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Cinder block pier and wooden beam cabin foundation I need help

17K views 13 replies 6 participants last post by  md2lgyk 
#1 · (Edited)
Hello all

I am a newbie (still green) too this site and the carpentry world.
I am in the process of building me a cabin/house. It will be built in a very remote area of West Virginia. For building codes to my knowledge they are none. I do have to purchase a building permit so it can be assessed for my property taxes they say. I am wondering how the best way to connect the wood beam (made up of 4-2x8 laminated with liquid nail and fasteners then soaked with Thompson water sealant) connect to the cender block piers. If I miss used terms in anyway please correct me for I am new I also have the website for the plan we are buying i also need to add a utility /laundry room on it.any other advice on it will be truly appreciated
The cabin plan. http://www.thehouseplanshop.com/2237/plan-detail/027h-0001.php
 
#2 · (Edited)
I looked at the plan. Putting something like that on cinder block piers is just insane.

If you have a full set of plans, they should tell you how to attach the beam. But I'm guessing they will also say the beam should be pressure treated lumber - Thompsons Water Seal is garbage. If you're as inexperienced as you say, do you even know how to read a set of plans?

I'm going to give you some advice based on personal experience; please don't be offended. I also live in WV (Jefferson County). My wife and I built our log home almost entirely by ourselves (everything but metal roof, foundation, and HVAC). We had done remodeling and renovations on several previous homes so were not, by any stretch, beginners. Believe me, you have no idea what you're getting into. First, how do you intend to finance this project? Without a licensed general contractor, you'll never get a loan. Second, just because there are no building codes (which I frankly don't believe), things still have to be done correctly and safely Do you know anything about framing, plumbing, wiring, roofing, drywall, tiling, insulating, properly flashing and installing windows, etc., etc.? Third, don't believe a thing you see on those home improvement shows. Construction done by amateurs takes a lot longer than they imply - I am retired and our house took us over three years. If you have a job, it'll take you much longer. Fourth, working with power tools is dangerous if you don't know what you're doing. Fifth, have you considered how you're going to get electrical power, water, and sewer? My well alone cost over $12,000. That was 1/4 the cost of the log home kit.

I fully understand your dream of building your own home. After all, I have done it. But the reality is that you'll be in way over your head. From your post, it sounds like you already are.
 
#3 ·
Also, only a 8" wide main beam?:eek: That's sounds way under sized.
Any framing closer then 18" to the grade needs to be pressure treated.

Trying to make since of why you would buy those plans if your going to be adding more rooms.
I would just take those pictures and have someone else draw up a new set of plans for you that will meet your real needs.
 
#4 ·
Thank u for ur advice as finance I have set aside 70k
For this project.to get it under roof. As main beam being pressure treated I did not know. I thought the pressure treated wood contained water content it terms wood shrieked as it dried. As I said I am new. As for pier and beam that is just something I want. I have a house with a block stem wall. I am trying to revert back to the older houses that where built. The beam size u stated will that be the perimeter beam size too
 
#11 ·
So, assuming you could get under roof for $70K, then what? How do you plan to finish it? You'll need at least that much again, maybe more. My kitchen appliances and cabinets alone were $15K. And you'll never be able to get any kind of loan on an unfinished house since you're not a licensed contractor.

You didn't answer my earlier question about electric, water, and sewer. Those should be taken care of before even thinking of starting on the house. We had all those done first, allowing us to live in our RV on the property during construction.
 
#5 ·
my opinions.
1. Don't use blocks. Used concrete filled tubes. Install an anchor bolt in them to fasten the beam.
2. Forget the Thompsons. That stuff is junk and will do nothing for you. If it is close to the ground use pressure treated wood. If insects are an issue in your area look into the blue wood.
 
#6 ·
Thanks joed I talk to a general contractor and he has advised me to scrap the pier and beam and go with a block perimeter. I really wish the pier and beam would have been a better solution I thank everyone for their advice. If you all don't mind I will need some advice later on down the road. Is $2. Block reasonable for block laying.
 
#7 ·
Asking any question on here about pricing does not end well here.
Way to many factors to do pricing on any site over the net.
Call around and get more local prices if you want to know if that's fair.
And get referances!! Go look at his other jobs.
If the foundations not done right the rest of the house is screwed.
 
#12 ·
Sorry for the term cinder blocks should have used foundation block or concrete block my bad. I clearly came to the wrong site for guidance and to gain more knowledge of the building trade. I did not know Thompson water seal was that bad so thanks for learning me that
 
#13 ·
Md2 they sewer has been installed(septic tank leach bed if that is the write term)the contractor done all the sewyer.the soil has been checked for hardness for the foundation a licensed electrician took the prints and figured In all the electrical engineering part of it. The water is supplied by a well that has been drilled to 244 ft. As appliances I don't know about them yet. It is a cabin/ house maybe stayed in two weeks out of a year. The reason I was interested in pier and beam was to give it an older look
 
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