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mcvane 05-06-2007 09:15 AM

deck sanding, varnishing/protecting
Hi There.

We had a deck built last summer (a bit too ambitious of a project for me to handle). I was told to wait at least a few months to apply deck stain/protection as the pressure treated would needed to 'breathe'.

Anyways, now, parts of the wood have a lot of spurs and cracks (especially where the screws were applied). I want to apply a wood stain/protectant, but before I do so, I would like to sand the really rough spots.

Does anyone have any suggestions of varnish or protectant, and is there a problem with sanding? I figure it's okay.

Thanks for your input!

Brik 05-07-2007 10:54 AM

Yea, don't use varnish. Varnish is a film forming finish it will be a maintenance headache down the road. An oil finish or a stain is good and easily renewed.

Look at Sikkens brand stuff for decks, Penofin for an oil finish Or another brand of a solid color stain.

My preference would be Penofin.

Obviously do your sanding and cleaning first. make sure its dry before applying anything.

If its pressure treated use

Otherwise use

In Sikkens use

I also like
Timber Oil from Cabbots
I would go with Penofin or Sikkens over Cabbots for all but their timber oil products.

RAD Systems 05-08-2007 06:08 PM

The wood dosn't ned to breather but the moisture content neds to come down and some of the chems need to leech out for a stain/sealer to penetrate.

Use a semi-transparent penetrating oil on your deck. Buy the product from a paint store and be prepared to pay $35 per gallon. Olympic Maximum is a good store brand that holds up. Just be sure to go OIL based. I listened to a half cocked SW employee giving a customer an earful of misinformation. I waited until he was done and had to set the customer straight. Water borne products contain acrylics and they are lousy. Very hard to maintain.

Use a good cleaning and prep product to get your wood ready. Nothing with bleach in it.

ColoradoBuilder 05-09-2007 09:48 PM

I would recommend Penofin or SuperDeck oil stains. I would also try and stay in the natural wood tones and avoid colors like blue, green, and grey. A natural wood toned stain with alot of pigment will outlast a natural (clear) stain by quite a while.

As far as sanding goes there shouldn't be a problem. Use a low grit paper with alot of tooth and go to town. Sanding will tighten the grain thus causing it to possibly accept less stain so try and blend the areas you sand into unsanded areas so stain looks less blotchy.

Good luck!

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