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Old 09-04-2012, 06:59 PM   #16
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We've installed Duradek Vinyl membrane which is an IRC (International Residental Code) approved "Walkable" roof membrane or over 17 years, never had to replace one. We see a lot of this expanded metal business - not so cheep or great when you get this problem. The Slope is a new
CBC code (CABuilding Code) requirement, as well as any deck like this needs to be a Class A fire rated "deck", which became law in 2012 January.

Perhapse you can shave down the joists a bit on that 10 foot run and get some slope, 1/8" in 12" is a MINIMUM! Keep in mind you should remove up to 8" of the stucco and install ANY membrane up behind the building wrap (assuming you have wrap), then install a new stucco screed and keep that
transition deck to wall at the ledger from being the problem area in future.

Too bad you can't do it the "best way possible", Looks like you're in Hemmit or somewhere - beautiful but hot.

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Old 09-04-2012, 08:05 PM   #17
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Why does the slope have to have the high side at the door?
Can't you start it high at the far wall away from the door and taper it down towards the end where the door is.
Maybe add a little compound slope in front of the door to keep the water away from the door?

Just a thought from outside the box. ( maybe too far outside?)
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Old 09-04-2012, 09:04 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Duradek Dave View Post
We've installed Duradek Vinyl membrane which is an IRC (International Residental Code) approved "Walkable" roof membrane or over 17 years, never had to replace one. We see a lot of this expanded metal business - not so cheep or great when you get this problem. The Slope is a new
CBC code (CABuilding Code) requirement, as well as any deck like this needs to be a Class A fire rated "deck", which became law in 2012 January.

Perhapse you can shave down the joists a bit on that 10 foot run and get some slope, 1/8" in 12" is a MINIMUM! Keep in mind you should remove up to 8" of the stucco and install ANY membrane up behind the building wrap (assuming you have wrap), then install a new stucco screed and keep that
transition deck to wall at the ledger from being the problem area in future.

Too bad you can't do it the "best way possible", Looks like you're in Hemmit or somewhere - beautiful but hot.
Thanks for the info on the code requirement. I looked around for the vinyl membrane, but I'm having trouble locating it in such a small surface area. Some companies only sell to licensed installers, and others sell rolls of 10'x100' or more... WAY more than I need!

As far as shaving the joists down... I'm uneasy doing that. I don't think I could get them level enough, and they already seem undersized for the job. I am going to try getting the height up more than the 1/8" /ft. I'm going to try more along the line of 3/16"-1/4".

I was trying to avoid removing stucco... But from the sound of your message, I'm guessing that's not an option. I thought the 2-3" I could get behind the flashing would be OK, but it sounds like you're recommending more like 6".

I like in the unincorporated mountains west of Hemet, south of Lake Mathews. It is beautiful but it does get a bit warm... This weekend when I was tearing the deck down it was 98-100 out.

Quote:
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Why does the slope have to have the high side at the door?
Can't you start it high at the far wall away from the door and taper it down towards the end where the door is.
Maybe add a little compound slope in front of the door to keep the water away from the door?

Just a thought from outside the box. ( maybe too far outside?)
It's always good to think outside the box.

We have eaves that cover the house on the sides, so that should do nicely on keeping the water away from the side (wind may blow it in, but at least it won't naturally run toward the house). I kinda want to keep it that way...

And a compound slope? Now you're starting to scare me....
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Old 09-05-2012, 02:39 PM   #19
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I was thinking that if you slope it the full amount the long way, you could put a smaller slope away from the door. Just to keep the water flowing away. So the shims would taper from 2" down to nothing on the long axis but the two closest to the door might taper from 2" down to 1"across the door area.
Not a builder so I can come up with these and someone else gets to tell me I'm crazy.
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Old 09-05-2012, 02:47 PM   #20
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Hmmmm..... It'd be easy to cut the isofoam and create the compound slope, and then cover it with the EDPM. The hard part would be cutting the sleepers to account for the compound angle....

The Depot hasn't called me back yet. I'm about to give them a ring and see what they found out with the Isofoam.
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Old 09-05-2012, 02:51 PM   #21
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Re. pic 5. I've heard of music being loud enough to blow the roof off the joint, but out of that little radio?
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Old 09-05-2012, 03:08 PM   #22
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must have Bose speakers in it ....
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Old 09-05-2012, 03:09 PM   #23
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Re. pic 5. I've heard of music being loud enough to blow the roof off the joint, but out of that little radio?
This is what happened when I turned it up INSIDE the house:

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Old 09-05-2012, 03:10 PM   #24
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Demo in a can .....
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Old 04-28-2013, 11:24 PM   #25
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Old 04-28-2013, 11:25 PM   #26
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Old 04-28-2013, 11:25 PM   #27
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