densboard

joan518 · 11-12-2009, 03:31 PM

Hi! I was planning to use densboard (paperless drywall with fiberglass coating) in my basement. I was told I would just have to use a special primer, I don't know what kind, and then paint as usual. Is this true, I heard someone say that you had to skim paperless drywall. Is this true? I don't want to put it up and find out you have to skim all the walls, help?

Bob Mariani · 11-13-2009, 06:37 AM

this is a quote from GP site:
Yes, the steps to accomplish this are quite simple. First, finish the joints using fiberglass mesh tape and setting type joint compound. Next, skim the entire DensShield panel surface with setting compound. Once this material dries out, prime and paint, or prime and paper. The use of setting type joint compounds are preferred over ready mix joint compounds near moist areas.

Maintenance 6 · 11-13-2009, 07:32 AM

I've put up densarmor and finished it like normal drywall, then primed it using a deep (3/8) nap roller cover. It took more primer than normal, but after that, two coats of wall paint and I couldn't tell any difference from regular drywall. I use Densarmor coat drywall mud and fiberglass tape to keep all of the organics out of the walls.

ccarlisle · 11-13-2009, 07:34 AM

Skim coat, eh? Why don't you just use regular drywall and control the humidity level down there? Mould isn't fussy about what it eats and there's plenty of other choices for it to find to eat..."paperless drywall? OK we'll go for the wood, or the paint or...?"

What RH level do you plan to live with down there anyways? anything over 65-70% is dangerous.

Maintenance 6 · 11-13-2009, 07:54 AM

What ccarlisle says is true, BUT, if you ever have a water problem, Densarmor will survive events where regular drywall will turn to mush. Plus, with fiberglass drywall there is just that much less organic material in the system and drywall is the most ready food source for mold. Personally, that is all that I would use.

ctkeebler · 11-13-2009, 03:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Maintenance 6

I've put up densarmor and finished it like normal drywall, then primed it using a deep (3/8) nap roller cover. It took more primer than normal, but after that, two coats of wall paint and I couldn't tell any difference from regular drywall. I use Densarmor coat drywall mud and fiberglass tape to keep all of the organics out of the walls.

How many coats of primer does it take to fill the the little lattice holes on the densarmor? I'm looking to use the product, but not looking forward to trying to skim coat all the walls of the basement and make them even and smooth.

Thanks

Tom

Maintenance 6 · 11-13-2009, 04:29 PM

What do you mean by "lattice holes"? I used only one coat of primer, but I put it on heavy. I don't roll it out more than just to get rid of the roller marks. Then two normal coats of wall paint. It looks fine and you can't see the joints or fasteners. But, to be truthful, skim coating a wall is not that tough a prospect either.

ctkeebler · 11-13-2009, 05:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Maintenance 6

What do you mean by "lattice holes"? I used only one coat of primer, but I put it on heavy. I don't roll it out more than just to get rid of the roller marks. Then two normal coats of wall paint. It looks fine and you can't see the joints or fasteners. But, to be truthful, skim coating a wall is not that tough a prospect either.

I thought it had a covering of fiberglass over the face that made like a web or lattice making small holes or cavities becasue of the raised fiberglass.

joan518 · 11-13-2009, 08:01 PM

Thanks all, I think I can do this by just using primer and painting. I just didn't want to have to skim all the walls cause I am not good at that. Any thoughts for the type of primer I would appreciate. thanks again.

ccarlisle · 11-13-2009, 08:36 PM

I think GP sells that product mainly on it's impact-resistance qualities and incidentally on it's moisture resistance. So industrial and commercial use. I also think there's a fear factor built into their marketing ploy. Can't blame them, tho'

As someone who does water damage for insurance companies, I can tell you from experience that if an incident (like a flood) happened to someone's basement, in many cases - not all - the wall covering would be removed - no matter what the type of gysum-filled product was there, regular or fibreglass-faced. It goes; no questions nor justification for leaving it. And no insurance adjuster will justify the replacement of regular drywall with the fibreglass cousin.

And no company would endorse a skim coat of...not regular drywall compound, BUT a setting compound, no less!!! That's not a justifiable expense.

Spend your excess money on drywall and on controlling the moisture down there...

joan518 · 11-13-2009, 09:03 PM

Thanks all! I think I will just prime (with recommended primer by manufacturer) and paint it. I think it will be plenty smooth enough to suit me, I'm not that picky. It sure will be smoother that way than anything I skim. Thanks so much!!

rmosser · 07-07-2010, 04:22 PM

Hey there, can you tell me where you purchased this drywall ? i can't find it ................

Quote:

Originally Posted by Maintenance 6

I've put up densarmor and finished it like normal drywall, then primed it using a deep (3/8) nap roller cover. It took more primer than normal, but after that, two coats of wall paint and I couldn't tell any difference from regular drywall. I use Densarmor coat drywall mud and fiberglass tape to keep all of the organics out of the walls.

Maintenance 6 · 07-11-2010, 04:47 PM

I get it at Lowes, but almost any drywall supplier should have it.