Drywall Butting issue

jelly

One thing I still don't understand on my 8'6" walls. I've been told you either put the seam on the middle or at the top... that's it makes on difference.

Wouldn't it best to keep the seam at the top? Then you would have two tapered seams and the raw edge would but up to the ceiling. Wouldn't this be ideal rather than taping a tapperd edge to a raw edge in the middle of my wall?

AtlanticWBConst.

Please bear in mind ....that the advice is "relevant".

....It is is based on the taper's experience.

A good taper can easily, QUICKLY & Consistently - "REACH" a seam that is at "mid-level" and coat it accordingly" (per it's visable needs)...rather, unconcerned of it's location, and focusing on his/her taping skills.

A Newbi...would rather hide the seam in an obscure location because of their "apprehensive abilities" to hide such a seam.

In all humility; This is my point: an experienced taper/coater can hide a seam, literally,...."anywhere".

For expediency (Experienced taper): In the middle of the wall is the best placement.
For lack of taping skill (Newbi): Hide that seam where you can, in the darkest, least observable location possible!!! (and keep serving your guests lots of drinks while keeping the lighting VERY, very low... ...and raving about your flooring...whatever it is....)

__________________
- Build Well -

AtlanticWBConst.

Jelly,

All joking aside: You can obtain 54" width sheetrock for walls with ceilings over 8'-0".

However, if you have less of a width sheetrock stock (48" wide), that you plan on installing, it would be installed this way:

(Again, this pertains to using 48" width S/R in an 8'-5" area):

Cut/STRIP-OUT: 4-1/2 INCH to 4-INCH - strips of GWB (the required thickenss Gypsum Wall Board) & install those against the (previously installed) sheetrock ceilings. Take note: The cut edge would be installed up-to, and against the sheetrock ceiling, with the factory seam facing down-ward.

Then, you would install the two (2) full 48" width sheets of Sheetrock. This way, you would always have "FACTORY" seam-to-seam meetings of the GWB material. The "cut-edge" would be facing the inside ceiling corner and would be "corner-taped" and coated. The lower sheet, closest to the floor, would be installed with a "kicker", in order to, get the sheetrock seams "tight".

On a professional level: The seam is placed at the ceiling height location for these reasons:
1.) It is easier on the ''back'' to repeatedly coat and sand an area above your head than any areas that might cause you to bend (hunch-over), and apply vast amounts of pressure onto .... in order, to make smooth.
2.) Most (99.9%) of professional drywall contractors do their over 8'-0" work, while walking on stilts. Thus, any seams at that level can easily be coated and sanded with minimal physical effort, and then, closely examined, for a smooth finish.... VERY easily at "their eye-level".

FWIW: This is a standard Sheetrock installation method, that is especially practiced when installing vertical (upright) 5/8" sheetrock in commercial locations. That way, all seams are; "Factory-seam to Factory-seam", and any cut segments are place to the inside corners.

__________________
- Build Well -

yummy mummy

For lack of taping skill (Newbi): Hide that seam where you can, in the darkest, least observable location possible!!! (and keep serving your guests lots of drinks while keeping the lighting VERY, very low... ...and raving about your flooring...whatever it is....)[/quote]

You always have such great advice.

I have seams in my ceiling going every which way.
By the time I get the taping finished, I will not be able to see any "bare" drywall, it will all be covered in mud.

jelly

Thank you. Obviously I've never done this before. I will be able to carry this information with me the rest of my life.