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-   -   Deck - 45 spindles - advice wanted (pics inside) (http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/deck-45-spindles-advice-wanted-pics-inside-579/)

Kevin K 05-03-2005 10:22 AM

Deck - 45 spindles - advice wanted (drawings inside)
 
OK, here's what we want to build.
http://www.smalltowncustoms.com/stor...rnating45s.jpg

The deck is easy, the railing doesn't look too hard, but I'd still like some tips and tricks if you've got any.

I'm going to use the standard 2x2 pressure treated spindles for the 45s.
2x6 top rail (gotta have room for a big beer mug :) )
2x4 laid flat for the center horizontal rail, and same for the bottom rail.
The drawing isn't exactly accurate, I need to have the bottom of the rail about 4" off the deck surface, to make sweeping/shovelling easier.
What is the best way to fasten the spindles in place? I'd thought about temporarily holding them in place with 2" brad nails, and then screwing everything once it's all in place. Does that sound like a good idea?

Any suggestions? Thanks!

Kevin

Kevin K 05-03-2005 11:10 AM

I'd also like to ask another question.

The long span of railing on the right hand side will be a straight run, no corners. It's 18'-0" long. The 4' OC posts will be bolted into the rim joist. Are there better ways of supporting the railing? I'd hate for it to be shaky/wobbly.

Thanks again.

Kevin

http://www.smalltowncustoms.com/stor...arerailing.jpg

Kevin K 05-03-2005 02:40 PM

Does anyone have any input on this?

Teetorbilt 05-03-2005 07:04 PM

Kevin, give it a little time. There are more than one contractor that visits here but you have to wait until they get off work sometimes.

Kevin K 05-03-2005 07:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Teetorbilt
Kevin, give it a little time. There are more than one contractor that visits here but you have to wait until they get off work sometimes.

Understood. Slow day at work = little patience. :(

:D

MinConst 05-03-2005 09:05 PM

One thought comes to mind. Cut dados into the 2x4s both sides for the centers, oe dado on the bottom 2x4 and one on the top 2x6 so you eliminate the spindle from turning and one screw top and bottom. I'd also add a small amout of glue to help hold them.
As for the 4x4 post question. Notching them will help stiffen them up but will also leave more area for rot. Three good bolts should suffice. Use glue if you want the extra firmness. It will also keep moisture from entering the joint.
Of course a good exterior glue is needed. Gorilla comes to mind.
Have fun. It looks like a nice design. Let us see the finished pictures. And then again next year :)

DecksEtc 05-04-2005 02:26 AM

Also, to limit any "wobbling" in the railing, keep your 4x4's no more than 4 ft. apart. I'd also suggest that you use a 4x4 post at the top of your stair handrail (right side of your pic). If you notch them like Paul suggested, you sould use end grain preservative on the cut sides to help prevent rot - actually, you should seal all your cut ends with it. All my PT cut ends get sealed. It adds to construction time but it's time well spent.

Another suggestion, use a 2x4 at the top of your railing, fasten all the ballusters from the top of the 2x4 and then top it all off with a 5/4 x 6 board. The 5/4 board will give you the width you need as well as serving to cover the screws you used to fasten the ballusters.

Kevin K 05-04-2005 12:08 PM

Great advice guys...thanks very much.


Terry, I had already changed the drawing to show a 4x4 post at the end of the stair rail.

What I've done in the past to battle the wobbles, is to notch the 4x4, and slide it into a 2x4 hole cut in the decking, right up against the joist. The 4x4 can then be lagged into the joist from the back side, and is held captive by the tight fitting hole in the decking. Does that make sense?

DecksEtc 05-06-2005 10:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kevin K
What I've done in the past to battle the wobbles, is to notch the 4x4, and slide it into a 2x4 hole cut in the decking, right up against the joist. The 4x4 can then be lagged into the joist from the back side, and is held captive by the tight fitting hole in the decking. Does that make sense?

Kevin, I do the same thing. I always screw 5 or so 3 1/2" screws in from the front of the post as well. Another option is to have the posts sit inside the frame, lag bolt right threw the frame and post from the front, screw it and then cut the deck boards around it at the top - then your skirting will cover over the screws and lag bolt. The other option I just suggested is what I always do for second story decks.

Be sure to posts pics when you're done.

BTW, what material are you using for the decking and railings?

Kevin K 05-06-2005 11:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DecksEtc
Kevin, I do the same thing. I always screw 5 or so 3 1/2" screws in from the front of the post as well. Another option is to have the posts sit inside the frame, lag bolt right threw the frame and post from the front, screw it and then cut the deck boards around it at the top - then your skirting will cover over the screws and lag bolt. The other option I just suggested is what I always do for second story decks.

Be sure to posts pics when you're done.

BTW, what material are you using for the decking and railings?

Sweet. Glad I'm not the only one that's done that.

Never really thought about doing the railing before the decking - great idea.

We're using green pressure treated decking.

Thanks for the input.

Kevin

MinConst 05-08-2005 06:19 PM

Kevin,
What did you use for the drawing?

rjordan392 05-08-2005 08:43 PM

Kevin,
Pressure treated wood for decking is losing favor for those who had them installed. In just 3 to 5 years, you will see cracks in the wood and warping. Take a look at the new composite wood made from wood chips and plastic I think. I have an untreated sample that I kept outside for over three years and the only differance between it and my indoor sample is that it turned a nice confederate grey color. Colors are available in the decking materials and I believe that the colors hold up to the weather. Theres even plastic railing available for a complete maintenance free deck except for spring cleaning. Then you would use pressure treated wood for the beams, joists, main supports and the 4 x 4 uprights. There is a plastic cover thats placed over the 4 x 4 and with hardware, you connect your railing to it. The only thing is: your design is not available .

DecksEtc 05-08-2005 11:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kevin K
Sweet. Glad I'm not the only one that's done that.

Never really thought about doing the railing before the decking - great idea.

We're using green pressure treated decking.

Thanks for the input.

Kevin

You don't need to complete the railings, just install the posts, then decking. It's easier to do the railings from the deck surface too.

I'm not a big fan of the composite myself (no offence). My #1 preference is cedar - to each his own...

Kevin K 05-11-2005 04:20 PM

MinConst, I used AutoCAD 98LT for the drawing, but recently acquired AutoCAD 2005. Seems just as easy to use.

rjordan392, I've built a decent number of decks with pressure treated lumber, and they've held up ok. I'm not a big fan of the composite materials either. Too bouncy, even on 12" centers. (trex)

Terry, that's what I meant, it just didn't appear on the screen the way I typed it. ;)

bujaly 05-21-2007 12:16 PM

Hey Kevin.. Totally random question. How did you create that photo that you posted?


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