DECK decking nails vs screws ...

christian15213 · 04-13-2005, 10:27 PM

Here it is, what is better for the top decking part, nails or screws. I have heard screws are way better than nails and that deck mate screws are really good.

Also, if you're knowledgeble about building decks could you give good methods for screwing screws because it can be a great harder deal than nailing.

Thanks for your response...

housedocs · 04-14-2005, 04:12 AM

Absolutely no way I would ever recommend nailing down deck boards. You're just askin for headaches from them pulling and standing proud in just a few months. If you're planning on surface screws, I highly resommend Split Stopper Screws, these are made by Titan Metal Works, yes they're expensive, but they are absolutely worth every penny.

I would recommend that you choose a hidden fastener system for your decking, it just looks so much better, and in my mind anywya more than justifies the added expense in the construction of the deck. But if you're on a beer budget, go with the Split-Stoppers. Here's a link to thier website http://www.splitstop.com/

Hope that helps out. Good luck!:D

christian15213 · 04-14-2005, 11:24 AM

do they sell split stop at home depot or lowes? if so I will get them...

Thanks for the advice

MinConst · 04-14-2005, 09:50 PM

Screws are far better for deck boards. Deck Mate are pretty good. Although not the best they are decent. Nails have their place in framing the deck especially when sheer strength is needed.

If you are concerned about using screws and it being more work. If you use a screw gun the work is much easier. Actually I find my arms feel much better after a day of screwing as opposed to nailing, setting etc. (no pun intended)

The only thing you will want to watch is getting the boards tight to the joist before setting the screw. Most times you can draw them down but if you don't they will stand proud forever. Sometimes I find a clamp necessary. Not often but once in awhile.

Teetorbilt · 04-14-2005, 10:44 PM

I only use SS screws. In the 3-1/2" size, the top is necked to allow the threads to pull down the planks.

housedocs · 04-15-2005, 01:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by christian15213

do they sell split stop at home depot or lowes? if so I will get them...

Thanks for the advice

To my knowledge no the SS screws aren't available in either the orange or blue boxes, but then so few good products are,

but that's for a different thread.

Two options, one, go to this page put in your zip code & it'll tell you if you have a local dealer. If no local dealer available, go to this page that center choice will easily do a average size deck, $84 plus shipping, they'll be at your door in about 3 days, or go to your local lumberyard and ask them to order some for you, you'll pay a tad more, but you'll be doing everyone in town a favor.:D I was ording them online, but now my local yard carries them.

One more tip for deck building, never never use phillips head screws, you'll most likely strip more than you'll sink. Use a torx (star) head or square head, but the split-stops are the best!

Mikezj · 05-02-2005, 07:46 PM

How do you start your first deck board for a 12 by 18ft deck on a Diagonal.

Thank You
Mike

MinConst · 05-02-2005, 08:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mikezj

How do you start your first deck board for a 12 by 18ft deck on a Diagonal.

MikeZ,
You may get differing opinions but I start at the longest and work from there. You use the longest sections first and start cutting from there. Are you going at a 45 or less. Make sure the joists are spaced accordingly. 45 degree deck = 12" oc joists. less could require 10"oc.

CGofMP · 05-02-2005, 08:51 PM

Quote:

One more tip for deck building, never never use phillips head screws, you'll most likely strip more than you'll sink. Use a torx (star) head or square head,...!

That is SO true... Square drive are SO much better than phillips, but every once in a while.....

I just finished 10 feet of porch railing consisting of 3 main 4x posts, 10 2x 'jailhouse bars' connecting the 2x6 top rail and the lower rail, and 2 - 10 foot 1x3s to add to the aesthetic value and add a tiny bit of strength and steadiness and to tie it all together.

I bought square drive Stainless Screws for the main run and some phosphate coated philips which I intended to use only in unseen weather protected areas (under the 1x3's on the 2x4s).

In the past my limited experience with square drive was VASTLY superior to philips, as said above, little slippage and just a down right good feel driving them. Not this time.. not at all.

I had more problems with the square drive SS screws than I could believe. Stripped heads, bent shafts, BAD marring and stripping of the drive hole to the point that they could not be gripped. On more than one occasion I had to use vice grips to grab the head and turn the screw out to put another in.

This was on PREDRILLED and countersunk FIR and a little redwood!

The philips on the other hand went right in and caused me not a lick of trouble. Talk about a contrast and talk about the OPPOSITE of what I am used to...

I really wanted to use the Stainless but I was 45 miles from anyplace that sold them so I used the phosphate coated for the entire project instead. As all the screw holes were to be caulked or covered with wood buttons it shouldnt become a problem, but I'd sure have liked to use the stainless for most of it.

I still prefer square drive, but I will not be buying the brand of SS that I got this last time next tiime I need SS screws.