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Old 03-28-2010, 10:55 PM   #1
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Circular saw?


Hey y'all-

In my 100 year old house, the headers (if you want to call them that) over any door/window are done improperly as far as current code requirements dictate. Therein, I need to redo them as I replace existing exterior windows, doors, etc. Often, this requires the need to cut the existing cripple studs shorter to accommodate the new headers.

I would like to mark the cripples and then make cuts all the way through them to the sheathing with a circular saw. Problem is, neither my saw or any other that I've researched has a blade depth that can do this. Best that I've been able to do in the past is make the cuts with my circular saw and then follow it (carefully) with a demo saw. While this works, it requires a second cut and as many of you know in advance, it is quite hard to make a nice plumb cut with the reciprocating saw.

As a DIYer, I can actually get pretty good, square cuts in the balance of the cripples using the recip saw (I have nothing but time). Even with a bit of slop, I can still shim the rear of the cripple near the sheathing (i.e. where the cut can depart from plumb). But, how do the pros handle this? And in the end, is there a circular saw that accommodates blades that are large enough to cut to a depth of 3-1/2" (or in my case with the old-growth boards used in my 100+ year old house, 3-5/8")?

Thanks in advance all you good people!
Jimmy

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Old 03-29-2010, 12:53 AM   #2
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Circular saw?


The only Circ saw I know that would do it is the bigfoot 10 1/4 inch saw or if you have a skil wormdrive saw you can buy the bigfoot conversion and convert the worm drive to the big foot 10 1/4, A bit pricey though. I would'nt recomend cutting through 2x's in one pass that are loaded in a wall, The stud most likely will bind the blade when cut straight through and send you for a ride, especially with a big saw like that. When I'm cutting an opening in an existing wall for a window or door or in your case replacing a header i would use the tool of tools, yep old faithful the sawzall, I'm like a surgeon with mine,lol. What I do is mark the stud all the way around and get a med. wood blade and turn the blade around in the saw, this allows you to get closer to the back of the stud while keeping the saw straighter and not cutting on an angle going in. I don't know if I explained that good enough but just turn the blade around and you'll see what I mean. Takes some practice but it's not that hard to get a straight cut.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Big-Foot-BF-KITS...item5885842a7d


Last edited by James Con; 03-29-2010 at 01:09 AM. Reason: added web site
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Old 03-29-2010, 01:13 AM   #3
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Circular saw?


Thanks, james!

As I am cutting structural members, yes, I understand your concern! I shore up the wall prior to removing the 2x4's. But the primary question was about the type of saw that would allow removal of the entire 2x4 cripple.

Jimmy
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Old 03-29-2010, 01:28 AM   #4
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Circular saw?


I had no doubt you were gonna shore up the wall, That wasn't my concern. My concern was the saw blade binding when cut straight through and creating a wedge affect and binding the blade.If ya know what I mean, If not hopefully you won't experience it. Been there done that. That's all.
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Old 03-29-2010, 09:33 AM   #5
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Circular saw?


Milwaukee and Makita both make 10 inch saws that will cut a 2 x 4 on edge. (or a 4 x 4)
Maybe a local rental shop has one, or try Ebay for a used one.
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