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-   -   Deck post footings (http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/deck-post-footings-1838/)

Outbacker 02-09-2006 10:59 PM

Deck post footings
 
Hi, first post in this forum. Looks like lots of great information and tips here, and I look forward to going through the different threads.
My question is this: I am building a deck in a couple of months, and I wanted to know what everyone thought would be the best type of base for the posts. I am using the sono-tubes filled with cement, and I am either going to use the rebar post with the U shaped saddle attached to it, or I will use a J-bolt and attach the metal base to it once the cement dries using the nut and washer. Which one is better for strength and time based endurance? Thanks.

THEBIGPUNN 02-10-2006 12:11 AM

i think the major issue concerning deck building as that many do not attach the deck to the house using a ledger board. i think for strengh that is the best place to start is by attaching it to the house. from there you should contact your local building official about frost lines to see how deep the holes need to be. i am building a 14x20 deck also hopefully next month. i plan on using (6) 4x4 posts and placing them 50 inches in ground and the pouring concrete in the holes with the posts. then using 2x6's for joists using bolts.

DecksEtc 02-10-2006 07:24 AM

I always use the saddle brackets. You don't have to waste time drilling a hole in the bottom of the post and putting on the preservative into the hole you just drilled. I never put the posts into the cement - too much can go wrong and you can't make adjustments to the post once it's set in the cement.

C&D 02-10-2006 11:30 AM

Decks,
Where do you get your saddle brackets? Do you buy them off the shelf or have them custom fabbed? I'm looking for some for some 6x6 posts.

bob the builder 02-10-2006 01:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by THEBIGPUNN
i think the major issue concerning deck building as that many do not attach the deck to the house using a ledger board. i think for strengh that is the best place to start is by attaching it to the house.

I don't think that not attaching a deck to a house would be considered a major issue. The issue is that it is more posts and ultimately more work. An example would be observatory tower. Completely safe and 4 stories high....

bob

robertcdf 02-10-2006 06:57 PM

Simpson makes 6x6 post saddles they run between $10-$12 EA. I think using the U shaped saddles are the best way to go I use this method as often as possible. The absolute best way to do it if you are using PT post is to get a Stainless Steel saddle they run about $50 a piece. This is were enginering comes into play built the deck with only 2 posts by using a larger beam (LVL, GLULAM)

C&D 02-10-2006 10:26 PM

Oh, I know what you're talking about now. I was thinking of some sort of a steel/alluminum bracket that is anchored in the pier and runs up the sides of the post to prevent lateral movement. I need to find some brackets like these so I don't have to knee braces at the top.

Outbacker 02-11-2006 12:49 PM

Thank you for all ther replies. The deck will be 12X18, and will be attached to the houser with a ledger. I will have a beam and set of posts at the 6, 12 and 17 foot mark out from the house, with a 1 foot overhang at the end. I am leaning toward using the J-bolt in the concrete so I can adjust the base pieces after the concrete has dried. With the rebar and saddle attached to it, once the concrete has dried, if the saddle is a couple of degrees out of square from the house, then it will look horrible.
Thanks

tgeb 02-11-2006 06:20 PM

When we do deck footings I try to let the builder have us just pour the footings and finish them nice and level on top.

Then they can drill and set the Simpson Brackets with expanding bolts or epoxy set some threaded rod. They can be placed exactly where needed.

As you stated
Quote:

if the saddle is a couple of degrees out of square from the house, then it will look horrible.
Doing it this way helps eliminate some of the chances for error.

Tom


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