Cutting into foundation for door - DIY Chatroom

simbey1982 · 11-04-2009, 11:41 PM

Hello all,

First post here. Have a question about a project im in the planning stage of. I have an 8ft foundation wall and equal height crawl area. The problem is i cant easily get to the crawl space without an exterior door. I dont have much experience in the whole engineering will my house fall down area but have gotten some tips and made a plan. This is an 8" thick poured concrete foundation. Just need to know if my plan is solid or needs adjustment. The attached photo explains the plan

Basically

1. cut out the opening
2. Use angle iron to reinforce the 14" concrete header
3. Use 2x8 pressure treated as extra support stud/ease of install for door and frame.

Thanks in advance....of course i understand this is all a discussion and would not consider anything professional engineering advice

fltdek · 11-04-2009, 11:58 PM

How much is sitting on that wall, single story, or two story?

2 x 8's to support the angle iron?

simbey1982 · 11-05-2009, 03:34 AM

It is a single story house. 1940 sqft.

The 2x8's would be mostly for installing the door than support perse but i would put them in after the angle iron which would add some "support"

zircon · 11-05-2009, 10:16 PM

I would extend the angle iron about 8" on either side of the door by cutting a half inch slot in the concrete to receive the angle iron base and support the weight on the wall instead of the wood framing. Before cutting the wall I would set up two screw jacks and a temporary header to support the weight of the joists that are bearing on the wall above the proposed doorway.

GBR in WA · 11-05-2009, 10:35 PM

I would consult an engineer as you have 415# just in concrete to support, not mentioning the span or loads of the bearing floor joist, but you need at least 2 trimmers on each side if a 30' span house. No telling if any of the roof load bears there or gable. Trying to get this off the forums is a start, now you know what information the S.E. will need. He would know the safe load rating of the steel as well.
Be safe, Gary

Anti-wingnut · 11-05-2009, 10:42 PM

Ditto the engineer. I don't think he will require the lintels, or will the jack studs be needed for structural reasons. I have done many similar saw cuts in tilt-up panels, and we were typically required to epoxy in a "C" header with 5/8" all thread 12" OC, one side only. But let the engineer design it, what you are trying to do is no big deal.

**Scuba_Dave** · 11-05-2009, 11:14 PM

Do the floor joists run parallel or perpindicular to the wall where you want the door ?

Single rim joist or double?

kawendtco · 11-05-2009, 11:47 PM

if you are cutting the wall out for a door, cut the entire wall to the top and to the bottom for a total of 16 feet of cut. the other way will be 17 feet some odd inches. concrete cutting is charged by the inch. support whatever is resting on this section of wall and when you have the concrete cut and out of the way, build a frame and header back in and you wont need to use angle iron or anything else.

lumber can be bolted to the concrete and header to this lumber fastened with nails, and joists, sill, etc. fastened above. i cut a 7 ft. opening today in 1 hour and 15 minutes. it was an exterior opening. it is a very messy job but very doable. i use a gas saw outside and a hydraulic saw when inside because of the fumes. wall will weigh upwards of 1500 lbs or so, so chisel this into managable pieces first. this can kill you....

simbey1982 · 11-06-2009, 10:18 PM

I cant cut the concrete all the way to the top as there are some joists hanging down inside (for the house) and outside (for the deck). That takes up appx 10.5 inches of the top part so the concrete will have to stay and going any farther down will start running into drainage issues there. Im running out of room which is why im trying to be more creative like with the angle iron.

My understanding when a door/window opening is poured into a foundation the rebar in the concrete "header" so to speak is installed horizontally for strength. I have seen angle iron used many times to reinforce headers or fix sagging beams etc. Seems like the same idea....

BTW I am very aware of the dangers with the saws and the weight of the concrete...i have plans for both

Just need some reassurance and advice

Anti-wingnut · 11-06-2009, 11:45 PM

It'll be OK. Hire an engineer

GBR in WA · 11-07-2009, 01:47 AM

Only cut where the Structural Engineer draws out for you, he is the taking the responsibility for the structure, not you. If you were to do it without him, there could be problems. Like losing the shear flow in that wall without attaching the rim joist to the whole concrete wall with rated, approved fasteners. Your Homeowners insurance company denying a claim because no professional was consulted, only a forum. A future problem occurring in the structure after you sell which could be traced back to the questions and answers on this paper trail forum..... The S.E. would be liable for all this and even the safety of the design for the end result, not you.

"I have seen angle iron used many times to reinforce headers or fix sagging beams etc. Seems like the same idea...." ---- probably rated by a licensed structural engineer, this is what they do. If you hired a contractor, he would/should consult an engineer, and without any reassurance or advice from you. Now you say there is a deck hanging off the house above, it just gets better.........

Please be safe, Gary

simbey1982 · 11-09-2009, 05:55 PM

So i live in Longview, WA...any suggestions for an engineer? Im assuming he just needs the engineering specs for my house several pictures and the proposed work???

Cory