Do I need hangers for this connection?

Alan · 02-02-2012, 10:17 AM

I'm going to have a seam in the drywall in the middle of this joist bay, so I decided to nail blocking from truss to truss to give me something to screw into.

The garage attic side, I can nail through the truss, but the other side is a different story since two trusses are stacked with a 2x10 joist. A little too long for nails.

Should I put hangers on that end of my blocking (signified by yellow dots), or just toenail it?

Willie T · 02-02-2012, 10:29 AM

Just toe nail it. If correctly hung, there will be almost no d/w screws in the blocking on the wider side... and none at all on the narrower side. (You do NOT fasten d/w lids (ceilings) up close around the edges.... especially when fastening to trusses.)

Alan · 02-02-2012, 10:36 AM

Ok, so based on your response, you're telling me the drywall (lengthwise) should be hung perpendicular to the trusses?

What would I have to do if I wanted to go the other direction?

Willie T · 02-02-2012, 10:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Alan

Ok, so based on your response, you're telling me the drywall (lengthwise) should be hung perpendicular to the trusses?

What would I have to do if I wanted to go the other direction?

In what circumstances would you elect to hang lids parallel with the trusses? The joints at the ends of sheets butted against a wall are going to be held in alignment with one another by the wall sheets under them... and locked together with the finishing process.

Alan · 02-02-2012, 10:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Willie T

In what circumstances would you elect to hang lids parallel with the trusses? The joints at the ends of sheets butted against a wall are going to be held in alignment with one another by the wall sheets under them... and locked together with the finishing process.

The only reasoning that I have is that the room is 11'-2" x 17'-0"

If I hang 12' sheets parallel then I wont have any butt joints whatsoever.

Willie T · 02-02-2012, 11:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Alan

The only reasoning that I have is that the room is 11'-2" x 17'-0"

If I hang 12' sheets parallel then I wont have any butt joints whatsoever.

I see. Makes good sense. In either direction, the blocking will be needed simply to get in that last screw (about 11" away from the wall) to be code compliant........ although some jurisdictions do get sticky about joints falling on framing members as specified in GA 216. Check with your Building Dept on this for your area.

Willie T · 02-02-2012, 11:22 AM

BTW, GA 216 is a good reference to have in your library. Some jursdictions are still using the 2007 version, (free online), and some are now using the 2010 version, (about $10). As always, check with your local Building Department to see how things fly in your area.

mrgins · 02-02-2012, 02:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Alan

The only reasoning that I have is that the room is 11'-2" x 17'-0"

If I hang 12' sheets parallel then I wont have any butt joints whatsoever.

Use 1x3 strapping 16" o/c perpendicular to the trusses

Alan · 02-02-2012, 09:34 PM

Here's another thought : Somewhat time consuming and slightly costly, but . . .

Could I nail up 2x4 blocking between every floor joist in order to turn the sheetrock the other direction without worrying about having too many screws in a framing member? For lids they can be spaced 24" O.C. is that correct?

If I do that : 2x4 flat or on end, and Toenailed or would I need hangers for that application?

woodworkbykirk · 02-02-2012, 10:53 PM

if the blocking is solely being put in so to provide backing for drywall i wouild just toe naile.. if its there to support weight or aid in transferring loads from one truss to another put a hanger on