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Old 10-13-2006, 10:50 AM   #16
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Door installers please help...Again!

Rye tell them you want the right sill. That picture of the sill is ridiculous. That is sometimes the problem with HD and Lowes, they have one guy measure the door opening, another guy order the door and another guy install it. Guess who always gets the blame, the last guy who touched the door. I use to install for them when they first came around, we use to measure, order and install. I never had a problem. Now there is a middle company and it takes 3 different people to do the job we did. When there is to many hands in the pot your bound to have spills.


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Old 10-13-2006, 11:59 AM   #17
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Door installers please help...Again!

for a jam that is 5 1/4, what is the correct sill size?....

Also, if it comes down to them doing nothing....What are some of my options for dealing with this?
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Old 10-13-2006, 06:35 PM   #18
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Door installers please help...Again!

Rye, where you see a 2" seam in the sill there should only be 3/4-1". Call the store and ask for the district installation zone manager he will take care of your request.
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Old 10-13-2006, 10:58 PM   #19
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Door installers please help...Again!

We see this problem fairly often with different brands of doors now, not just those supplied from a big box store. It is the result of merchandising to what I call "the generic application of everything". This type of sill is for applications where the door is used on a building with brick or stone veneer, where you have 3 to 4 inches of masonary veneer on the outside of the frame wall, with a 5 1/2 brick ledge formed into the slab. In this case the sill would sit completely supported on the slab, as the brick molding on the door unit would actually be inset beyond the face of the brick, when the door was installed flush with the interior wall. I have done pt 2x6 support under this type of sill on wood sided buildings because the support can be designed to blend in as part of the exterior door trim, but I would not do wood support here, because it would always look like a botched job to me. Against a slab, I first drill and insert some type of pins into the slab, tapcon screws, split drive pins, or anything you're familiar with, and leave then protrude about 1/2 inch, to act as anchors for the support concrete. Then build a little wood form the width of the door unit and about 3/4 of an inch deeper than the projection of the sill. this 3/4 inch gap allows me to pour and pack fast setting vinyl concrete patch under the sill. This product cures very quickly, so you can remove the form, smooth any imperfections in the face, and rub a slight chamfer or round on the projecting corner.The description sounds complicated, but it is only about a 30 to 40 minute job.


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