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WillK 02-08-2011 07:11 PM

Circular blade for cutting hardwood?
 
Just wondering if anyone can give a quick tip on what is good and what isn't so good in a blade for cutting hardwood... On my miter box, I just burned up my 10" blade cutting up hardwood floor into pieces short enough to put in the garbage, not sure if the hardwood did it or if the blade was just worn since it's the same one I got with the saw. Yeah, it's a basic Ryobi saw.

<*(((>< 02-08-2011 08:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WillK (Post 587268)
Just wondering if anyone can give a quick tip on what is good and what isn't so good in a blade for cutting hardwood... On my miter box, I just burned up my 10" blade cutting up hardwood floor into pieces short enough to put in the garbage, not sure if the hardwood did it or if the blade was just worn since it's the same one I got with the saw. Yeah, it's a basic Ryobi saw.

Was the flooring actual wood or laminate/composite? If it was laminate/composite, then I would recommend getting a finish 80T blade for a table saw and use that. When I did my composite wood flooring I tried the finish blade in my miter saw and found that it really heated the blade and caused some burning on the cuts. I found using the table saw with the same blade eliminated the blade coming in contact with too much of the composite surface at one time. Meaning that a table saw is only engaging very little of the material at one time due to the piece being fed flat into the blade, whereas cutting with the miter saw the blade is brought down onto the face of the composite, and is engaging a wide cut of the composite. Hope I'm being clear enough. Those are just my experiences, others might have some other suggestions.

Daniel Holzman 02-08-2011 08:53 PM

There are a lot of good carbide tipped saw blades out there, many can be purchased relatively inexpensively at a big box store. I have a Freud that has worked well. Make sure you get a crosscutting blade for a miter saw, or at least a combination blade, a rip blade will not work well. The more teeth the finer the cut, but if cost is the main driver, and you do not need a fine cut, a 32 tooth blade is fine.

WillK 02-08-2011 10:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by <*(((>< (Post 587331)
Was the flooring actual wood or laminate/composite? If it was laminate/composite, then I would recommend getting a finish 80T blade for a table saw and use that. When I did my composite wood flooring I tried the finish blade in my miter saw and found that it really heated the blade and caused some burning on the cuts. I found using the table saw with the same blade eliminated the blade coming in contact with too much of the composite surface at one time. Meaning that a table saw is only engaging very little of the material at one time due to the piece being fed flat into the blade, whereas cutting with the miter saw the blade is brought down onto the face of the composite, and is engaging a wide cut of the composite. Hope I'm being clear enough. Those are just my experiences, others might have some other suggestions.

Actual wood... In fact, what I was cutting when I burned up my old blade was actually the 1x10 subfloor layer that was under the finished hardwood. Or at least they were 1x10 before they split while I was tearing them out.

I ended up getting a Freud 40 tooth blade.

And I think I get what you're getting at... come to think of it, I was burning up a DeWalt blade in my circular saw too, and usually you'd be contacting a similar smaller area with a circular saw, but I was plunging (if that's the right term) since I was using at the time to cut the area I needed to remove.

fungku 02-09-2011 01:14 AM

those freud diablo blades are thin kerf and have a low-friction coating. they have pretty good carbide teeth too.

For circular saw blades that's pretty much all I use. I buy them in packs. They are not expensive. It's good bang for the buck.


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