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Concrete Newbie looking for DIY video

5K views 41 replies 10 participants last post by  rosco 
#1 · (Edited)
ALL -
I'm part-way into prepping to lay concrete for a backyard porch. it will be 4" thick. part is in the middle of existing concrete porch and the other part will be an extension. i've attached a photo (in the middle, is the 9'x9', portion of old porch to be replaced. And, to the left, towards the porch uprights, will be the new extension of ~4-6'x25').

Is there a video for beginners i can watch so i get the jist of what i'll be doing? youtube has many, but they seem to be partial jobs or teasers (to lure into paid advice) or other application that is different and so doesn't help.

in our area, we've relatively hard pullman clay loam soil and it packs hard. but i'll be digging out about 3-5" and will backfill much, especially in the area where the porch is being replaced (a drain line was replaced there six months ago). i've heard sand, but i'm seeing videos with people using a ground compactor. and that is $ to rent. can i just fill it in with soil and top-off with sand? there is a lot of loose rock where the sewer drain line was replaced. should this loose rock with lots of void be removed? backfill with soil and hose down with water?

it might be best if an experienced person let me know if my ideas are right. then, i'll be confident to begin. 1.) Stake out area to be dug. 2.) dig out about 4" of ground in this area. 3.) tie "leveled" string around stakes even with current porch portions? 4.) nail up the "forms," using 2"x4" boards? 6.) measure all areas to be filled with cement. backfill with soil and then water down to pack? 7.) Top off with sand? 8.) put a layer of metal mesh in. 9.) pour cement leveling with a scoop shovel as it enters and leveling by sliding a straight 2"x4" ontop of "forms." 10.) smooth with the smoothing tools we found from days long ago? will this plan provide a smooth, strong cement porch? It will just be the two of us and neither of us have experience in laying this type of cement. just animal barn pens and such with the help of many others
 

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#13 ·
don't worry about wire mesh as it isn't nec for 4" mud,,, there'd be no joy watching disaster occur when its preventable,,, whenwe replaced our d/w 2yrs ago, we had pro's do it,,, i had no labor pool from which to draw who's skill was verifiable,,, our contractor was a young fellow eager to learn more so it was a great experience for both,,, i still recommend/send him leads :thumbup: he's even better now AND more profitable, too, as his reputation helps him get his $$$ !

not surprised respective costs were a wash,,, take the day off - watch - & learn :yes: CONGRATS on being man enough to listen to good counsel w/o having a testosterone overload,,, btw, often many of us wind up w/spare nuts & bolts left over scratching our heads :laughing:
 
#24 ·
Things must still be pretty tight in Texas if you’re getting contractors bidding on a job like this for $700.00

This sounds like everything is in your favor and against the contractor. Not a fair agreement to all parties at all.

Just so that I'm clear on the scope of the job;
- Contractor must include the price of the concrete in the job, but you dictate where he must purchase it and what goes in it.

- You will be scheduling the pour, but you’re also saying that pouring with wind speeds exceeding 20mph will not be allowed? Who is going to be responsible for checking and verifying wind speeds? Who is going to pay for sending the truck that you ordered, back if it’s too windy? Who is going to pay the contractor’s time for additional days working or not getting the job complete if it’s too windy at the time that you ordered the concrete?

- You are dictating the bar size that goes in the form, but you force a two year guarantee on cracking and heaving, and on top of that you re-establish the new two year window on the guarantee.

Who is doing the prep work? Are you, or is the contractor prepping?

There is no way that any licensed contractor that I work with will not bust a gut with laughter after reading your 'contract'. All of that for $700.00? Good for you for finding someone to do that for you. I wouldn’t touch it.

I also wouldn't stake my life on anyone that isn't licensed and insured staying around for any "guarantee" work. I can't see any contractor that’s licensed and insured accepting your contract.

Just my thoughts,
Mick
 
#34 ·
Things must still be pretty tight in Texas if you’re getting contractors bidding on a job like this for $700.00

This sounds like everything is in your favor and against the contractor. Not a fair agreement to all parties at all.

This pretty much sums up my opinion as well. Seems like you need to find a contractor from a referel rather than craigslist or the phone book. As a HO who doesn't have the proper background in this scenario, I think "micro-managing" this small job to this degree can have ill results for yourself. Any contractor worth his salt will not allow the HO to restrict his own "best practices" as learned through his career. I'm afraid the guy you hire w/this contract will be one who doesn't know enough about the job, that will actually find comfort in the details you have provided him.

Good luck with this approach.

itsreallyconc. i think i'll ask to stick w/ rebar. if it were you putting it in i'd trust that you could leave it out. but i'm not seeing this level of expertise, yet.

There's absolutely nothing wrong w/using rebar in this small project, it's actually fairly cheap insurance.

hmm, now i'm getting confused ... for the size of slabs in this job, will rebar grid (w/ no tying of rebar ends, except bailing wire) and 1/4" tool joints work? the 7.5'x8' slab will have three dowel bars on each side.
The dowels are a wise choose as well. The 7' X 8' slab needs NO control joints. the longer 26' x 5' could be jointed into 4 or 5 squares, whichever works better asthetically. When tooling the joints in, 1/4 of the depth (1" in this case) of the concrete. When sawing the next day, I prefer more like 1/3 the depth.

These are all things that a concrete pro needs to know already though. Again, good luck.
 
#32 ·
what clowns, huh ?

no, we rarely use fiber - impo, its become a crutch for most & doesn't prevent random cracking,,, the original intent was to provide inexpensive reinforcement during the ' tension ' moments of concrete curing ( hydration ),,, ' slurry ', to me, is the residual mtl from diamond sawing - a mix of cement, aggregate, diamond blade, & wtr OR the stuff wash'd out of the transit mix trk's barrell & chutes.

we will use rebar at driveway throats ( momemt loading ) & on elevated slabs/bdge decks,,, for slabs on grade such as yours, its not nec NOR is wire mesh.

normally we'll SAW our jnts UNLESS we can safely ( I MAKE THAT CALL ! ) groove 1/3rs of slab thickness,,, we guarantee NO random cracking !

an expansion jnt's different from a contraction jnt & an isolation jnt & a construction jnt :huh:

time to go make some $$$$$$$$$$


time
 
#2 ·
Rosco,
What area of country are you in? Weather conditions (freeze/thaw) might help with folks suggesting how deep your base needs to be to prevent heaving.
Concrete is a lot of work and unless someone knows how to finish it (and when) it could end up pretty ugly. Also, it is heavy. How will you get the concrete to the job site? Right from the truck or wheelbarrows?
Bob
 
#3 ·
Bob - thanks for reply




Bob & All -
we are near Amarillo, TX.

I'm thinking trucked in then wheel barrow ~50' to site, by myself. i'd plan it out with the cement company. delivery is $ though. i've thought to go to "the boulevard" and grab a day-laborer to help me.
 
#4 ·
This may sound absurd to you, but there is more wisdom in this suggestion than I can even begin to tell you.

Go find someone who does concrete, and volunteer your free help on at least five or six jobs of theirs.

Work hard for them, and ask that they try to show you some things along the way. It will blow your mind just what a difficult scenario you are setting up for yourself as you have outlined it. Concrete work is almost impossible without someone to show you, first hand, how certain steps are accomplished.
 
#8 ·
I agree. You only get one shot on concrete to get it right. Mess up, and you have to start over...including jackhammering the old concrete up. ($$$$)

. . . I'll probably just have the cement company smooth it out after pouring.
I've never come across a cement company around here that also does finishing work. They simply send a truck and driver and expect you to have a crew in place to do the work.
 
#6 ·
I've done concrete work but wasn't the one in-charge of the jobs. and, of course, i've done all kinds of smaller jobs where bag cement is used and no base was involved. i know it is no fun. Pro's are $.

I can get as much of the work done myself and that is what i want help with. I'll probably just have the cement company smooth it out after pouring.

to start with, how much base? it is a back porch in the panhandle of texas on pullman clay loam soil (very compactible & expandible. it cracks like crazy). 2" gravel, packed. then 2" sand? then the 4" of cement? sounds like a 8" pit should dug. am i right?
 
#7 ·
if you do the prep & framing, it'd make more sense to hire the placing & finishing then you do the joint sawing.

' bag cement ' ( pre-mix'd concrete ) doesn't count in my book,,, doubtful anyone in their right mind would come in to finish w/o placing because proper finishing BEGINS w/placing & consolidating.

here's a thought - by trying to scrimp/save/penny-pinch $$$, you'll probably GUARANTEE you'll have to look at the horrible result for a long LONG time :censored: better you should work some overtime, save your $$$, & get it done right the 1st time,,, do-overs are VERY expensive ! :furious:

then again, it IS yours ! :laughing:
 
#9 ·
Okay guys! i've got three bids to do the entire job. Gosh Darnit i wanted to do this, but after all these remarks, i've decided to contract out the job. i asked each if i could dig and save some money, but they've all said $50 at most, is all i'd save. they'll come back and dig it out how they want.

THanks for stopping me on this seeming catastrophe!

The difference between contracting out the job and renting all the equipment and paying for cement and hiring a day laborer to help, well, it is about the same.

Thanks All. - rosco
ps. the photos of me trying to do this (me being swamped with cement as i try to re-learn spanish and explain things as the cement dries) and the resulting disaster of a cement job would have been funny. but funny for the viewer only! Thanks All
 
#12 ·
...... Gosh Darnit i wanted to do this, but after all these remarks, i've decided to contract out the job.......
A very wise decision.

May I suggest that some sidewalks might be the best beginner's projects. They are easy for one man to do, and if you go slowly and don't rush things, you can usually be pretty proud of the results. Plus, you can easily do them a small section at a time.
 
#10 ·
Don't forget that the saw cutting needs to be done VERY soon after the concrete sets up good. I prefer to have a saw on it the very next morning.
 
#11 ·
As a DIY'er it sounds like you are on the right track. You need to tamp (not just water), but you can use a 10x10 hand tamp. Get a fiberglass handle one if you can. It sounds like you are doing a lot of base work. My experience is that many contractors in my area don't bother with lots of base prep or wire mesh for residential jobs as long as you are pouring on undisturbed solid ground.

Your main problem will come with proper finishing technique. It would be very helpful for you to start with some smaller projects to get the hang of it. Also, a common problem with beginners is to not properly support the form and it gives way during the pour.

Browse the books at HD.

-----------------------

I just saw that you decided to hire it out -- good choice. Watch and learn and then do some small jobs on your own. Be on the lookout for them to take short cuts if you went with the low bid.
 
#14 · (Edited)
yeah, i won't be doing this job myself. if someone has time to read this and knows what "corners" someone might try to take, please read and comment on this. the method will involved putting a rebar frame in the pit and pouring the cement level to the forms. I've two things highlighted that i'm unsure of. here is what will be signed before the job begins:

Back Patio Contractor's Agreement


This job will be done for a total not to exceed $700 without the prior detailed and expressed “written” authorization by the homeowner, *********** to the contractor, amending this Agreement. This Agreement will be annotated to indicate this authorization.
The following must be met for the job to continue or for payment to be made.

  • The patio slabs to be laid, of at least 4” concrete depth throughout, will be poured and smoothed to a finish existing on current two slabs of concrete on back patio. No rough finish is acceptable.
  • There will be two separate slabs. There is one replacement slab between two existing slabs and a second that is a new extension of the patio. the slab between the two existing slabs is to be 7'6” by 8'. this slab will be anchored to the two existing slabs by six dowells or more. At least three on each side. The dimensions of the “patio extension” slab are to be 26' by 5'.
  • The cement will be of the strength 3,000lbs and poured at a 4” or 5” “Slup”. This will be verified throughout the pour by the homeowner. Pouring is not to begin until this verification is made.
  • A rebar frame of 1/2” rebar will be made of at least 18 pieces of 20' long.
  • The cement will be delivered by either Golden Spread or Thomas Ready Mix.
  • Dirt removed from the digging of the pit for the slabs is to be placed on top of one of two existing dirt piles in the yard, or in a new raised garden, if it is ready in time.
  • The contractor is to use all of his own tools and equipment.
  • Any damage caused to property of the homeowner will be paid for by the contractor.
  • The job will be considered complete when the above has been properly performed and the slab is known to be free of defects.
  • A guarantee is made that if cracks develop within the period of two years, the slab will either be repaired to be free of defects, including visual cracks or blemishes or other defects to the satisfaction of the Home Owner.




Payment will be made when the slabs are completely laid and the above conditions are known to exist.


Homeowner (*********): __________________________________ Date: _________________






Contractor (*****): __________________________________ Date: _________________
 
#15 · (Edited)
questions of agreement

three questions now about the agreement.
1.) what thickness should the rebar be? i guessed 1/2"

2.) how many years are concrete slabs usually guaranteed for? i guessed two so we could at least go through one cycle of summer/winter/summer and watch it.

3.) i've specified i want the new middle slab to be anchored to the old slabs. since the new slab will "T" up against the two old ones and the new replacement slab, should the long slab be anchored to all three? i didn't think this was necessary.

4.) in the photo, you can see support beam of the porch. they are old and will need to be replaced in the next ten or so years. maybe sooner. we don't want to spend the money now so i expect we'll be replacing them later. what should be done to make removing the cement anchoring these posts? and, could i treat these posts with a coat of Thompson's WaterSeal before the cement is laid to help keep moisture from getting in.

a photo is at beginning of this thread and we live in the texas panhandle. about the same weather as oklahoma city but a little colder since we are at 4,000'.

THX!
 
#16 ·
unsure why there's a ' rebar frame ' or even what it is :( but VERY sure he meant ' slump ' & not ' slup '

$700.00 is EXTREMELY reasonable - that CAN'T include cost of conc, does it ? ? ? its not as we'd like to work but did j'ever see 2 carpenters agree on anything ? i am curious how you'll test for the slump, tho - you have your own cone & rod ? ? ?

from what i read, all the favor's on YOUR side !
 
#18 ·
Raining here



yeah, i corrected "slup" to "slump". that is our contract from things i learned here. we don't want to repeat what happened in a 7' cedar fence construction job. b/c of the fence incident, nothing begins until this contract is signed by all. if you can think of any corner that might be cut, Please let me know. the "corner" cut on the cedar fence was totally not foreseen and insane, but he did it, saved money and we now have a cedar fence that will last ten years or so.

what do you mean, "cost of conc..." if concrete, it does. others bid higher. Hey, thanks, i'll ammend the agreement with this is to include the cost of concrete.

about the rebar, each construction site pouring concrete uses this method. all contractors are bidding the job be done this way.
 
#19 ·
Revised Agreement

please comment on this:
Back Patio Contractor's Agreement


This job will be done for a total not to exceed $700 without the prior detailed and expressed “written” authorization by the homeowner, *********** to the contractor, amending this Agreement. This price is to include cost of the cement. This Agreement will be annotated to indicate this authorization.



  • The following plan and specifications must be followed and met for the job to continue or for payment to be made.
  • The homeowner will arrange for the cement to be delivered. The cement company chosen will be made by the homeowner. Either the contractor will pay for the cement or the homeowner will deduct the amount owed for cement from the $700 and pay for the cement. Simply, the $700 is the cost of the job, including the cement, tools & equipment used, supplies such as rebar and forms and the labor to complete the job.

  • The patio slabs to be laid, of at least 4” concrete depth throughout, will be poured and smoothed to a finish existing on current two slabs of concrete on back patio. No rough finish is acceptable.
  • There will be two separate slabs. There is one replacement slab between two existing slabs and a second that is a new extension of the patio. the slab between the two existing slabs is to be 7'6” by 8'. this slab will be anchored to the two existing slabs by six dowells or more. At least three on each side. The dimensions of the “patio extension” slab are to be 26' by 5'.
  • The cement will be of the strength 3,000lbs and poured at a 4” or 5” “Slump”. If a more liquid pour is desired, a “mid-range” chemical may be added but not water. This will be verified throughout the pour by the homeowner. Pouring is not to begin until this verification is made.
  • A rebar frame of 3/8” rebar will be made of at least 18 pieces of 20' long.
  • The cement will be delivered by either Golden Spread or Thomas Ready Mix.
  • Dirt removed from the digging of the pit for the slabs is to be placed on top of one of two existing dirt piles in the yard, or in a new raised garden, if it is ready in time.
  • The contractor is to use all of his own tools and equipment.
  • No spraying water on cement is to be done.
  • No “Jitter Bugging” or smacking cement with a rack type tool to know the rocks off the top is to be done.
  • The cement will not be laid in windy conditions, 20 mph or more.
  • Any damage caused to property of the homeowner will be paid for by the contractor.
  • The job will be considered complete when the above has been properly performed and the slab is known to be free of defects.
  • A guarantee is made that if cracks develop within the period of two years, the slab will either be removed and replaced or repaired to be free of defects, including visual cracks or blemishes or other defects to the satisfaction of the Homeowner. If defects are repaired or concrete is replaced, this guarantee renews itself for another two years.




Payment will be made when the slabs are completely laid and the above conditions are known to exist.


Homeowner (*********): __________________________________ Date: _________________






Contractor (********): __________________________________ Date: _________________
 
#20 · (Edited)
please comment on this:
Back Patio Contractor's Agreement


This job will be done for a total not to exceed $700 without the prior detailed and expressed “written” authorization by the homeowner, *********** to the contractor, amending this Agreement. This price is to include cost of the cement. This Agreement will be annotated to indicate this authorization.



  • The following plan and specifications must be followed and met for the job to continue or for payment to be made.
  • The homeowner will arrange for the cement to be delivered. The cement company chosen will be made by the homeowner. Either the contractor will pay for the cement or the homeowner will deduct the amount owed for cement from the $700 and pay for the cement. Simply, the $700 is the cost of the job, including the cement, tools & equipment used, supplies such as rebar and forms and the labor to complete the job.
  • The patio slabs to be laid, of at least 4” concrete depth throughout, will be poured and smoothed to a finish existing on current two slabs of concrete on back patio. No rough finish is acceptable.
  • There will be two separate slabs. There is one replacement slab between two existing slabs and a second that is a new extension of the patio. the slab between the two existing slabs is to be 7'6” by 8'. this slab will be anchored to the two existing slabs by six dowells or more. At least three on each side. The dimensions of the “patio extension” slab are to be 26' by 5'.
  • The cement will be of the strength 3,000lbs and poured at a 4” or 5” “Slump”. If a more liquid pour is desired, a “mid-range” chemical may be added but not water. This will be verified throughout the pour by the homeowner. Pouring is not to begin until this verification is made.
  • A rebar frame of 3/8” rebar will be made of at least 18 pieces of 20' long.
  • The cementwill be delivered by either Golden Spread or Thomas Ready Mix.
  • Dirt removed from the digging of the pit for the slabs is to be placed on top of one of two existing dirt piles in the yard, or in a new raised garden, if it is ready in time.
  • The contractor is to use all of his own tools and equipment.
  • No spraying water on cement is to be done.
  • No “Jitter Bugging” or smacking cement with a rack type tool to know the rocks off the top is to be done.
  • The cement will not be laid in windy conditions, 20 mph or more.
  • Any damage caused to property of the homeowner will be paid for by the contractor.
  • The job will be considered complete when the above has been properly performed and the slab is known to be free of defects.
  • A guarantee is made that if cracks develop within the period of two years, the slab will either be removed and replaced or repaired to be free of defects, including visual cracks or blemishes or other defects to the satisfaction of the Homeowner. If defects are repaired or concrete is replaced, this guarantee renews itself for another two years.


Payment will be made when the slabs are completely laid and the above conditions are known to exist.


Homeowner (*********): __________________________________ Date: _________________






Contractor (********): __________________________________ Date: _________________
Now, which are you getting...... concrete or cement ?

And the rebar should be specified by bar size and grid dimensions. As stated, the rebar could all be dumped in one spot.

No jitterbugging? You want them to try to trowel finish with rocks present on top? Kind of sounds like it.

As asked before... how are you going to test the slump and verify the additives?
 
#22 · (Edited)
revision for rebar

here is the revision for the rebar bullet:


  • A rebar frame of will be made of rebar 3/8” thick. The rebar will be placed no more than two feet apart in each direction to form a “grid.” it will be held between the bottom of the pit and surface of the future concrete slabs.
oooops, a friend just suggested "tool joints" in the 26' slab. i specified they shoud be apart 5-10'.
also, i put in a part about the guarantee covering "heaving" of the slabs.

THX!
 
#23 ·
here is agreement i hope will cover all the bases or "corners."
Back Patio Contractor's Agreement


This job will be done for a total not to exceed $700 without the prior detailed and expressed “written” authorization by the homeowner, *********** to the contractor, amending this Agreement. This price is to include cost of the concrete. This Agreement will be annotated to indicate this authorization.



  • The following plan and specifications must be followed and met for the job to continue or for payment to be made.
  • The homeowner will arrange for the concrete to be delivered. The concrete company chosen will be made by the homeowner. Either the contractor will pay for the concrete or the homeowner will deduct the amount owed for concrete from the $700 and pay for the concrete. Simply, the $700 is the cost of the job, including the concrete, tools & equipment used, supplies such as rebar and forms and the labor to complete the job.

  • The patio slabs to be laid, of at least 4” concrete depth throughout, will be poured and smoothed to a finish existing on current two slabs of concrete on back patio. No rough finish is acceptable.
  • There will be two separate slabs. There will be one replacement slab between two existing slabs and a second that is a new extension of the patio. the slab between the two existing slabs is to be 7'6” by 8'. this slab will be anchored to the two existing slabs by six dowells or more. At least three on each side. The dimensions of the “patio extension” slab are to be 26' by 5'.
  • The concrete will be of the strength 3,000lbs and poured at a 4” or 5” “Slump”. If a more liquid pour is desired, a “mid-range” chemical may be added but not water. This will be verified throughout the pour by the homeowner. Pouring is not to begin until this verification is made.
  • A rebar frame of will be made of rebar 3/8” thick. The rebar will be placed no more than two feet apart in each direction to form a “grid.” it will be held between the bottom of the pit and surface of the future concrete slabs.
  • The concrete will be delivered by either Golden Spread or Thomas Ready Mix.
  • Dirt removed from the digging of the pit for the slabs is to be placed on top of one of two existing dirt piles in the yard, or in a new raised garden, if it is ready in time.
  • The contractor is to use all of his own tools and equipment.
  • No “Jitter Bugging” or smacking the concrete with a rake-type tool to knock the rocks down from the surface is to be done. The surface is to be smoothed with trowels.
  • Tool joints or expansion joints in the 26' foot slab should be made of at least 1/8” or more and spaced between five and ten feet apart.
  • No spraying water on concrete is to be done.
  • The concrete will not be laid in windy conditions, 20 mph or more.
  • Any damage caused to property of the homeowner will be paid for by the contractor.
  • The job will be considered complete when the above has been properly performed and the slab is known to be free of defects.
  • A guarantee is made that if cracks develop or the slabs begin to “heave” (move up or down or tilt) within the period of two years, the slab will either be removed and replaced or repaired to be free of defects, including visual cracks, “heaving” or other defects to the satisfaction of the Homeowner. If defects are repaired or concrete is replaced, this guarantee renews itself for another two years.


Payment will be made when the slabs are completely laid and the above conditions are known to exist.


Homeowner (*********): __________________________________ Date: _________________






Contractor (********): __________________________________ Date: _________________
 
#25 · (Edited)
license and insurance

this guy came recommended from one of the cement companies. actually, all the bidder's have. the contractor with the current lowest bid isn't known to the cement company who will lay the cement. actually, a good friend of the cement company owner was outbid by this guy so i don't think they'll help him cut a corner when it comes to saving $ on the concrete w/o me knowing. also, the cement company that will pour the cement recommends against high winds and won't pour in high wind, in my case. so i won't need to rent a weather station. i like your thought that i should rework the bid so the contractor takes out the price of concrete. that way he will be off his mind. all of them said i can handle the delivery of the concrete and don't care which company i use.

only one contactor said i'd save $ by doing part or all of the prep work since they'd do it again as they want it. and it wouldn't save me hardly anything since most of it is dug and 2x4's are cheap.

The state i live in has the healthiest economy. hopefully it succeeds from the others soon.

thanks water guy for not letting me forget this:
  • The contractor's license and insurance will be presented before work begins


if he doesn't like something in the agreement, then he should say so before and not in court. get my drift. i am pretty sure everyone on this forum who has been screwed by a contractor would cheer.

and, i think if this isn't signed all the power is in contractors hands. if the homeowner thinks he got screwed, he doesn't pay. but then the contractor puts a lien on his house.

again, this will all be detailed and agreed to so we have equal rights to recourse. without the agreement, the contractor is the only one with power. he can put a lien on the house and we can complain to the BBB (which is a complete joke - pay for good rating). and w/o anything in writing, yup, same story as the fence. contractor gets paid and we're left with a sh*tty job. Thieves and crooks are protected in this situation. one thieving contractor low-balls everyone else, gets his money back by screwing the person and makes all contractors look bad. your reply made me separate the contractor from the concrete slurry mixing
 
#26 · (Edited)
Tie-n Rebar

i've only imagined that the rebar will be laid in a grid and tied with bailing wire.
what does it mean that the rebar should be "tied-in." is the rebar bent on the ends?

all i know is it should be laid in square grid fashion about 2' apart in both directions and shouldn't stick out of the slab to be poured.

another question is: should there not be some spacing between the two new slabs and the two old slabs? the dowel bars should hold it in place but it seems if they were too close together and any movement occurred there would be cracking.

THX!
 
#28 · (Edited)
Watering down concrete mix!!!!!

The contractor had no problem with the agreement until he found out he couldn't post mix the concrete slurry with water in the wheel barrels. he pulled out. So i'm rebidding the job with me taking care of the cement cost and communication separately. Everyone is rebidding, except him.

OH, i found the FENCE contractor's house tonight. He put cheap, untreated white pine rails on an "all cedar fence" and i had not exactly specified that in the agreement. I put 1/2 a box of sugar cubes in his gas tank tonight! Yeah! :whistling2:
 
#29 ·
wouldn't accept this job, either,,, $$$ too low & i don't put steel ( wire OR bar ) in 4" slabs ( unless elevated, of course ! )

just finish'd another contractor's ( ? ) project - 450sf 4" broom finish,,, he graded site ( lawn ), formed, & open'd 180b of apron store conc mix when remodeling contractor h/o boot'd him off the job,,, the plan was mixing w/garden hose on ground :eek: obviously worth a laugh to anyone :laughing: & he includ'd weld'd wire mesh :yes: ALL for $ 2,300 !

my 3 guys took 5hrs ( form, place, finish, & saw jnts ) = $ 1,000 & NO ' blessing ' of the mud, either ! h/o pd $ 550 for 5.5cy 3,500# 5" slump conc - everyone's happy !
 
#30 ·
itsreallyconc - OH my! 180 bags of cement mix? holy catfish! and he planned on mixing it by hand/foot? the remodeling contractor got lucky catching him when he did. almost too late!!!

all of them want to do the rebar grid. do you put "fiber" in? you don't just pour straight concrete slurry, do you?

the other contractors are bidding somewhere around just over $5cy for 3,000# 5" slump. maybe $5.75cy. can't remember. it is a smaller job so they'll bid higher per cubic yard, of course.
i've changed the contract a lot since i last posted it. one thing was to lightly broom the surface so it isn't slippery. and i'm handling the concrete delivery and the payment. after yesterday's conversation with the contractor coming right out and saying he planned on watering down the concrete slurry delivered to him, i don't want them left unattended with any slurry to go in the pit. i think the contractor that bailed planned on "topping off" the half-full wheel barrels with water as he smoked a cigar.

what are you saying about saw joints? i thought you were being facetious before. do you mean expansion joints that you can make 1/4" deep with a trowel?
 
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