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Old 10-27-2008, 05:41 PM   #16
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Combustible ----> Non-Combustible Wall


it's POSSIBLE a half-brick wall could be put behind that cute lil' thing! but full brick may be necessary, or worse..... even 2 or 3 inches from the brick, it'll still be in the way, and if it gets too hot on the outside.... no-where else you can hit the chimney? the other side is probably not an option as you'd have to turn it around and that design probably isn't on both sides, or is it? can you put it perp to the wall? too much in the way there? our woodstove is only 6 inches from the wall, but it's floor to ceiling brick for the whole wall. chimney hidden between 2 closets in the master bedroom.

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Old 10-27-2008, 06:17 PM   #17
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3 feet in ALL directions? What are you going to do with the floor?? You can rebuild the wall out of metal studs (you can get load bearing at a drywall supply) and hang your durock..... There's probably a better way though. I'm sure there will be more responses.
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Old 10-27-2008, 06:38 PM   #18
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if that thing radiates heat, that back wall will need to be able to take the punch. and there is no way i can see that you'll fit an 18" apron in front of the loading door, even if you had it 2 or 3 inches from the chimney. is that chimney drywalled over? painted brick? can't tell from the size pics. it'll need to be able to take the heat too. maybe if the archway is large enough, you could make it a bit smaller to make the wall longer?

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Old 10-28-2008, 02:05 AM   #19
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@bjbatlanta - The floor will be to code once I put in the hearth pad, that's not a problem. I'm just hazy as to how to go about rebuilding the wall. You say I can get load bearing metal studs. Okay, I'll look for those. Would they have those at a standard home-improvement center? Also, how would I support the structure while I remove the wooden studs? Do I have to use a jack or something? Or is that unnecessary?

@MdangermouseM - The castings do appear on both sides of the stove, but the other side of the wall is inside a closet, so I can't put it on that side of the chimney. As for the "left" side of the chimney, it would require me to re-route my gas furnace's return air duct down in the basement. As for "in front" of the chimney, the stove would be way out in the center of the room. As for perpendicular to the wall as you suggested, that might actually work. I'll have to look at that more carefully. I worry about slowing down the "draft" in the chimney, though, and I was really hoping to go straight in (perpendicular would require a 90 degree elbow in the stove pipe followed immediately by a 90 degree tee up into the chimney). Trust me, I'm pretty sure this is where I want it and it's almost there. I think if I can get it about 6 inches closer it will be great. I'm not worried if the pad extends part way into the hallway, but just not the full 18 inches. I have a plan for a very "low profile" hearth pad so people won't stub their toes on it as they walk past. I like your idea of modifying the archway to extend the wall slightly if I have to. The chimney is plaster/lath over brick. I'm not sure yet if the brick was painted before being plastered, but we'll find out soon enough. I'm planning on most likely leaving it exposed brick or covering in durock if we decide it's too ugly or doesn't look right. No, I think we should be able to leave a 6 inch clearance around the back and pipe side. After all, we want some circulation around it so it can heat the room. Now, in your first post you mention a half brick or full brick wall. Could you please elaborate on that part?

Thank you for your responses! Anyone that can offer help on this, it is much appreciated! You wouldn't believe the time I've spent trying to figure this out. If you're in the Duluth, MN area, I'm definitely willing to pay to have this done. I can only hope. I've already tried the "yellow pages" route and can't seem to find competent help. Not surprising in this town, lol. So, thanks a million!
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Old 10-28-2008, 08:16 AM   #20
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i'll just hop on my private jet and come there and help, no problems..... =o)

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Old 10-28-2008, 08:52 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cart0181 View Post
You say I can get load bearing metal studs. Okay, I'll look for those. Would they have those at a standard home-improvement center? Also, how would I support the structure while I remove the wooden studs? Do I have to use a jack or something? Or is that unnecessary?
You won't find them at home centers. You'd need to go to a drywall and steel stud specialty supplier...Just about any average city has one or two to service commercial construction needs.

Personally, I don't think that replacement of wall framing with steel studs is the way to go for most DIYers unless you have some very compentent assistance. To answer your "how do I support..." question, a temporary wall is normally built a couple feet away from the bearing wall to be removed/replaced, on either side of it. That wall will support the floor/roof above if done correctly.

I wish I could offer a solution other than the addition of refractory firebrick with refractory mortar to the wall, but I can't.
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Old 10-28-2008, 09:02 AM   #22
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Combustible ----> Non-Combustible Wall


mornin' kc! this is not that big of a problem, and there are lots of options to use. makes it much easier. =o)

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Old 10-28-2008, 10:34 AM   #23
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Again, a drywall supply will have or can order the appropriate gauge studs (probably 16 ga.) As KC pointed out this may be a bit more than you want to take on as a DIY'er. Temporary support walls, are a MUST. You won't cut heavy gauge studs with tin snips.....you'll need a cutoff saw of some sort. Self tapping screws to hang the durock. Have you contacted your local building inspector or , even better, fire marshall for input?? They can tell you exactly what's required. If you're going to the extent you're considering, you should permit the job anyway. If for no other reason, to cover yourself from liability on down the line when you sell.
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Old 10-28-2008, 10:40 AM   #24
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@MdangermouseM-- I like your idea of modifying the archway to extend the wall slightly if I have to.
i meant to say if they go this route, there will be no need for the support wall, however, you all know my views on pulling a permit and having it inspected properly!

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Last edited by DangerMouse; 10-28-2008 at 10:50 AM.
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Old 05-27-2009, 02:39 PM   #25
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The flue pipe clearances needs to be considered also. The GA Fire Resistance Design Manual has a lot of valuable information.
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Old 05-29-2009, 04:56 AM   #26
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Combustible ----> Non-Combustible Wall


refractory firebrick with refractory mortar is the only soultion.

wall can be supported by normal supporting soultions

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