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Old 04-04-2014, 03:32 PM   #1
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Deck Build


Okay DIYers, I'm planning a deck build. I'm in FL. The deck will square off a L in the back yard with the short side being 16' and the long side being 30'. It will only be about 2' off the ground at the deck. I know, it's big. I'm thinking of pilings along the short side being every 5' with a 1' cantilever on the end.

Pilings will be 4x4 unless you think I should go with 6x6. They will be sunk into 2' of concrete.

I would like to do steps all the way around. I've never done stair stringers but I'm sure I can figure it out.

A friend just built a 15x20 deck using 2x8 lumber. He says it is pretty solid.

Suggestions?

Thanks.

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Old 04-04-2014, 03:56 PM   #2
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Cosmic..... Little vague for any structural comments....

Do you have to permit down there where you are.......

My only comment would be, and it is a personal consideration only, I would really consider a trex/composit/other surfacing.... unless you like maintenance.

Years ago, I put 1200 feet on my personal home, redwood, and have to maintence it every other year.

I have not put on a wood surface in years.... everything new around here is composit ....every once in a while repair one.

Good luck

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Old 04-04-2014, 06:38 PM   #3
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4x4 posts wont pass for supporting a deck in most regions, they want 6x6.. the only time 4x4 is ok is for handrails and thats it.

as for 2x8 joists for 16' span, not a chance thats too long of a span, the only way you can do it without the joists deflecting is to have 2 beams, one at mid span and one at the edge
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Old 04-04-2014, 07:19 PM   #4
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Need to make an appointment with your local building inspector.
Notched 6 X 6's. Or post caps on top of the 6 X 6's is the norm. not 4 X 4's anymore.
Sona tubes with post bases to reduce the chance of rot to the post.
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Old 04-04-2014, 10:10 PM   #5
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4x4 may work.... you need to read the restrictions though; most of them- check with local AHJ- see if you are under the prescriptive Deck Code 2009-- eg; "

Commentary page C6
POST REQUIREMENTS
Assuming that identical species will be used for joists and beams, an analysis of Table 3 reveals that a maximum tributary area of approximately 81 71 ft2 will result if southern pine is used (see calculations under FOOTINGS for LJ = 18'-0" and LB = 8'-0" 7'-0" for 2-2x12). This results in a load on the post of 4,061 3,562 lbs. A 4x4 southern pine No. 2 post 10' in height would work in this situation (assuming pinned end fixity). Similarly, for other Table 3 species, assuming joists and beams are the same species, a maximum

DCA 6 2009 IRC Version Addendum May 2013 Page 4
post load of 3,717 lbs is calculated. A 4x4 No. 2 post 8' in height will work in this case (western cedar controls). If different species are used for joists than are used for beams, an analysis is required to determine the maximum tributary area on the post.

From page 30; “POST REQUIREMENTS
IRC section R407.3 specifies a minimum 4x4 (nominal) wood column size

For 3-ply 2x beams, a post cap is required since the remaining cross section at the post notch would not be sufficient to provide adequate connection of the beam to the column. The connector shown in Figure 10 is readily available with extra corrosion protection and offers uplift and lateral load resistance.” From; http://www.awc.org/Publications/DCA/DCA6/DCA6-09.pdf

#13; ; Deck wood question

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Old 04-05-2014, 07:49 AM   #6
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That's a great link. Thanks. I think that will give me most of the info I need. This will be be open on two sides and attached on one side of the 16' and 30', the back has a bedroom that sticks out on one side. I'm working on a drawing. Should I run the decking the long way or the short way? The wife is saying the long way.
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Old 04-05-2014, 08:00 AM   #7
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decking usually looks best parallel to house but for a 30 ft deck there will be butt seams so consider going perpendicular to house to eliminate seams. one way to deal with butt seams if you have to have them is to cut them at 10 to 12 degrees so that there is a tiny bit of angle there and not a vertical cut. it keeps water from seeping directly in and the tiny angle will keep the seam from curling up over time like a full 45 degree seam would.
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Old 04-05-2014, 08:21 AM   #8
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I am only coming up about 22" from grade to the top of the deck.
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Old 04-05-2014, 09:19 AM   #9
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If at all possible make the deck free standing.
That way there's 0 chance of damage to the house walls.
Never have a deck even with the doors threshold!
It needs to be at least 2" below it or waters going to get in under the door.
Never have the decking tight to the siding!
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Old 04-05-2014, 09:26 AM   #10
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Quote:
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decking usually looks best parallel to house but for a 30 ft deck there will be butt seams so consider going perpendicular to house to eliminate seams. one way to deal with butt seams if you have to have them is to cut them at 10 to 12 degrees so that there is a tiny bit of angle there and not a vertical cut. it keeps water from seeping directly in and the tiny angle will keep the seam from curling up over time like a full 45 degree seam would.
Just a personal consideration.... but I'm very fond of diagonal from an aesthetic standpoint... You might want to consider.

Also realize/consider decking direction will affect your substructure in terms of labor and costs.

If going diagonal, consider your allowable decking spans, especially if you are in a composit.
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Old 04-05-2014, 09:41 AM   #11
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Just a personal consideration.... but I'm very fond of diagonal from an aesthetic standpoint... You might want to consider.

Also realize/consider decking direction will affect your substructure in terms of labor and costs.

If going diagonal, consider your allowable decking spans, especially if you are in a composit.
yep,decking run perpendicular to house needs the joists running parallel to house so that involves middle girders or two sets of girders depending on deck size. decking run parallel to house needs joists running perpendicular to house so either free standing or bolted to house band...
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Old 04-05-2014, 10:09 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by joecaption View Post
If at all possible make the deck free standing.
That way there's 0 chance of damage to the house walls.
Never have a deck even with the doors threshold!
It needs to be at least 2" below it or waters going to get in under the door.
Never have the decking tight to the siding!
Got it. Stucco, no siding.
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Old 04-05-2014, 10:14 AM   #13
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I was originally going to attach a ledger. Now I'm reconsidering. I remember as a kid when a family friend built a deck for us in NH. It was NOT attached to the house as he said it would transmit noise to the home when somebody was on the deck and it allowed for the difference in movement. I still like the ledger idea as it gives me a solid starting point. Back to scratching my head.
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Old 04-05-2014, 10:24 AM   #14
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well, your height is something to consider. for a free standing your bracing will go into dirt at the height you mentioned 22" to the top. that does not leave much room until you are into the dirt. because you have stucco that does make it harder to attach to house and get it flashed correctly. you would have to demo stucco up the wall enough to fit flashingt and then re stucco down to deck with a metal end piece and also take out door and flash underneath and re set door.
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Old 04-05-2014, 10:28 AM   #15
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Not sure I need to do the flashing. There are awnings above both of the back doors. Even during a good rain with wind here in SoFla the sills are generally dry. Just a little blown water but NO dripping anywhere.

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