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Old 01-31-2011, 01:04 AM   #16
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deck joist to post fastening


How high off the ground?

Don't "hang" girders. Cut the posts and put the girder on top so the joists bear on the girder and the girder bears on the posts. Use a connector.

But for only spanning 100", if you used solid blocking mid-span you would be fine.

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Old 01-31-2011, 01:15 AM   #17
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Here is the minimum safety Code for Decks, read up on how posts are attached, etc. , I think it will help keep your family and visitors safer if you build to it; http://www.lancova.com/deckinfo.pdf

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Old 01-31-2011, 02:07 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by fungku View Post
How high off the ground?

Don't "hang" girders. Cut the posts and put the girder on top so the joists bear on the girder and the girder bears on the posts. Use a connector.

But for only spanning 100", if you used solid blocking mid-span you would be fine.
Thanks It is 20" above the ground. I will use 3 steps for the staircase in one corner.
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Old 01-31-2011, 02:10 AM   #19
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deck joist to post fastening


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Why do you keep avoiding the question? How come you are not getting permits and inspections for your deck?

Are you above the rules? Do you always do illegal things and come on the internet and ask questions about doing something illegal?
are you like a municipal building police or spy or something?
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Old 01-31-2011, 02:20 AM   #20
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deck joist to post fastening


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are you like a municipal building police or spy or something?
Why do you keep avoiding the question? How come you are not getting permits and inspections for your deck?

Are you above the rules? Do you always do illegal things and come on the internet and ask questions about doing something illegal?
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Old 01-31-2011, 02:24 AM   #21
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are you like a municipal building police or spy or something?
Sounds like a concerned, law-abiding person to me. He likely wouldn't have asked if your questions weren't so off-the wall and indicating you really do have no idea what you are doing. At least building inspectors would make sure it is built to some sort of standard. Deck collapses are real, and not uncommon, and they do injure and kill people.

At least it is only 20" high
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Old 01-31-2011, 02:28 AM   #22
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What I'd be concerned about is the ledger flashing detail.
do you mean this: http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/how-...189560,00.html ?
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Old 01-31-2011, 02:38 AM   #23
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one question since I am not quite picturing this ( I am tired worked 2 jobs today).

You are spanning 100" at 20" off the ground with ledgers on the house and shed correct?

Why are you adding a girder to the middle of it? What size are your joist? IF I were you I would save a bunch of money and go bigger with your joist.
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Old 01-31-2011, 02:38 AM   #24
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Yes, but in my opinion, the housewrap/moisture barrier or a vycor type product should overlap the flashing. The photo below from BuiltByMac has all three.



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one question since I am not quite picturing this ( I am tired worked 2 jobs today).

You are spanning 100" at 20" off the ground with ledgers on the house and shed correct?

Why are you adding a girder to the middle of it? What size are your joist? IF I were you I would save a bunch of money and go bigger with your joist.
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But for only spanning 100", if you used solid blocking mid-span you would be fine.

Last edited by fungku; 01-31-2011 at 02:50 AM.
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Old 01-31-2011, 02:39 AM   #25
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deck joist to post fastening


is it necessary to protect the shed side ledger since that one is nailed directly into the shed studs before i posted sheathing. then there is 7/16 sheathing starting right above the ledger, spaced about 1/8" to provide for OSB expansion. then there will be cedar siding over that so the ledger will be entirely covered. i understand i need to do it on the house side but should i also do it on the shed side considering the very peculiar use case scenario described above?
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Old 01-31-2011, 02:41 AM   #26
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Yes, but the housewrap/moisture barrier needs to overlap the flashing. I wouldn't use that photo as a reference since that is one step in the process.
dude, this is being retrofit. the house is old, actually the extension to the house and it doesn't have housewrap under the siding. which is peeling off and needs to be resided anyway so i will do i when i do that. but thanks for the pointer.
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Old 01-31-2011, 02:45 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by proremodel View Post
one question since I am not quite picturing this ( I am tired worked 2 jobs today).

You are spanning 100" at 20" off the ground with ledgers on the house and shed correct?

Why are you adding a girder to the middle of it? What size are your joist? IF I were you I would save a bunch of money and go bigger with your joist.
100x90, 100 sides against the house and shed, 90" between. the house and shed have ledgers and i set 3 piers in between (cca 45"), equally spaced, so that i can set 6x6 posts to rest middle girders on for added firmness.
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Old 01-31-2011, 02:57 AM   #28
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dude, this is being retrofit. the house is old, actually the extension to the house and it doesn't have housewrap under the siding. which is peeling off and needs to be resided anyway so i will do i when i do that. but thanks for the pointer.
must be real old if it doesn't even have paper. the house in the photo I posted was retrofit too, but it had existing housewrap. I guess just don't forget to do it when you reside.

And yes the shed needs flashing too.

Last edited by fungku; 01-31-2011 at 02:59 AM.
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Old 01-31-2011, 03:00 AM   #29
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100x90, 100 sides against the house and shed, 90" between. the house and shed have ledgers and i set 3 piers in between (cca 45"), equally spaced, so that i can set 6x6 posts to rest middle girders on for added firmness.
That is what I am getting at you don't need the middle girder. I am not going to say a permit will help you or not but a 2x10 at 90" at 16 on center even 12 on center. That deck will be as strong as a brick house. I mean do the quick math-- I have no clue how much you have done in the construction world but normally we span 15 feet with 2x12's.

How I would build it----

2x12 ledgers (house and shed-- flashed correctly)
2x10 joists (16 on center)
2x8/10 hangers on each joist

maybe just maybe block the center at 50" but not needed.
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Old 01-31-2011, 10:48 AM   #30
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thanks proremodel - maybe the fact that my ledgers are only 2x8, as are the joists makes the case for the girder. i am all set to build it - i just need to cut the posts shorter than originally and incorrectly thought that joists would go directly against them but you guys have educated me here.

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