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-   -   Deck Over Living Space Repair *PICS* (http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/deck-over-living-space-repair-pics-155702/)

nsgoldberg 09-03-2012 02:57 PM

Deck Over Living Space Repair *PICS*
 
Hi All, first time poster here but I've used the site plenty in the past. :thumbsup:

Pics tell more than words, so I've added plenty to describe the situation. We have a deck halfway over our breakfast nook and halfway over an outside overhang. We live in So. CA, so we don't get much rain, about a week a year, but this last rain we filled up a couple 5 gallon buckets inside the house, from water leaking though the ceiling. :eek: (We just bought the house earlier this year).

Here is the deck without the railing:

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-n...0120121352.jpg

Look at these cracks!

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-1...0120121357.jpg

What the deck looks like:

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-b...7/IMG_6486.jpg

It was constructed with concrete on mesh, and then some sort of epoxy over the concrete:

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-q...0/IMG_6487.jpg

Which led to this: :eek:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-i...0120121362.jpg

Water damage on the sheetrock. Of course there was a TON of mold, so I cleaned all that out. Joists are still in good shape though.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-h...0/IMG_6485.JPG

So I looked around and did some reading, and it seems that this should have been built using a sloped joists, with plywood on the top, a layer of EPDM, and then sleepers with rubber pads placed on top of the EPDM. The water then just runs through the boards and across the EPDM, and off the roof.

However, there isn't ANY slope at all to the deck. I would add the 1/8" slope, but at 10' that amounts to 1 1/4", which I don't have between the bottom of the sliding door:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-c...7/IMG_6489.jpg

So I'm not sure how to tackle this. I could build it the same way it was originally built, and replace it again in 10-15 years. The house is 25 years old, so I guess it lasted this long. Luckily we don't get much rain here, like I said only a week a year or so.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions!

nsgoldberg 09-03-2012 03:00 PM

Here is a great PDF describing the deck over living space construction:

http://www.jlconline.com/Images/Buil...96-1086999.pdf

Basic image of a deck over living space, properly constructed (which my deck isn't):

http://www.crsupport.us/images/oth_how-build-add_94.jpg

Msradell 09-03-2012 06:42 PM

It looks like you could get the required space by removing the bottom molding from the door frame. Many times sliding doors don't use that anyway. Make sure you install new flashing against the house to the top of the new EPDM to prevent water penetration there.

GBrackins 09-04-2012 09:12 AM

if you do not slope it properly you can be back in the same place.

per Section R905.12 of the 2009 International Residential Code (basis for the California Building Code) requires that thermoset roofing (EPDM is a thermoset roofing material http://www.nrca.net/consumer/types/thermos.aspx) have a minimum 2% slope or 1/4" per foot. You can verify this requirement with your building department.

R905.12 Thermoset single-ply roofing. The installation of thermoset single-ply roofing shall comply with the provisions of this section. R905.12.1 Slope. Thermoset single-ply membrane roofs shall have a design slope of a minimum of one-fourth unit vertical in 12 units horizontal (2-percent slope) for drainage. R905.12.2 Material standards. Thermoset single-ply roof coverings shall comply with ASTM D 4637, ASTM D 5019 or CGSB 37-GP-52M. R905.12.3 Application. Thermoset single-ply roofs shall be installed according to this chapter and the manufacturer's installation instructions.

Can you raise the height of the door to facilitate the proper construction of your deck? if so you can install a platform on the interior side. just a thought ......

nsgoldberg 09-04-2012 11:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Msradell (Post 1002564)
It looks like you could get the required space by removing the bottom molding from the door frame. Many times sliding doors don't use that anyway. Make sure you install new flashing against the house to the top of the new EPDM to prevent water penetration there.

That's not a bad idea. I suppose the deck could then be almost level with the floor in the bedroom, and I could notch the deck to fit around the door.

I was planning on reusing the existing flashing since it's bonded with the stucco, and I didn't want to risk damaging the stucco. In the image below, it shows the flashing underneath the EPDM. Is that incorrect? The plan was to nail the existing flashing down to new plywood, and install the EPDM over it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by GBrackins (Post 1002912)
if you do not slope it properly you can be back in the same place.

per Section R905.12 of the 2009 International Residential Code (basis for the California Building Code) requires that thermoset roofing (EPDM is a thermoset roofing material http://www.nrca.net/consumer/types/thermos.aspx) have a minimum 2% slope or 1/4" per foot. You can verify this requirement with your building department.

R905.12 Thermoset single-ply roofing. The installation of thermoset single-ply roofing shall comply with the provisions of this section. R905.12.1 Slope. Thermoset single-ply membrane roofs shall have a design slope of a minimum of one-fourth unit vertical in 12 units horizontal (2-percent slope) for drainage. R905.12.2 Material standards. Thermoset single-ply roof coverings shall comply with ASTM D 4637, ASTM D 5019 or CGSB 37-GP-52M. R905.12.3 Application. Thermoset single-ply roofs shall be installed according to this chapter and the manufacturer's installation instructions.

Can you raise the height of the door to facilitate the proper construction of your deck? if so you can install a platform on the interior side. just a thought ......

Thanks for pulling that code up. I saw online the 1/8" figure, and over the 10' deck, that amounts to 1 1/4" which I can swing by removing the fascia under the door. However, 2 1/2" would be too high, and raising the height of the door sounds like a lot more work than I'm willing to put into it. I think I can squeeze 1 3/4", so I will probably go with the tallest height I can get without needing to adjust the door.

Just curious, is this construction anything like you've seen in the past? That isn't to code, correct?

Thanks for the help guys. Your input, plus a good nights' sleep, and I think I've got a good game plan.

patented 09-04-2012 11:12 AM

I have a flat roof that is being re-sloped in a similar manner. The roofers I hired are using Isoboard (aka Isofoam) to make the slope. It is a rigid foam product that tapers in thickness. You put the isoboard down, then install the waterproof coating over that. You get a nice flat roof with the proper pitch, and an added benefit of some extra insulation.

nsgoldberg 09-04-2012 11:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by patented (Post 1002997)
I have a flat roof that is being re-sloped in a similar manner. The roofers I hired are using Isoboard (aka Isofoam) to make the slope. It is a rigid foam product that tapers in thickness. You put the isoboard down, then install the waterproof coating over that. You get a nice flat roof with the proper pitch, and an added benefit of some extra insulation.

Isoboard sounds perfect... I was wondering how I would cut the shims thin enough to slope the plywood. I'm guessing the "foam" is strong enough to support the deck/people/furniture/etc..?

Any idea where you get the Isoboard from? Thanks for the input! :thumbsup:

GBrackins 09-04-2012 11:21 AM

make sure if you put down EPDM membrane to attach strips of the membrane onto the bottom of your sleepers so that you have membrane to membrane and not wood to membrane. patented is correct on the sloped isoboard.

could also consider a vinyl membrane product that you can walk on directly, would eliminate sleepers. http://www.duradeckinc.com/

nsgoldberg 09-04-2012 11:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GBrackins (Post 1003001)
make sure if you put down EPDM membrane to attach strips of the membrane onto the bottom of your sleepers so that you have membrane to membrane and not wood to membrane. patented is correct on the sloped isoboard.

could also consider a vinyl membrane product that you can walk on directly, would eliminate sleepers. http://www.duradeckinc.com/

I saw in the article to attach the strips; thanks for the info!

I think I'd like to go with a deck. Seems like it'd look nicer.

patented 09-04-2012 12:33 PM

You will have to google where to buy it. I think you can buy it direct from the manufacturer.

Msradell 09-04-2012 01:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GBrackins (Post 1003001)
could also consider a vinyl membrane product that you can walk on directly, would eliminate sleepers. http://www.duradeckinc.com/

That product is not a roofing membrane. It's a coating designed for application on top of concrete slabs. Not something to consider using for this application.

nsgoldberg 09-04-2012 01:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Msradell (Post 1003064)
That product is not a roofing membrane. It's a coating designed for application on top of concrete slabs. Not something to consider using for this application.


I took a look at that product and came to the same conclusion.

Thanks! :thumbsup:

GBrackins 09-04-2012 01:59 PM

sorry, wrong link ......

http://www.duradek.com/

nsgoldberg 09-04-2012 02:49 PM

Looks like a good system, and it would save time on large applications. But for my 10' x 21' area, the need to buy the hot-air gun to weld the sheets together would probably be too expensive.

I called the local Home Depot and they should be able to order the Isoboard. They're going to get back to me with the pricing.

GBrackins 09-04-2012 03:07 PM

sorry you're having to go through this .... I know it's not a fun project!

post back with any questions


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