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Old 06-10-2008, 08:40 AM   #1
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Connecting a deck ledger to blocking?


The photo shows the remnants of an old balcony. The 2x8s are extensions of the house joists so there is only blocking on the flat surface where I am want to connect the deck ledger. I assume this surface is not as strong as a continuous house band. I am guessing I will need to add more blocking behind and use horizontal hold downs at intervals. Any recommendations from those more experienced?
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Old 06-10-2008, 04:33 PM   #2
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Connecting a deck ledger to blocking?


You have 2x8's for floor joists which run through into the house to the bearing wall inside. I'm assuming they are rotted on the tops .or why would you be changing them.
I would cut the joists flush with the outside plate or even better 1-1/2" back from the plate install another rim joist. then install new Z flashing behind the siding and felt paper. then install new ledger.
Or cut the joist flush with the blocking and cut down the siding below to accommodate a wider ledger board that could be Lag screwed into the top plate that the joists are resting on. 2x10 or 2x12. And try to catch a few screws into the interior floor joists. make sure you drill the appropriate undersized hole for the lag.
Make sure you flash the siding below. I will be interested to here other ideas on this situation. BOB
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Old 06-10-2008, 09:38 PM   #3
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Connecting a deck ledger to blocking?


Bob's right. Lose those old joists. Cut them off flush and install a ledger to the house. That will allow you to build the deck more conventionally.

I hate seeing cantilevered decks that incorporate the house's joists. They look great for a few years, but when they get old and rotten they're a huge hazard. You're better off with posts at the corners for sure!
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Old 06-10-2008, 11:48 PM   #4
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Connecting a deck ledger to blocking?


I cut the joists off today and the doug fir was in surprisingly good condition. This is considering it has been there for 27 years and it is untreated. As has been mentioned before, if wood is allowed to dry out it holds up well to weathering. Codes must have been different back then to allow 2x8s to cantilever 5'. Cutting them off flush I think will be a lot of tedious wittling. Not even a sawsall will get me a good cutting angle.
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Old 06-11-2008, 03:34 PM   #5
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Connecting a deck ledger to blocking?


I'll explain how I would tackle this. You must be confident on using a skill saw . make a platform that brings you up to a good comfortable working height. Then get a sawzall with a 12" blade I prefer a lenox metal cutting blade they are able to flex more with out breaking to often. cut the old joists what are left, as flush to the blocking as you can with out going beyond them. the measure the the outside of the siding to the face of the blocking. rip two peices of scrap and tack them about 3" away from either side of the blocking so your skill saw table can slid up and down on them.
bend the flashing up as high out of the way as you can. next set the skill saw blade down from the tale the thickness of the scrapes you just ripped. I would recommend a carbide blade for this and some safety glasses.
start the saw and install the rear table on the rear block as you lift the blade guard move the saw up and down over the scraps until you are able to rest the front of the table on the other scrap piece. What you are actually going to do is use the side of the blade to plain down the joist so it flush with the blocking. if you don't feel confident about doing this then try a belt sander with at least a 60grit belt. you must hold both tools with two hands
you could also adjust the blade setting a little each time until you reach your depth. god luck Bob.
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Old 06-11-2008, 04:14 PM   #6
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Connecting a deck ledger to blocking?


You can rent flush cut saws that will make short ,clean work of those beams.
Ron
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Old 06-11-2008, 04:22 PM   #7
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Connecting a deck ledger to blocking?


This is for Ron
I was thinking of the same thing. But the ones I'm use to I think would interfere with the siding , Post a picture of the one your thinking of, I would be interested in buying one. Thanks Bob.
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Old 06-11-2008, 05:20 PM   #8
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Connecting a deck ledger to blocking?


Quote:
Originally Posted by buletbob View Post
I'll explain how I would tackle this. You must be confident on using a skill saw . make a platform that brings you up to a good comfortable working height. Then get a sawzall with a 12" blade I prefer a lenox metal cutting blade they are able to flex more with out breaking to often. cut the old joists what are left, as flush to the blocking as you can with out going beyond them. the measure the the outside of the siding to the face of the blocking. rip two peices of scrap and tack them about 3" away from either side of the blocking so your skill saw table can slid up and down on them.
bend the flashing up as high out of the way as you can. next set the skill saw blade down from the tale the thickness of the scrapes you just ripped. I would recommend a carbide blade for this and some safety glasses.
start the saw and install the rear table on the rear block as you lift the blade guard move the saw up and down over the scraps until you are able to rest the front of the table on the other scrap piece. What you are actually going to do is use the side of the blade to plain down the joist so it flush with the blocking. if you don't feel confident about doing this then try a belt sander with at least a 60grit belt. you must hold both tools with two hands
you could also adjust the blade setting a little each time until you reach your depth. god luck Bob.

That's a great idea. I was going to do something similar with my 5 1/2" skil saw. I didn't think of the spacers which will give the saw foot something measured and stable to sit on. I'll still use the belt sander to finish it smooth. Thanks.
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