These are called bridging. They transfer a load by compression from the top of one joist to the bottom of one on either side. They reduce flexing, (some bouncing of the floor), of one joist at a time so they should go back in.
If you pulled them out completely, you may want to buy some metal replacements http://www.strongtie.com/products/connectors/nca-tb-ltb.asp#tables2 as the existing wood cross-bridging (9% effective for deflection) are almost impossible to re-nail at the top of joist, high enough. OR, just add a full size blocking (15% effective) between the removed ones, or add 1x4 strapping to the bottoms (25% effective/deflection)of all after replacing; http://www.ewpa.com/Archive/2004/jun/Paper_278.pdf
Those are not cross beams, they are X bracing as previously described. There is no effective way to glue wooden X bracing in place. If you need to get the bracing out of the way to allow installation of drywall, you can install steel X bracing as previously discussed by GBR.
"I'm putting drywall up in between the joists so can the cross beams be lowered to accommodate the 5/8" drywall?"---------- I don't understand. Why would you install drywall above the cross-bridging? Why against the flooring? I must be missing a thought here.....
It's for soundproofing purposes. Drywall and Greenglue against the subflooring. So can they go back up just a little lower 5/8" because of the drywall?
Ahh... Appears you need to shorten a few that flush at the joist bottom. Leave a space between opposing ones so they don't rub/squeak. I usually clip the "air-nails" or "shiners" that miss the joist from above, same reason.
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