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Old 03-26-2013, 09:13 AM   #301
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Do like Joe said and install blocks on the inside to prevent the pushing out effect.

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Old 03-26-2013, 09:15 AM   #302
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Nope. I mentioned it to him and he said he called an inspector and he said it was fine as long as it wasn't notched to thin. They all have about 2" on the thin part so if it passes inspection I'm okay with it. I might see if I can strengthen it up a little anyway. Just for more peace of mind. Any ideas?

as long as the posts are bolted correctly and the rim board is braced correctly that is about as far as you can go with the system and the only limitation is the 11 -1/4" of available flat against the rim board to work with. The entire rail system is the key to making it all strong and locked together, start with adequate bolts through post into the rim and make the railings strong and that is the entire system...
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Old 03-26-2013, 09:22 AM   #303
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as long as the posts are bolted correctly and the rim board is braced correctly that is about as far as you can go with the system and the only limitation is the 11 -1/4" of available flat against the rim board to work with. The entire rail system is the key to making it all strong and locked together, start with adequate bolts through post into the rim and make the railings strong and that is the entire system...
They will be 2 bolts staggered on each post going through the thin part and the 2 2x12 rim boards. They have to be 1" from edge on opposite sides top and bottom.

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Old 03-26-2013, 02:02 PM   #304
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I'm not sure what your county requires, but Fairfax county requires the outter joist be tied to the inner joist, be it a rim joist, or just an outter joist. There is different hardware that you can use to tie the outter/rim joist to an inner joist and pass code here. One is a stud tie plate at the top and bottom of the joist blocking (inside and outside also), which means 4 stud tie plates for 1 piece of blocking, and another is a hardware that uses a bolt and nut I believe, forget the name of it. If you use either of the methods it should be very solid. Of course, notching the post now makes the weak part for you the notched post rather than the outter joist flexing, and there's no way to fix that short of replacing the 4x4 posts. Whether it's really "necessary" is debatable of course. I think you could have a basketball team run full steam at my railing and it wouldn't break, yet my neighbors old deck railing would probably break from just leaning on it.. Some would argue the current code is overkill..
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Old 03-26-2013, 02:35 PM   #305
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another is a hardware that uses a bolt and nut I believe, forget the name of it.
is this what you mean http://www.strongtie.com/products/connectors/DTT2.asp
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Old 03-26-2013, 02:48 PM   #306
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Yep.. forget how many you need per code, but think for the rim joist you need one on each joist to the left and right of the railing post location, and outter joist on the inside and outside of the blocking.
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Old 03-26-2013, 08:14 PM   #307
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I used those as tension ties connecting the deck to the house. One in each end.
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Old 03-26-2013, 08:22 PM   #308
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they are also shown in the Residential Wood Deck Construction Guide for post attachment.
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Old 03-27-2013, 06:54 AM   #309
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Man...what we do without Simpson? Seems all they need to do is develop a new hanger/bracket and the code writers will find some place to use it.

Exactly the reason I put my posts inside, thru bolted to double blocking. Posts become even more rigid once you get the decking snugged up against them.

You do lose some space that way but Ive never had a customer question my method. And code inspectors never give them a second look.
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Old 03-27-2013, 08:07 AM   #310
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Some of the posts have been bolted down and they are strong! They are being left notched with 2" of "meat" on the thin side and I have put them to the test to say the least. Lol

A couple of those are bolted through a 6x6 also which I'm sure helps.
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Old 03-27-2013, 05:31 PM   #311
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Everything is done except the stair rails and the rail caps. All hand rails are up. I think I would have finished up myself if I knew I could cut the rails right but it'll get done tomorrow. Inspection set for Friday morning since I had an inkling that it wouldn't get finished today. I'll post pictures when I get home from work tomorrow. It SHOULD be 100% complete then.
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Old 03-28-2013, 08:07 AM   #312
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depending on the rail type make sure the hand rails are routed to smooth the edges if they are sharp edges and are splinter prone. I'd recommend routing with a small roundover first and then a few years later after wear has set in round it over again with a larger round over, this will help keep check of the splintering and you live there so doing this would work in your case if needed...
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Old 03-28-2013, 11:25 AM   #313
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I built it too last year...

Lucky time for price of the wood at this time !
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Old 03-28-2013, 04:35 PM   #314
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It's all done. At least 99.9% anyway. There are a few posts that stick out above the vinyl sleeve that needs to be cut down so I can put caps on them. I'm guessing a hack saw will do the trick? I'm so done with the whole process that I'm not going to mention it to him. Final inspection is tomorrow morning and I'm praying it passes. I will be at work so I can't be here which sucks but it is what it is.
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Old 03-28-2013, 04:59 PM   #315
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One more thing I'd like to add are the pieces that go under the middle of the rails to prevent sagging. I thought they came with something but apparently now. What can I use?

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