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Dryer vent through brick?

27K views 14 replies 9 participants last post by  vote4Pedro 
#1 ·
I am relocating a dryer and need to put a hole through the wall and exterior brick to run the dryer vent...what is the best way of doing this?
 
#2 ·
Make an outline of the hole. Get a roto-hammer, drill into the hole in a hexagonal pattern, Then go one drill bit width inward, and make a pentagon pattern, and then three in a triangle pattern in the middle. with one home dead center in the triangle. Take a masons hammer, break it up from the middle out, when you get to the edges take a rock chisel and break it up smooth, run your tubing through, connect the exterior piece, then tie in your interrior piece, and you're good to go.

Remember to caulk the exterior to keep water from coming into your house. and use foam on the inside edges for insulation from any cold.
 
#3 ·
Since the back side of the vent and the hoses is round I just mark out a round hole that'a slightly bigger then the back side of the outside vent. Make sure you measure it where that lip is on the back side not the tube part that slides in the hole.
I use a hammer drill with a 3/8 X 12" long masonry bit so I can drill through the brick and block in one pass. I hold the dril at a slight angle so the back side ends up bigger then the outside. Drill holes as close together as you can. Once there all dril a few wacks with a hammer should pop a plug out and drop into the inside of the foundation. A brick chisle will clean up any rough spots. With the right drill at only about a 15 min. job.
 
#5 ·
The problum with one of these is if there block behind the brick you would need a 12" deep one, also a high torque drill to turn it.
Check the cost on one of these 4-1/2" bits that's only going to get used once by a DIY.
Home Depot rents a coore drill with the bit included.
 
#6 ·
TBH unless I could borrow one for free I wouldn't go to the expense of renting one for just one hole. Stitch drilling as you said is the way to go.
Is an 8 inch block backing up the face work common in your area?
Where I live it's usually a 4 inch block, 4 inch cavity with full or part fill insulation, and then 4 inch face brickwork.
 
#14 ·
TBH unless I could borrow one for free I wouldn't go to the expense of renting one for just one hole. Stitch drilling as you said is the way to go.
Is an 8 inch block backing up the face work common in your area?
Where I live it's usually a 4 inch block, 4 inch cavity with full or part fill insulation, and then 4 inch face brickwork.
Stu

The only time you'll typically see THAT is on the top course of a block basement, as we typically see an 8" block on the top course of a 12" wall to lower the brick ledge to grade. You'll also see 8" block backing in hurricane-prone area's (mostly in Florida) where they build a good number of CMU homes. Although, many of these don't necessarily see brick veneer's either.

SO, the answer is, NO, it's not common here in the US where lightweight construction is "King".................... :whistling2:
 
#7 ·
Are you on a raised foundation? Crawlspace? Considered going down and then out? Most dryers are convertable....in other words, you can vent to the side, back or bottom.

I'm in the process of doing a 2-story addition right now....which includes a new laundry room....I'm to make a cavity behind the dryer with a removable door on the outside....it will be easier to connect the vent....it's a real PIA to connect the vent line when you can't reach it.
 
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