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-   -   Drywall Garage Ceiling Recommendations (http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/drywall-garage-ceiling-recommendations-10906/)

jsjames 08-21-2007 10:17 PM

Drywall Garage Ceiling Recommendations
 
I'd like to drywall the ceiling in our garage.
  • - The garage has 2x6 joists 48"oc that span 22' which is the depth of the garage. Each joist is supported in its center by a 2x4 tied to the rafters.
  • - The garage is 30' wide.
  • - There are 2x4 cross bars that run from corner to oposite corner. These are bolted onto the bottom of the 2x6 joists.
  • - There is already a firewall between the living structure and the garage, so this is purely for cosmetic reasons.
  • - We don't plan to store anything significant in this space as well.
Questions/Recommendations?
- The 2x4 cross bar eliminates the ability to simply attach drywall to the joists. I presume it is required and necessary? (is it for earthquake safety? We live in southern CA)
- Is it possible to nail in 2x4s on 24" centers that run perpendicular to the joists and attach the drywall to those? Will the existing joists support the added weight of these crossbars and the drywall?

Any other recommendations on how to proceed?

Thanks,
Jeff



http://www.james-online.com/jjames/p...%20(Large).jpg

Ron6519 08-21-2007 11:34 PM

Since you need 5/8" firecode drywall I would go 16" on center with the joists. That's quite an array of boards you have there. Two by's, 5/4 's going every which way.
You need to establish a consistant, level plane to attach the sheetrock to. And you'll need to attach braces to the roof joist to maintain a stable ceiling. You will need to check to see if the structure will tolerate the added load. Twenty sheets of 5/8" sheetrock is quite a load,
Ron

crecore 08-22-2007 11:07 AM

looks like the 2x6's are really like collar ties on every other rafter. Add extras in so you have 24" oc. Then put new diagonal bracing in on top of those, take the lower ones off, then use 5/8 fire rock.

jsjames 08-22-2007 12:15 PM

Thanks for the replies, a follow-up question:

The current diagonal bracing is attached in the corners to the top of the wall (and I presume that is important?). I like the idea of moving the bracing to the topside of the 2x6's, but how would I connect into the wall?

Do 2x6's meet the span requirements to run 22' (while be tied to the rafters in the center) and support the drywall?

KUIPORNG 08-22-2007 12:31 PM

some of the bracing if not all ... to me is to avoid the joist from shifting rather than provide any support for the load up... that can be done by put in blocking between the joists... so once that done... the bracing can be taken away... the existing way of bracing to me is an easy way of installation but the cost is uneven ceiling.... 2 of your horizontal 2x4 looks like is not even for the structure purpose, but for the purpose of being able to be used to hang things.... I done similar to my basement, in the beginning the ceiling have those annoying bracing the builder using some very ugly uneven 2x4... I posted asking are those bracing necessary..etc.... I end up remove them and put in some blocking in some... and none in some... note... my basement is fully inspected.... I suspect in my case, the bracing is for the initial holding up so that joist do not shift before the building settle...... or may be even left there because the builder forget to take them away when they finish building it...

gfriedman 08-22-2007 12:51 PM

Looks like a temporary brace hence it is bolted on.

jiggyjack 08-22-2007 03:47 PM

You will need at least another tie in between the existing ties. That way you wil have 2 x 6 24 inch on center. For each of the new ties you install run 1 x4 or 6 up to the rafter above. The same way as the existing rafters. Once you have done that you can transfer the 2 x 4 that is on the botom of the 2 x 6's to the top. Then rock the ceiling with 5/8's rock. By using 5/8's rock it is considered structural and the replacment of the 2 x 4's on top of the 2 x 6's becomes optional.

Good luck!!!


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