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peakcelln 04-06-2013 12:08 PM

Composite Deck Fascia fastened from the inside?
I'm finishing up a steel frame deck with some nice two tone Fiberon Castle Gray fascia on the outside rim. Since the rim joist and rim ledgers are 14 and 16g steel, I originally bought some very expensive($18 box)self tapping gray colored screws made for this application, to be fastened from the outside.

Lately, I've been trying to figure out how to possibly attach them from the inside; maybe using a thicker screw(#10-14?) and at 1/2-5/8(I think the fascia's 3/4" thick, but I don't have it in front of me now), so it has a much cleaner look. Has anyone done this? Since my track and joist size is 6" and the fascia is 11.75", is that going to be enough surface to attach?

Thanx in advance

jagans 04-06-2013 12:28 PM

Got any pictures or drawings? Off hand I would say to back screw a ledger to the bottom then screw up into the framing, and install a cove trim on top, but hard to say with nothing to look at. :huh:

peakcelln 04-06-2013 12:57 PM

Thats a good Idea. I do have some 1x2" L metal I could screw into the fascia where it will hit the bottom of the rim joist. Because of the design, I do have a bout a 2" reveal at the bottom and about 3" above the rim joist in decking and decking support.

What size screw would you use?

I'll try and take some pics this afternoon.

woodworkbykirk 04-06-2013 01:23 PM

i can see problems arising if you try to fasten from the inside with a larger screw.. the self tapping screw may ream out the composite too much to provide any holding power plus with a larger screw its more likely to split the composite.. yes composite can split. can you get cortex screws that are rated to self tap into steel framing and the matching plugs for the color of composite your using?

peakcelln 04-06-2013 02:28 PM

I'll check and see what I have at home, but I think thats what I bought. They were alot longer than needed, though.

I could swear I read someplace where someone had done this successfully from the inside. I could use a drill(Or tapper) to just get through the steel, then use a better biting screw on the inside, with the L metal on the underside as previously suggested.

At $60-65 a 12' board, I really need to get it right the first time...

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