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-   -   Deck Ledger To House Osb Rim Joist (http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/deck-ledger-house-osb-rim-joist-19947/)

munson_11 04-15-2008 07:38 AM

Deck Ledger To House Osb Rim Joist
 
I have a free standing deck that I am building attached to our newly built house. My question is that the we used 12" laminated I beams for the house, and the builder used an OSB 3/4" for the house rim joist. I do not see adequte strength in the OSB to lag bolt my deck ledger to the house? There should not be any down weight on the ledger since it was built as a free standing deck, my only concern is if the deck would try to shift away from the house over time. Should I just re-inforece the house rim joist by cutting 2x12 sections to fit inside between the house floor joist & then bolt the ledger to them through the OSB. Thank you

BuiltByMAC 04-15-2008 09:29 AM

In addition to installing the 2x12 blocking, cut plywood inserts to fill in the webbing of your I-joists, both sides, on either side of each 2x12 blocking. That way, you've got a solid surface to nail your blocking to the floor joists. Nail your webbing inserts together with a staggered pattern using 8d nails
- nail into your 2x12 blocking ends w/ 12d or 16d nails.

Best to use galvanized hex or carriage bolts w/ built up oversized galvanized washers (1/2 bolt, use 1/2", then 3/4" washer. Make sure bolt holes are properly waterproofed and stagger their location (height-wise) on the ledger board to help prevent splitting.

Strapping is another really good way to tie your deck to your house if your deck joists are in line with your house joists. Simpson MSTA straps - cut a vertical slit in the house rim joist lined up with the side of your house and deck joists, slide a 36" ZMAX strap through it and use 10d nails to nail it to the side of your deck joists and your house joists. Use a strap on each end of your deck and one in the middle, if it's longer than 20'.
Again, you'll want to fill in the webbing of those house I-joists w/ plywood on both sides so the strap is nailed to something solid, not just 5/8" of OSB.

Mac

darylbrands 04-17-2008 03:43 PM

Blocking is good. Bolting directly to your framing members or into the floor joists can also be done for added strength.

Termite 04-17-2008 04:08 PM

I wouldn't advocate doing too much to your i-joists. If you do, keep the nails in the top and bottom flanges to a minimum. Nothing larger than a 12D box nail into the flange!!! I don't see any need to make huge efforts to secure the blocking to the joists.

You're not actually bearing the deck, and the rim board is reasonably strong. I'd use carriage bolts and large washers on both sides, and perhaps install some 2x material on the interior side of the rim to spread the load a little.

Be sure to space the deck rim joist off the house a little bit to prevent rot.

LawnGuyLandSparky 04-17-2008 06:16 PM

If the house isn't supporting the deck why attach it to the house at all? These days even 2nd floor decks are built w/o attaching to the house, too many water infiltration issues.

Termite 04-17-2008 10:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LawnGuyLandSparky (Post 117153)
If the house isn't supporting the deck why attach it to the house at all? These days even 2nd floor decks are built w/o attaching to the house, too many water infiltration issues.

One word. RIGIDITY.

Water infiltration issues are easily mitigated with good installation practices.

BuiltByMAC 04-19-2008 01:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thekctermite (Post 117130)
I wouldn't advocate doing too much to your i-joists. If you do, keep the nails in the top and bottom flanges to a minimum. Nothing larger than a 12D box nail into the flange!!! I don't see any need to make huge efforts to secure the blocking to the joists.

You're not actually bearing the deck, and the rim board is reasonably strong. I'd use carriage bolts and large washers on both sides, and perhaps install some 2x material on the interior side of the rim to spread the load a little.

Be sure to space the deck rim joist off the house a little bit to prevent rot.

A couple of responses to your reply. If you'll read my post carefully, I'm talking about filling in the webbing between the flanges, not overnailing the top and bottom flanges of the I joists.

3/4" OSB face-nailed to the ends of I-joists is not a strong connection for shear forces that would pull the deck away from the house - 2 nails every 16" into plywood endgrain. To strengthen that connection, the interior blocking needs additional nailing, hence the web fillers.


Quote:

Originally Posted by LawnGuyLandSparky (Post 117153)
If the house isn't supporting the deck why attach it to the house at all? These days even 2nd floor decks are built w/o attaching to the house, too many water infiltration issues.

Not sure how you're thinking the house isn't supporting the deck...unless there are posts and a beam near the house, the house IS supporting that side of the deck.

I've not seen ANY second floor decks built freestanding w/ no connection to the house. What part of the country are you in that you see this type of construction?

Termite's got it - flashed and sealed properly, water intrusion is not an issue.

Mac

darylbrands 04-19-2008 12:41 PM

Munsons on top of things - 2 x 12 Blocking is good.
As stated by Mac - web fillers also prevent gap.
Bolt it solid as described.

My Understanding of free standing two story decks is this takes real understanding of framing and is often not advised.

Often Decks are slightly lowered where you can also attach to framing (Treated sill) for downward pressure and initial securement.


Keep Web Blocking slightly less than the total height.

Appreciate Mr. Termites comments on watching attaching into the floor joists. You do not want to crack your I joist flanges.


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