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Old 07-22-2011, 07:57 PM   #31
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Creating a very secure room


Insure the hardware. Cloud store backup of the data with encryption. Use software like I do to shut down anything stolen. It maps the location of stolen laptops and I suppose desktops. I can disable functionality with a warning message or scrub my stolen drives remotely.

Front Door Software. Colorado somewhere.

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Old 07-22-2011, 09:39 PM   #32
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Make a dummy room so they will work their butts off to get into while your real room is hidden behind something like this that I built several years ago for a guy to hide his guns. There is a large full room behind the computer desk cabinet and the door is under the knee space under the monitor. I made a sliding door which is locked inside the cabinet on the right.
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Old 07-22-2011, 09:42 PM   #33
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Forgot to post the picture of the computer desk.
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Old 07-22-2011, 09:43 PM   #34
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I give up, I keep hitting the wrong button. Maybe I can do it this blame time.
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Old 07-22-2011, 10:34 PM   #35
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I remember a printing firm that had their computer room burglarized twice. Finally the owner had sheets of expanded metal screwed to the metal studs. This was covered over by 3/4" plywood that in turn was covered by 5/8" drywall.
Previously the place was alarmed and had steel, shutters on all outside openings.
The shutters were ripped off by using a chain and a tow truck.

The expanded metal can be circumvented, but the idea is to slow 'em down and allow the police time to arrive.

Note: masonry blocks can easily be knocked down with a sledge hammer. The must be filled with concrete and rebar.
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Old 07-22-2011, 11:44 PM   #36
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Creating a very secure room


Hmm never even thought of sheet metal, that would be fairly easy to work with, probably not that expensive, and would add an extra layer of safety on the cheap. I could sandwich it between the two walls which I'll do no matter what for sound proofing reasons. No idea where I'd buy that here though, I don't think it's something a big box store would carry.

Hiding the entrance is probably the biggest key though. I've been thinking of different ideas for that. The best bet is probably just distracting away from the possibility of there being a door there in first place. Receptacles, pictures, furniture etc should do the trick. I'll probably go with the sliding door idea and solonoid locks though maybe a standard opening door would be easier to conceal. I want it to open outwards but I'm sure I can figure a way to hide the hinges. I'll have to get in Autocad and start playing with different designs.

I like that computer cabinet idea too. Could do something like that as well.
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Old 07-22-2011, 11:57 PM   #37
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Quote:
No idea where I'd buy that here...
Any heating and air conditioning contractor/shop should have what you need.
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Old 07-23-2011, 03:30 PM   #38
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Creating a very secure room


Dont forget to add your padding and strapjacket , and get a dog if you that worried about intruders sorry if i sound mean but i never heard of anyone doing this
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Old 07-23-2011, 04:48 PM   #39
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I gotta say, RedSquirrel, I do like the general idea behind what you're doing. A "panic room". The house I grew up in had a closed-off room under the stairs to the second floor. Used to be a pantry. Where the door used to be, there has been a refrigerator for 15 years now. The only entrance now is up thru an access panel between 2 joists in the basement. I always thought it'd make for a good hiding spot. The layout of the house makes it hard to visualize a space there.

There have been several break ins around my neighborhood lately as well. Fortunately my garage looks like a falling down shack so they ignore it. Ha. Let me know of any progress...I may want to build my own someday. I do think it's a cool idea regardless of what it's used for...
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Old 07-23-2011, 05:33 PM   #40
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Creating a very secure room


RedSquirrel -

Very secure rooms are common in many places, especially with the possibility of tornados. They are in basement and on the first floor and are also used as closets, storage rooms and bathrooms. Because of the common use (on newer homws) they are not tip off for computers usage or antique gun storage areas. Often they are common standard in some new homes.

The common construction is the long established FEMA "safe cell" for optional protection during tornados when the house can easily be gone. The construction is required to meet the requirement of zero pentration by projectiles, which is very similar to the easier task of preventing damage to allow theft. The strength is sufficent to have life protection in an F5 tornado that takes the house. Basicially the long established acceptable construction (based on a 12' 2x4 fire from an air cannon at 145 mph with NO pentration of anything. The far most common structures are 8" reinforced concrete or 8" reinforce concrete block with a thick concrete foundaton and an 8" reinforced concrete roof. After about 10 years of trying a wood system has finally been appoved that is 2x6 @ 12 o.c. studs covered by 2 layers of 3/4" plywood sandwiching a steel plate. The door in very heavy gage and the frames are heavy and filled with concrete. The roof is also a very colsely spaced wood joist with the sandwiched plywood/steel arrangement or 8" reinforced concrete.

Building something for your back-up information can be much smaller and easier to build and locate.

Just a thought.

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Old 07-23-2011, 06:19 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fulton 22175 View Post
Dont forget to add your padding and strapjacket , and get a dog if you that worried about intruders sorry if i sound mean but i never heard of anyone doing this
Red squirrel lives near the American border and is likely concerned about marauding Yankee's.
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Old 07-23-2011, 07:51 PM   #42
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Actually I'm like 1000km away or so, the problem here is druggies that will do anything for a dollar. Attached is what I'm thinking of doing. The reason for all that drywall is more for sound proofing, and that may change, but based on some research drywall is actually a pretty good sound dampener because of it's mass, and it's very cheap.

For the door I'm not yet sure, but what I'm thinking more and more is to keep it simple. I'll see if I can find a place that will sell me a commercial grade steel door, something you'd see in a school or hospital. The frame and all is in metal, and they have decent sized deadbolts. That would go on the wall that has standard joist spacing but I'd build the frame "holder" with 4x4's drilled into the concrete and nailed above. Then there would be a wood panel door of some sort to cover the door. I'm even debating on if I even want to put a door. I could have a hatch on the other side which leads to the crawlspace. Would be easier to hide too.

This is where the room will be.

I may skip the sheet metal though, not really sure what true value it really adds. If they want to break through all that wood, chances are it's not the sheet metal that will stop them. Or I could electrify it.

The more and more I think this over, the key is to hide it and distract them away from that area. That, and I'm pretty dead set on getting an alarm system, I'll be calling local dealers and see what they recommend or I may look into the DIY route, but think nothing beats having a 24/7 monitored solution.
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Old 07-24-2011, 09:36 AM   #43
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LOL good one WILDIE LOL
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Old 07-24-2011, 10:57 AM   #44
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From what I am reading it sounds like if you make this room look like a vault then don't you think they may wait for you to get home to open the door? I like the thought of making it hidden. Why can't you do 2 rooms and have this one hidden? Maybe a false wall in a closet in the room?
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Old 07-24-2011, 01:11 PM   #45
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Creating a very secure room


Would not be too worried about that, if I got home and saw a big van in my driveway and saw that my house was broken into I'd call the cops. I'm more worried about what they can do during the 8 hours that I'm gone at work or the 8 hours while I'm sleeping. That's 16 hours that I'm essentially not home and with the 8 hours that I am home there's still chances that I'm gone somewhere else. So really, I'm hardly ever there. But yeah I'm leaning towards making it hidden. I'll still overbuild it, but don't need to go as overboard. I'll play in auto cad and come up with some designs and see what makes the most sense.

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