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-   -   do I need to add top plate bracing on this? (http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/do-i-need-add-top-plate-bracing-121580/)

oldhouse49 10-28-2011 10:16 AM

do I need to add top plate bracing on this?
 
1 Attachment(s)
I'm removing the old wood siding from one of the exterior walls, put on new 1/2" sheathing then have someone do the stucco. I don't have the top plate exposed yet but here's a drawing of it derived from looking through an opening. my question is for seismic reasons, do I need to add (Simpson) bracing to secure the top plate to the wall? if so how? any picture will be great. thx

stupid question, but should the bracing go on before or after the sheathing ? If before, when I nail on the sheathing the nail won't go thru the bracing, that's what I'm thinking.

ddawg16 10-28-2011 11:21 AM

I'm in the middle of doing a 2-story addition right now. I understand what your asking. In fact, the front of my house sounds like yours....vert wood 6" wide T&G.

Since this is existing...I doubt your pulling permits...not sure if you really need to....because what your wanting to do is going to be stronger than before so your not doing any damage.

If we assume your following the requirements for an A shear wall....1/2" Struct 1 OSB. Your boundry nailing will be 8d at 6" OC. Field 12" OC. Stagger your nails on your 2 top plates. Yes....you need to expose that top plate so you can nail into it...at least get 3/4" of it.

If you were doing a B or stronger shear wall, you would need to do blocking at the bottom....

You do not need blocking at the top. The studs should be end nailed....and when you do your boundry nailing, that will hold everything in place. The boundry nailing is where you get your real shear strength.

I'm assuming your going to add insulation at the same time?

This is also a good time to maybe add any electrical that you may want.....for that you will need a permit.

BTW....there have been some changes on how you do stucco now....you don't take it all the way down the footing...you stop at the boundry of the shear wall and install weep screen.

Send me an email address and I'll send you the PDF for LA County building specs...the kind of info we can understand.

Oh....and when you go to nail on the wire for your stucco...make sure you put the nails on the studs...not between them. If you were close to the south bay, I have a guy that is real good at stucco and cheap.....and in the country legally....but no speaka English.

oldhouse49 10-28-2011 02:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ddawg16 (Post 758628)
I'm in the middle of doing a 2-story addition right now. I understand what your asking. In fact, the front of my house sounds like yours....vert wood 6" wide T&G.

Since this is existing...I doubt your pulling permits...not sure if you really need to....because what your wanting to do is going to be stronger than before so your not doing any damage.

If we assume your following the requirements for an A shear wall....1/2" Struct 1 OSB. Your boundry nailing will be 8d at 6" OC. Field 12" OC. Stagger your nails on your 2 top plates. Yes....you need to expose that top plate so you can nail into it...at least get 3/4" of it.

If you were doing a B or stronger shear wall, you would need to do blocking at the bottom....

You do not need blocking at the top. The studs should be end nailed....and when you do your boundry nailing, that will hold everything in place. The boundry nailing is where you get your real shear strength.

I'm assuming your going to add insulation at the same time?

This is also a good time to maybe add any electrical that you may want.....for that you will need a permit.

BTW....there have been some changes on how you do stucco now....you don't take it all the way down the footing...you stop at the boundry of the shear wall and install weep screen.

Send me an email address and I'll send you the PDF for LA County building specs...the kind of info we can understand.

Oh....and when you go to nail on the wire for your stucco...make sure you put the nails on the studs...not between them. If you were close to the south bay, I have a guy that is real good at stucco and cheap.....and in the country legally....but no speaka English.

fyi, I added blocking to the bottom plate and I'm using 1/2" plywood as sheathing. if you could send the pdf to jou128@yahoo.com, that'll be great. thx

oldhouse49 10-28-2011 02:09 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by ddawg16 (Post 758628)
I'm in the middle of doing a 2-story addition right now. I understand what your asking. In fact, the front of my house sounds like yours....vert wood 6" wide T&G.

Since this is existing...I doubt your pulling permits...not sure if you really need to....because what your wanting to do is going to be stronger than before so your not doing any damage.

If we assume your following the requirements for an A shear wall....1/2" Struct 1 OSB. Your boundry nailing will be 8d at 6" OC. Field 12" OC. Stagger your nails on your 2 top plates. Yes....you need to expose that top plate so you can nail into it...at least get 3/4" of it.

If you were doing a B or stronger shear wall, you would need to do blocking at the bottom....

You do not need blocking at the top. The studs should be end nailed....and when you do your boundry nailing, that will hold everything in place. The boundry nailing is where you get your real shear strength.

I'm assuming your going to add insulation at the same time?

This is also a good time to maybe add any electrical that you may want.....for that you will need a permit.

BTW....there have been some changes on how you do stucco now....you don't take it all the way down the footing...you stop at the boundry of the shear wall and install weep screen.

Send me an email address and I'll send you the PDF for LA County building specs...the kind of info we can understand.

Oh....and when you go to nail on the wire for your stucco...make sure you put the nails on the studs...not between them. If you were close to the south bay, I have a guy that is real good at stucco and cheap.....and in the country legally....but no speaka English.

I guess my original question is do I need to do something like what's in the pic, installing a brace to secure the top plate to the 2x4

AndyGump 10-28-2011 02:38 PM

I would suggest not using those things, use what is called A-35 if you think you need to. I don't think you need anything as the sheeting should take care of what you are trying to accomplish, as I understand it, of course.

Andy.

ddawg16 10-28-2011 03:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AndyGump (Post 758750)
I would suggest not using those things, use what is called A-35 if you think you need to. I don't think you need anything as the sheeting should take care of what you are trying to accomplish, as I understand it, of course.

Andy.

That is correct.

Chances are your house was built the same way mine was.....they would have end nailed all of your studs to the first top plate....then nailed the second top plate on.

You should have that PDF by now....

oldhouse49 10-28-2011 05:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ddawg16 (Post 758789)
That is correct.

Chances are your house was built the same way mine was.....they would have end nailed all of your studs to the first top plate....then nailed the second top plate on.

You should have that PDF by now....

house was built in 1949 but frame looks quite under nailed and under structured, my roof center board is merely a 1 x 6, not even a 2x, each rafter has only one nail going into the center board.

AndyGump 10-28-2011 05:21 PM

The 1x6 ridge is fine, don't be too worried about that. If it makes you feel better you can toe-nail some 16 d green sinkers into the ends of the rafters into the ridge but it is not really needed.
Your framing has lasted 60+ years already.
You can also forgo the A-35s, just toe-nail the studs into the lower top-plate.

Andy.

oldhouse49 10-28-2011 06:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AndyGump (Post 758864)
The 1x6 ridge is fine, don't be too worried about that. If it makes you feel better you can toe-nail some 16 d green sinkers into the ends of the rafters into the ridge but it is not really needed.
Your framing has lasted 60+ years already.
You can also forgo the A-35s, just toe-nail the studs into the lower top-plate.

Andy.

thanks for the info, the more I read about new codes the worst I feel about my old house, :( I think I need to give it a rest ...


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