, Canada.
Posts: 7
Rewards Points: 10
Default

Drywall, insulation, framing and basement.


Well I see that I can go a few different ways here. Vapor retarder sounds like the right way to go with rigid foam. Wish I lived in a warmer climate.

Thanks for the ideas all. Tim.
Timothyv is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-31-2011, 12:12 AM   #8
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 9,968
Rewards Points: 2,000
Default

Drywall, insulation, framing and basement.


Be sure to check with your local B.D. for the final route, glad we could help...

Gary

__________________
If any ads are present in my answer above, I do not condone/support/use the product or services listed, they are there against my permission.
Gary in WA is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
? Framing flat drywall ceiling in basement bath. misshaley Building & Construction 0 01-17-2010 12:09 PM
Basement Framing Issues Prep for Drywall golddog Remodeling 8 01-15-2010 06:40 AM
Confused about framing old basement... please help. drunken0monkey Building & Construction 5 09-10-2009 02:19 PM
Framing for drywall under Spiral staircase clemon03 Drywall & Plaster 6 07-17-2009 03:49 PM
Basement framing insulation question Bcoleman6 Building & Construction 5 03-21-2008 06:37 PM




Top of Page | View New Posts

Copyright © 2003-2014 Escalate Media. All Rights Reserved.