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diverdaveman 06-21-2007 11:19 PM

Complete drywall removal - old house
 
I purchased a home built in 1948. I want to gut the house and remove all the old plaster/drywall. I've done some drywall before. The one thing that really slows me down is the proper techniqe to apply and sand the joint compound. What brand of joint compound is better for a rookie to use. Keep in mind that I shop at lowes. Also, it the premix is the way to go, should I mix it with a little water?

Any help would be great...

Thanks,
Dave

AtlanticWBConst. 06-22-2007 06:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by diverdaveman (Post 50013)
I purchased a home built in 1948. I want to gut the house and remove all the old plaster/drywall. I've done some drywall before. The one thing that really slows me down is the proper techniqe to apply and sand the joint compound. What brand of joint compound is better for a rookie to use.

Any brand of ready mix will work just fine for any kind of skill level.
There is one brand that comes out of the bucket smooth and easy to work (no water needed). I believe it is PROFORM light weight compound. We get it from a drywall supplier. I do not know if it's carried in the BIG HOME stores or not.

Quote:

Originally Posted by diverdaveman (Post 50013)
Keep in mind that I shop at lowes. Also, it the premix is the way to go, should I mix it with a little water?.....

Generally, all other redimix compounds at BIG HOME type stores: You should add some water and combine to make the compound smooth and easier to work with. If you close up the compound and it sits for 24 hours, then add a "little" more water and re-mix, as it sets up and absorbs water over time.

KUIPORNG 06-22-2007 09:23 AM

It is a tough job... your worries is very true... been there in the basement... I found that although first timer can also do a good job on mudding... however... for a large scale job... this becomes very difficult... as need to keep the same level of patient and consistancy is very hard... I did my basement... and it is quite good for a basement... but if everything move up one level ... it becomes quite a so so job for the first floor... Especially the ceiling... One key is may be inperfections only show after painting finished. Therefore my advice to you is : be patient with the mudding and don't try rush or any short cut and try one unimportant room for testing from start to finish before starting any other area this will give you very good experience.

AtlanticWBConst. 06-22-2007 09:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KUI****G (Post 50035)
It is a tough job... Especially the ceiling... One key is may be inperfections only show after painting finished...

TIP: After priming, ALOT of imperfections will show up.
Before applying your finish paint, go over all areas, using a halogen type lamp, placed so the beam hits surfaces at an angle*. Use this time to do your "touch up" of any light - revealed blemishes. It may take a few more coats on some of the blemishes. Allow the touch ups to dry, go back and sand. Re-prime those areas and then go ahead and complete your painting.

*(The way to use the halogen light so the beam is at an angle is similar to the way sunlight might hit the moon's surface and reveal the shadows and outlines of the moon's crated and textured surface. Hopefully your walls & ceilings won't look quite like that)

KUIPORNG 06-22-2007 10:08 AM

This is very good advice Atlantic... and very true too... I infact did some of those... but don't bother for some others... afterall ... it is just a basement... and believe me... when you are at the priming stage... you probably hate sanding so much that you don't want to go backward... but if it is a first floor ... I agree...you got to fix it...

diverdaveman 06-22-2007 04:17 PM

Thanks guys for the much-needed advice. The "light-thing" will come in handy.

One more thing - I've read about putting dish-soap in the joint-compound to reduce bubbles. Does that work and should I do that?

Thanks again,
Dave


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