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Old 03-23-2013, 08:52 PM   #286
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Just chill out until the inspector comes.

Notched post used to be common place in my neck of the woods and I still see it done.

I've had inspectors that that were on top of new codes before I even new them and others that were just plain clueless.

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Old 03-23-2013, 09:05 PM   #287
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When you install the post on the inside of the rim joist you have to add blocking to support the deck boards around the post.
http://www.decks.com/deckbuilding/De...ost_Attachment
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Old 03-23-2013, 10:09 PM   #288
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kwikfishron
Just chill out until the inspector comes.

Notched post used to be common place in my neck of the woods and I still see it done.

I've had inspectors that that were on top of new codes before I even new them and others that were just plain clueless.
How strong is it though? If a couple people leaned on the same railing would it break the post? Could I add a long flat metal bracket to the back of the posts to make it stronger? Should be enough room in the vinyl sleeve to cover a thin gauge steel bracket I think.
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Old 03-24-2013, 06:35 AM   #289
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The other reason I put posts inboard is so I can bolt them to a joist, or to blocking nailed between joists. To me it makes more sense than attaching them to the rim which is just nailed to the joist ends.

Also, post wraps wont look right with 10" of the post sticking out of the bottom of the wrap.


Edit to add: The post bases/trim wont work with the post hanging over the edge.

Last edited by 12penny; 03-24-2013 at 08:24 AM.
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Old 03-24-2013, 06:55 AM   #290
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Most of that flexing your feeling could be the rim joist twisting when pressures applyed. Add the blocking under the deck and it should stop.
Main reason on larger decks I like to use a double rim joist.
Did he at least through bolt the post, and not just use lags?
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Old 03-24-2013, 08:19 AM   #291
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joecaption
Most of that flexing your feeling could be the rim joist twisting when pressures applyed. Add the blocking under the deck and it should stop.
Main reason on larger decks I like to use a double rim joist.
Did he at least through bolt the post, and not just use lags?
He hasn't yet but he's going to because I bought all the bolts for it and code requires it.

Last edited by nikeman; 03-24-2013 at 08:37 AM.
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Old 03-24-2013, 08:38 AM   #292
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As Joe mentioned,where the joists run parallel to the rim board make sure there is blocking in the joist bays where the posts are to keep the rim board from swaying from the vertical pressure applied to the posts, and/or also add consecutive blocking down through the whole bay. this is usually not an issue where the joists run perpendicular to the rim board and connect to the rim board. strong railing like a 2x6 help to make the whole system stronger as well.
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Old 03-24-2013, 08:42 AM   #293
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hand drive
As Joe mentioned,where the joists run parallel to the rim board make sure there is blocking in the joist bays where the posts are to keep the rim board from swaying from the vertical pressure applied to the posts, and/or also add consecutive blocking down through the whole bay. this is usually not an issue where the joists run perpendicular to the rim board and connect to the rim board. strong railing like a 2x6 help to make the whole system stronger as well.
The side rim boards are doubled up 2x12 and there are pieces of 2x12 between each joist right down the middle. They didn't wobble at all even before the decking was installed.
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Old 03-24-2013, 09:12 AM   #294
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with a strong rail system and correct bolts used on the posts I honestly think you will be fine and lots here think the same. none of us are your inspector though?? call the inspector before you spend more time on the project and make sure what you have will pass before having to take stuff apart later. it is always easier to ask first and build second...
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Old 03-24-2013, 09:18 AM   #295
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According to most building codes a guardrail must be able to resist a 200 pound lateral load applied at any point along the top rail. The code uses a 2-1/2:1 safety factor so the theoretical load would be 500 pounds. A guard post acts as a lever providing a mechanical advantage. With a guard post being 36" above the deck 3' x 500 pounds = 1500 ft-pounds (more or less) of force being applied to the rim joist. If the posts are not properly secured you can peel off your rim.

Research that was performed at Virginia Tech in regards to code compliant deck construction led to the numerous changes in the way we construct code-compliant decks. Here are some interesting articles for those with inquiring minds ..... plus Nike it will give you something to do and not worry so much about when your deck will be completed ....

http://www.vt.edu/spotlight/impact/2...ty/safety.html

http://www.dickseibert.com/Woeste.pdf

http://www.beverlyma.gov/docs/dm/Decks-Coastal.pdf

http://www.nadra.org/industry_news/april07_woodbits.pdf
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Old 03-24-2013, 09:18 AM   #296
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hand drive View Post
with a strong rail system and correct bolts used on the posts I honestly think you will be fine and lots here think the same. none of us are your inspector though?? call the inspector before you spend more time on the project and make sure what you have will pass before having to take stuff apart later. it is always easier to ask first and build second...
Good advise here! But, shoulda been done right the first time.
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Old 03-24-2013, 09:29 AM   #297
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All true. The fact that it says in all capital letters "DO NOT NOTCH" where it talks about guard rails makes me not want to take the chance. If I call and ask I know they will say its not allowed. I'd much rather have it done right and no that it will pass. The one board beside the house has some extra notches to go around some wire the big metal conduit that goes down from the panel and under the house. That board I'm thinking will be a pita to replace but the rest might not be bad.
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Old 03-25-2013, 08:04 PM   #298
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Would it work if I laid the decking boards down, traced out where the posts will go through, and use an oscillating tool to cut out the squares? This seems like the easiest and fastest way to make clean cuts. Why would this not work?
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Old 03-26-2013, 06:28 AM   #299
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I use a jig saw...but whatever works for you.

Is your contractor "off the job"?
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Old 03-26-2013, 08:46 AM   #300
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 12penny
I use a jig saw...but whatever works for you.

Is your contractor "off the job"?
Nope. I mentioned it to him and he said he called an inspector and he said it was fine as long as it wasn't notched to thin. They all have about 2" on the thin part so if it passes inspection I'm okay with it. I might see if I can strengthen it up a little anyway. Just for more peace of mind. Any ideas?

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