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Old 02-04-2013, 05:52 PM   #16
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and remember, if you install posts within 2' of the existing dwelling the foundation (sonotubes, etc.) need to be as deep as the footings on the house. See Figure 21 on page 14

http://www.awc.org/publications/DCA/DCA6/DCA6-09.pdf

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Old 02-04-2013, 09:30 PM   #17
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Thanks guys. Building it myself is a last resort. I have 2 or 3 guys coming out tomorrow to give me some quotes. I got one estimate for $3500 for labor and materials which seems good considering I just got a material estimate for $2200. Do you guys think the materials listed are good? Will I need more than what's listed. I like the idea of using screws over nails just because of what I'm seeing with my current deck.
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Old 02-05-2013, 08:48 AM   #18
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Yes, screws are definitely the way to go. But be sure to use ACQ-rated screws. The chemicals in today's PT lumber will eat up regular screws in very little time.
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Old 02-05-2013, 09:36 AM   #19
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Want to save some money, ask them to give you a price on just building the framing and you do the decking. Time is money.
Another way is to use ceramic coated decking screws instead of stainless steel. I like them better because stainless is a soft metal and you will get more cam outs.
Call Miss Utilty to mark the lines.
Do you have town water and sewer?
If not there not going to make anything but Cable power and phone lines so you'll have to find out where your well and sewer lines are.

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Old 02-05-2013, 10:21 AM   #20
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The reason that many building codes now require decks to be free standing is embodied in the post by Newdoityourself guy. Most people do not know how load calculations are made, or how to apply them. Thats why so many decks fall down.

How hard anything is to do is entirely related to the ability and experience of the person doing the work, and the adequacy and quality of the tools that person possesses. That would seem to be rather self evident, would it not?

So far, the composites show me nothing. Very expensive, and they deteriorate faster than real wood. There are several class action lawsuits against the manufacturers of these materials.
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Old 02-05-2013, 10:33 AM   #21
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Regarding the materials list.. Maybe you guys have eagle eyes but I was having trouble reading it on my monitor. First off I'll say the prices look pretty good (cheaper than what I paid), so that's good. But, not sure if someone else mentioned it, but I didn't see any 6x6 posts in the materials list. I'd personally use 6x6's over 4x4's. Also, of course all the other hardware will have to be added.. nails, screws, concrete for the footings, hurricane ties, bolts/washers/nuts for the beam to joist connections, and probably some other things. For all the hardware and concrete you're looking at several hundred dollars more.

No question free standing is the preferable method. If your deck is currently attached via a ledger board to the house, plan on installing footings close to the house, which means a little more for materials cost (and labor).

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Old 02-05-2013, 12:38 PM   #22
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I found a guy who is affordable and he gave me some pictures of a deck he recently built. He recommended the vinyl hand rails and said they are not to much more than wood rails. He's coming by later to talk more.



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Old 02-05-2013, 12:40 PM   #23
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I plan on tearing down the old deck and stairs myself to save time and labor. Being the the dump will not take all that wood with nails on it I was wondering if burning all the wood down and collecting the nails after would be a good option? What would you guys do?
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Old 02-05-2013, 01:19 PM   #24
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Here's my current deck.




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Old 02-05-2013, 01:21 PM   #25
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That deck looks nice, but wouldn't pass code in this county, and many for that matter. I'd double check what your code allows (assuming you have a building code) before building anything. Not sure if you plan on pulling a permit or what. 6x6 posts are required now over 4x4. Some may say that's overkill for a low deck but I wouldn't mind the extra stability. Also, the beams must rest ON the posts and must be fastened w/ through bolts. If you look at the link I posted w/ the pdf you'll see where the differences are.

Your dump won't take wood with nails on it? That sounds really odd.. that can't be right. PT wood has some nasty **** in the wood, and burning it is a very bad idea. I would call up your dump again and see what they recommend for disposing of PT wood. When people demo things they don't go and individually pull nails and screws out of each board.. something sounds off.

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Old 02-05-2013, 01:30 PM   #26
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That's what I thought about burning. I have taken wood with nails in it before and they gave me a hard time about it. Because I had so much they said something about me not being in the demo profession or some crap like that. It was a long time ago and I will have A LOT more wood this time around. My dump is a little retarded I think because they tell you to through EVERYTHING in the household bin. I have seen couches in that thing before, but they want to give me a hard time for trying to through a computer desk in the bulk bin without breaking it up first! When I go I get all my stuff out and I leave as fast as I can but with several truck loads of naily wood its going to give them plenty of time to hassle me while not helping me unload like I thought they were supposed to. Don't get me started. Lol
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Old 02-05-2013, 01:36 PM   #27
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Oh ya.. regarding the railings.. the white/vinyl railings are nice as they are low maintenance and aren't that expensive making them worth it over PT if you like the look. There are many brands and some are much better than others. Perhaps your installer can recommend one.
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Old 02-05-2013, 01:38 PM   #28
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Also, he is going to use 6x6's on my deck since its tall. He said he goes by code on everything so I guess that deck was to code for the circumstances? He also said he only uses screws and a certain type due to the pressure treated wood just like you guys mentioned. He has 14 years experience and seems to know his stuff. He said he would attach it to the house with some sort of bracings instead of a ledger and using thick long lag bolts every 16" or so because its more sturdy that way and with freestanding decks the deck would start to shake eventually over time. I wasn't sure what he was talking about their but sounds good.
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Old 02-05-2013, 01:40 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NewHomeDIYGuy
Oh ya.. regarding the railings.. the white/vinyl railings are nice as they are low maintenance and aren't that expensive making them worth it over PT if you like the look. There are many brands and some are much better than others. Perhaps your installer can recommend one.
He did recommend a brand along with the caps and decorative footings to cover cut marks near the posts. I wish I could remember the brand name now because I wanted to look it up. It's the brand he used in the pictures.
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Old 02-05-2013, 02:03 PM   #30
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What is the difference between salt and pressure treated wood? Which is better for a deck?

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