Deck Sanding, Varnishing/protecting - Building & Construction - DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum

Go Back   DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum > Home Improvement > Building & Construction


Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 05-06-2007, 09:15 AM   #1
newer than a newbie...
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 136
Rewards Points: 87

deck sanding, varnishing/protecting

Hi There.

We had a deck built last summer (a bit too ambitious of a project for me to handle). I was told to wait at least a few months to apply deck stain/protection as the pressure treated would needed to 'breathe'.

Anyways, now, parts of the wood have a lot of spurs and cracks (especially where the screws were applied). I want to apply a wood stain/protectant, but before I do so, I would like to sand the really rough spots.

Does anyone have any suggestions of varnish or protectant, and is there a problem with sanding? I figure it's okay.

Thanks for your input!


mcvane is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-07-2007, 10:54 AM   #2
Brik's Avatar
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: SE PA
Posts: 803
Rewards Points: 500
Send a message via Skype™ to Brik

Yea, don't use varnish. Varnish is a film forming finish it will be a maintenance headache down the road. An oil finish or a stain is good and easily renewed.

Look at Sikkens brand stuff for decks, Penofin for an oil finish Or another brand of a solid color stain.

My preference would be Penofin.

Obviously do your sanding and cleaning first. make sure its dry before applying anything.

If its pressure treated use

Otherwise use

In Sikkens use

I also like
Timber Oil from Cabbots
I would go with Penofin or Sikkens over Cabbots for all but their timber oil products.


Brik is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-08-2007, 06:08 PM   #3
RAD Systems's Avatar
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 27
Rewards Points: 25

The wood dosn't ned to breather but the moisture content neds to come down and some of the chems need to leech out for a stain/sealer to penetrate.

Use a semi-transparent penetrating oil on your deck. Buy the product from a paint store and be prepared to pay $35 per gallon. Olympic Maximum is a good store brand that holds up. Just be sure to go OIL based. I listened to a half cocked SW employee giving a customer an earful of misinformation. I waited until he was done and had to set the customer straight. Water borne products contain acrylics and they are lousy. Very hard to maintain.

Use a good cleaning and prep product to get your wood ready. Nothing with bleach in it.
RAD Systems is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-09-2007, 09:48 PM   #4
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 5
Rewards Points: 10

I would recommend Penofin or SuperDeck oil stains. I would also try and stay in the natural wood tones and avoid colors like blue, green, and grey. A natural wood toned stain with alot of pigment will outlast a natural (clear) stain by quite a while.

As far as sanding goes there shouldn't be a problem. Use a low grit paper with alot of tooth and go to town. Sanding will tighten the grain thus causing it to possibly accept less stain so try and blend the areas you sand into unsanded areas so stain looks less blotchy.

Good luck!
ColoradoBuilder is offline   Reply With Quote

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
deck - beam to post connection (??) brocasArea001 Carpentry 21 05-11-2011 08:39 PM
What size deck is 'good' for our situation? curls00 Carpentry 20 09-08-2007 07:12 PM
deck questions robphelan Carpentry 6 06-25-2006 06:42 PM
Subfloor question for new deck and solarium CM2U Building & Construction 3 07-27-2005 09:50 PM
deck walls maintenance Building & Construction 6 04-03-2005 10:37 PM

Top of Page | View New Posts


Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.6.1