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-   -   Different configurations of King Studs. (http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/different-configurations-king-studs-73123/)

Shea_Close 06-08-2010 02:36 AM

Different configurations of King Studs.
 
I apologize in advance, I'm going to try to make this as clear as possible, but fear it might come out confusing. I'd like to preface this by saying, though I am not a carpenter, I do have a decent amount of experience in rough carpentry, but have never heard of anyone doing what I have in mind, and would like guidance before proceeding.

I'm taking down a bearing wall that spans the entirety of my living room, roughly 16'. I've had a structural engineer out and he suggests 2 2x12's sandwiched over 1/2 plywood as a header, with two jack studs and a King stud on each side. The header will end within the adjacent walls on either side, and I'd hoped to have the supports hidden within the existing walls, but three 2x4's back to front are going to stick out, obviously. If this is the only configuration, then I'm happy to do it, but an idea struck me.

So my question is this. Would it be possible to configure it where the jack studs are stacked back to front holding the header, then on either side of those (perpendicular to the header/jacks studs, running the same direction as the wall that is staying) adding a couple king studs for support, so that it doesn't exceed the width of the wall that is staying?

Wildie 06-08-2010 03:59 PM

If the existing top plate of the wall to be removed is left in place, the beam could fitted under the plate of the perpendicular wall. The jack would support the beam and two kings on each side of the jack would prevent lateral movement of the beam and the jack!
Am I on same page, as yourself?

Willie T 06-08-2010 05:14 PM

3 Attachment(s)
If this is what you mean, I think you're fine. (The dark blue pieces are double jacks.)

Of course you'd need the top plates Wildie was talking about above the beam. (Shown in red in the last pic)

However, you end up with nearly 15 inches hanging down into your living room.

Willie T 06-08-2010 05:41 PM

BTW, consider how you will support the living room ceiling while the bearing wall is coming out and the beam is being installed. Besides the fact that some parts of your ceiling could fail during this work (if unsupported), the ceiling finish could easily crack, and the whole span of the ceiling will likely sag some, making getting the beam installed difficult.

Wildie 06-08-2010 07:29 PM

Willie, you just proved that one picture is worth a thousand words. :thumbup:

Willie T 06-08-2010 09:13 PM

Well, although I've been told that I write well enough to get by, and I used to proof technical manuals for a defense contractor, at heart, I'm mostly a visual person. I like dem purty pichers.

Gary in WA 06-08-2010 09:29 PM

What is the span of the joists bearing on this 16' beam? They must be ceiling joists only, not another floor above: http://www.colonie.org/forms/building/bdspanab.pdf

Be safe, Gary

Shea_Close 06-08-2010 09:37 PM

Willie, That is PRECISELY what I had in mind... And I've already got a temp wall supporting the ceiling on either side of the wall that is coming down... Plus the top plates are in place as you have them in the illustration, and they are going to remain, I'm not bothered by the 15 inches, the open space it is creating offers more positives than the drawback of 15 inches...

Thanks a million for the quick response, you guys are killer!

Cheers.

Quote:

Originally Posted by GBR in WA (Post 453265)
What is the span of the joists bearing on this 16' beam? They must be ceiling joists only, not another floor above: http://www.colonie.org/forms/building/bdspanab.pdf

Be safe, Gary

I believe they are 24" to center, and no, there is not a floor above to support, simply the ceiling.


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